The Big Mountaineering, alpinism, ski touring and climbing thread

Caporegime
Joined
18 Oct 2002
Posts
32,650
Wondering if there is much interest in such a thread? I know most of you live in the English flat lands but some of you might climb and others in Scotland may do some good ascents, others may make trips abroad, etc.

I guess people can discuss trips, equipment, techniques, etc.
 
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I will start off we a quick summary of a great ski tour I did Saturday attempting Mount Thielsen in the central Oregon cascades. Known as the Matterhorn of the cascades, the top spire is a mix of class 4 scramble and class 5 climbing on poor volcanic rock. The tru summit wasntbreally an objective being winter, we were more intereted in skiing the 40 degree slopes in perfect spring corn. Except there was 1.5ft of fresh which was surprising given the forecast 1.5 inches. Weather started cloudy, went super sunny, but when we left the tree line it clouded over. At 8900 feet whiteout conditions with gale force winds forced our descent. The heavy fresh snow and wind meant we kept closer to the ridge climbers left - the snow seemed stable but there was a lot, an icy base, and strong wind deposition on a 35-40 degree slope. In the whiteout I was spooked by the huge open slope. Stability tests were ok but I had to follow my gut. Maws me worry because if it was sunny I ay have ventured a Ross the face it increased confidence. Descent was sketchy in zero visibility while I was trying to assess avalanche triggers. Soft slab on an unconsolidated 2foot layer ontop of ice.

3900 feet of ascent over 4 miles in 6 hours, about 3h slower than expect due to breaking trail through the deep fresh. 90 minutes back to the car.


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No replies but I will try once more quickly.

Climbed 8780ft Diamond Peak in Oregon on Saturday via the SW ridge with an epic ski descent into the SW bowls on perfect spring corn snow.
had to leave the car at 3900ft due to snow blocking the road. Hike in was about 5.5 miles, 5000ft. Snow was a little soft going up but not too bad, the top 1000ft was hard and icy requiring ski crampons. Stiff breeze at the top but not too bad, temps above freezing, crazy. Chilled on the north face for an hour letting the sun do its work softening the SW bowl.
had lunch with this as a view:

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Ski down was amazing, 1-2inches of corn on a hard base:
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A long slog back to the car through thigh deep wet unconsolidated mushy snow.
 
Nice to see some replies and interest, will post at weekends adventures.

With another fine weekend forecast I planned a 2 day 2 mountain trip- mount McLoughlin Saturday, stay in Klamath falls and mount Scott sunday.

I left Eugene, OR a little later than planned after 5am due to a rough night. As daylight came I was annoyed to see the sun hidden behind a low veil of clouds. I wondered what alternatives would be worth considering, especially as I was still feeling a little sick. decided to push on to Medford anyway and see how the day goes. A slow journey due to additional unplanned toilet stops (I guess it was the dodgy Thai food the night before...). I pull into the parking lot at the snow park after 9 and was surprised at the lack of snow, the warmth and the clouds,but at least it was bright and dry.

I set forth through the forest on more or less continuous snow, but quite thin and littered with debris. Followed the PCT for 20 minutes before deciding to head in a more direct route to the summit ridge at 7000ft. Weather got brighter but clouds surrounded the summit. But as I climbed I seems to follow a pool of sun. Firm snow under. Few inches of soft wet snow meant for relatively easy skinning but a little slide slip on the steep slopes towards the summit.

Arrived on the summit above a sea of* clouds, amazing experience that I have rarely experienced but often seen in photos.* Was almost windless on the summit and quite warm, had lunch with a older guy who had hiked up, the only person I saw all day.

Descent was down the SE bowl and avalanche path, excellent corn snow on a perfect esy angle. Once in the trees the snow rapidly got worse and it the return to the car was surprisingly tough, a long shallow traverse with patchy snow. At one point I got trapped in a lava flow which proved a pain in the butt to hike out of, walking on the snow I sank to my thighs while walking on the loose lava blocks was treacherous. Skied direct to the road after the lava and hiked 0.75 miles back to the lot. If I was too do it again I would ignore trying to traverse to the car and try and ski straight to the road and hike back.



4700ft 6 miles to the summit, a little over 4 hours to the top- was going slow hoping the wether would prove which it did, and didn't want to push myself after feeling sick.


Summit view

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NE bowl, pitty such a long way back to the front of the mountain.
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The descent! Well over 3000ft of corn from the top
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Trapped in a lava field
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After my successful mount McLoughlin expedition upon return to the car I sat sunbathing enjoying the sun. I was pretty exhausted after the long climb and lumbering through the forest back to the car but decided I would keep with my plan and stay in Klamath Falls Saturday night with a plan to hit Mt Scott Sunday on the way home.

I stayed in a terrible motel (econo lodge, really dirty, not recommended). I left Sunday later than planned after getting little sleep due to the broken toilet flushing every 30 minutes, the incessant humm of some generator or AC unit next to my room, noisy neighbors, traffic, a fire alarm at 2am and proximal gunfire noises at 3am...


On the drive to mount Scott I had to stop for fuel, stop for provisions, and stop to buy duck tape to fix a broken ski pole. Getting to the right forest roads from highway 97 proved difficult because many of them led to private property ( I got chased away by a pack of angry dogs at 1 point). As I got close large snow drifts appeared, my forester crawled over the first few but then I seemed to reach consistent snow cover at 4850ft, nearly 6 miles and* over 4000ft from the summit. By this point it was 9:45 and being tired I decided I probably wouldn't summit but should enjoy a mellow tour in the warm spring sun and the quite pine forests.

I skinned along some forest roads in the direction of mount Scott, very gently climbing, pleasant but a little hot. After 3.5 miles and 1400ft I arrived at the top of the forest roads where I had originally planned to make my way up the SE ridge towards the summit. By this point I was tied with sore feet from the distance covered and the big climb the day before.* However, since i had now arrived at the start of the climb i was motivated to give it a good shot, with less than 3000ft and less than 3 miles to the summit form this point. There were already some tracks which I followed. The heat and sun was quite intense being so late in the day which made for an uncompfortable climb. Once I got within 1500ft of the summit I knew I had to push on in order to get the views of crater lake. After some pushing I was well rewarded with fantastic views of a cloud filled lake. I finished at the 2nd (southern) summit without the watch tower as the traverse would add unnecessary extra time which I would have to double back on for the descent, all for an extra 20-30ft ascent.

Temperatures were very mild and pleasant and I could have spent hours looking at the lake but it was getting late (I summited at about 1.15) and snow deteriorating in the sun. A large group of skiers were at the watch tower and traversed back to me before descending.

The descent back to the forest roads was fun, fast, smooth and very enjoyable. I kept to the SE ridge like the other skiers, the obvious tree free bowl and avalanche path just didn't seem a wise line but was tempting. I think a little more freeze-thaw is needed, and an earlier start. A very long slog was required to cover the 3.5 miles back to the car along mostly flat roads with deep wet heavy snow. Still, a fantastic journey.


About 4200ft and 6.5 miles to the summit, about 3.5 hours up which surprised be considering exhaustion and the heat. Getting back to the forest roads took 20 minutes but 70 minutes needed to get back to the car along the flat.

The objective. Originally i was going to ski the avy path but snow conditions dictated staying to the SE ridge lookers and climbers left, just on the skyline.
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Ascent towards the summit. The UN was really working the snow.
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The reward, the view
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The true summit and watch tower
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More crater lake
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Sadly I'm busy this weekend, perfect weather forecast and a couple of feet of fresh powder on north faces...

Summer arrives next week :( but this may mean easier access gets easier as roads melt out
 
You've got a season pass, no? You don't need to be that good a skier to tour on the plateau, my turns aren't beautiful.

Aye, best not to take it to it's logical conclusion, that any form of assistance detracts from the "experience" e.g. you can perhaps only claim a proper ascent if cobbled your own boots too.

I'm content to take whatever uplift is available, which I did this afternoon, using the funicular and the Ptarmigan T on my way over to Macdui (still a ~5hr round trip). Not even the slightest breeze today, scorchio!

Great pics, Scotland when it is good is an equal to anywhere. Glad the mountains got some cover in April.
 
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