Ooo Crystal Xbox, Vince finds all the nice stuff.
I do try

Ooo Crystal Xbox, Vince finds all the nice stuff.
Thank you that's really useful guidance.
So basically it's convenience vs cost; a heat gun is just going to be much easier than the chopping apart method, but also more expensive. I need to decide if it's worth it.
I have found a few sellers with '60/40/Tin/Lead', or similar. One has a skull branding with '63/37'. Is this OK, or do I need to keep looking?
EDIT: after botching up the 2 DS4's boards I then tried my attention on a 3 year old Dualsense with stick drift and again struggled with removing the solder. Tried to capture the stick I did remove but it looks like the middle of the 3-pins for the left sensor now has a burnt pad (for want of better term) and so is this board a lost concern?
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Thank you & much appreciated. I will definitely watch it.
I've managed to pick up a cheap, used Dualshock 4 so now have two V4's en-route (one new, one used), my original 2014 V1 will battery issues, a Dualsense with the above board, another 3 year old Dualsense which is already getting loose on the right stick (blame Division 2 for this) and an old drifting Xbox One controller. So lots to work with as I never threw away old Playstation's controllers. I also have the case/shell and internals for the two V4 Dualshocks I mucked up. So real potential if I can learn this.
Nice repair.
That was my second Xbox One X after my first one died 18-months in. Microsoft back then did make some wonderful special edition consoles. I also had the Halo Reach 360 with the two custom noises for start-up and shutdown. Also that Gears 5 Xbox One X had one of the nicest, if not the nicest special edition controllers too - which if I remember they sold separately too.
Your hot air takes them off so much quickerthan the cheap 858d, although that could just be a skill issue on my part.
So any thoughts on this Yihua 948-I option?
Yea, understood.
There's also a simple combined soldering gun & sucker Yihua sell for £35 but I'm not sure that's going to work as well. I still haven't been able to find that knack for using a solder sucker and breaking those first two Dualshock 4 boards has made me evaluate options. I know I've got to spend something to upgrade my soldering iron and I suppose the budget heat guns and solder irons are cheap enough that you could run them in tandem with this unit as a desoldering gun only, but again might be getting even sillier for my usecase.
I found one channel on Youtube (Retro Computing Reboot) who did a review of the unit 6-months in, working on old 8-bit computers. Claimed to have used it for 3-4 hours a week, but cruicially mentions that it does the one job it's meant to do very well of removing the solder. Although technically his review is on the non-I version without the soldering gun.
I did notice there's a sale tomorrow, so will see if anything comes down in price and make a decision then. Again thank you for the guidance.
EDIT: Just found Yihua sell the 948 desoldering gun for £115 atm. This is the non-2-in-1 version. So I would just need a competent soldering iron to go with it.
Yep I saw it linked earlier in the thread.
So I'm leaning towards your soldering iron plus the Yihua 948 (non-all-in-one) for £115. Total just over £140. Not sure the soldering iron will get discounted for the spring sale but I can wait for a few hours.
I've ordered a small amount (50g) of 60/40 solder from eBay too. So I might be getting to the point of competent tools. Whether me as the operator can get to that level is another thing..
I've probably gone wrong but I went with this because I recognised the brand as the Duratool PCB holder I recently purchased is actually quite well made and packaged. And wasn't as cheap as some of the others. I did find that Weller roll like yours at £27 but it's way too much for me.
Good to hear I didn't go totally wrong. Beyond using solder before de-soldering I've still actually got to get to the bit where I can actually solder in new components.
I did find some examples where the labeling looked old; like this and this too. So it sounds like age is potentially a good thing if buying 60/40 solder, but I didn't know if incorrect storage might be an issue.
Good to know. Yep very expensive, but large amounts.
+1 for old stuff still seems to work fine. My dad has an old reel of 60/40, no idea who made it, labels are long gone, probably at least 20 years old, works fine.
I use "newer" stuff, either a reel of 60/40 kester (can't remember exactly what flux is in that, would have to look) that is older (at least 10 years), still fine or a 63/37 kester 44 core, that's a couple of years old and still good.
Way too much solder for me, it will probably out last me, but I was fed up scratching around with whatever random solder you could find sellers selling in smaller amounts.