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- 10 Oct 2019
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- 15
This is brilliant! Always wanted to do this, I'm going to have to keep an eye out for a Van now
VW T5.1 4x4 Off-grid Camper Conversion - Eastern Europe Road Trip Content
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Day 14
Out of bed early we headed north back up the Transfagarasan to have a quick walk around the dam before the crowds became too heavy, there seemed to be a slight fire issue with some driftwood which provided a bit of entertainment whilst it was dealt with. It’s hard to get the sheer scale of this place on camera, awe inspiring when you look down to the base from the very top. The sun was shining nicely behind Prometheus, stood on top of the rocks.
Escaping the now growing number of tourists we left the Carpathian Mountains and headed south towards Constanta on the black sea. This was a fairly long journey made worse with road closures that forced us through the centre of Bucharest, something I would rather have avoided but it saved a lot of time sitting in stationary traffic, since we were there we took a detour past the People's Palace.
We arrived in Constanta quite late in the afternoon so picked what was supposed to be a rough camp spot east of the city towards the Danube Delta on a "quiet" beach.
The approach to the beach wasn’t great, terrible road surface and a large petrochemical plant for scenery. The road gave way to a track and the sea eventually came into view.
Upon arrival we ascertained it was less "free" than advertised after arriving at a barrier. A jovial exchange in Romanian with the old guy selling tickets at RON10 for the night to park virtually in the sea, it was a nice spot with a bar in a tent serving cheap draught beer and not too crowded so we decided to stay.
Out of bed early we headed north back up the Transfagarasan to have a quick walk around the dam before the crowds became too heavy, there seemed to be a slight fire issue with some driftwood which provided a bit of entertainment whilst it was dealt with. It’s hard to get the sheer scale of this place on camera, awe inspiring when you look down to the base from the very top. The sun was shining nicely behind Prometheus, stood on top of the rocks.
Escaping the now growing number of tourists we left the Carpathian Mountains and headed south towards Constanta on the black sea. This was a fairly long journey made worse with road closures that forced us through the centre of Bucharest, something I would rather have avoided but it saved a lot of time sitting in stationary traffic, since we were there we took a detour past the People's Palace.
We arrived in Constanta quite late in the afternoon so picked what was supposed to be a rough camp spot east of the city towards the Danube Delta on a "quiet" beach.
The approach to the beach wasn’t great, terrible road surface and a large petrochemical plant for scenery. The road gave way to a track and the sea eventually came into view.
Upon arrival we ascertained it was less "free" than advertised after arriving at a barrier. A jovial exchange in Romanian with the old guy selling tickets at RON10 for the night to park virtually in the sea, it was a nice spot with a bar in a tent serving cheap draught beer and not too crowded so we decided to stay.
Day 15
We woke up early and had a quick dip in the sea before showering off outside the van, we then headed down the coast towards Vama Veche, the alternative "party resort" on the Romanian Black Sea coast.
Having emailed the only campsite local to the resort and being told it was full I decided to hedge our bets and turn up anyway to find that there was plenty of space!
After freshening up we headed down to the beach, lined by bars and restaurants operating out of shacks and temporary buildings, and enjoyed a few afternoon beers and more fresh fish. At some stage the afternoon turned into night and we found ourselves rather merry hopping between bars and drinking on the warm beach before returning to the van around 4am, kebab in hand.
We woke up early and had a quick dip in the sea before showering off outside the van, we then headed down the coast towards Vama Veche, the alternative "party resort" on the Romanian Black Sea coast.
Having emailed the only campsite local to the resort and being told it was full I decided to hedge our bets and turn up anyway to find that there was plenty of space!
After freshening up we headed down to the beach, lined by bars and restaurants operating out of shacks and temporary buildings, and enjoyed a few afternoon beers and more fresh fish. At some stage the afternoon turned into night and we found ourselves rather merry hopping between bars and drinking on the warm beach before returning to the van around 4am, kebab in hand.
Day 16
Feeling a little worse for wear we dragged ourselves out the van at midday for a cold shower, all the hot water was gone but as it was 40deg this wasn't much of an issue, and made our way to the beach to find some food and non-alcoholic refreshments along with a sneaky walk across the border on foot.
Eventually feeling something close to human we made the short drive over the Bulgarian border and explored the coast north of Krapets for a free parking spot on the beach. It turned out the weekend we had chosen was a national holiday for the Romanians and space was a premium.
As we turned around a friendly Romanian offered to move his car so we could park beside them on the dunes. Grateful for the offer we drove into the space and setup then spent the afternoon/evening chatting, sharing beers and swimming in the sea before being lulled to sleep by the sound of the ocean. I wish we had spent an extra day here but we needed supplies of food and drinking water so we had to move on.
Feeling a little worse for wear we dragged ourselves out the van at midday for a cold shower, all the hot water was gone but as it was 40deg this wasn't much of an issue, and made our way to the beach to find some food and non-alcoholic refreshments along with a sneaky walk across the border on foot.
Eventually feeling something close to human we made the short drive over the Bulgarian border and explored the coast north of Krapets for a free parking spot on the beach. It turned out the weekend we had chosen was a national holiday for the Romanians and space was a premium.
As we turned around a friendly Romanian offered to move his car so we could park beside them on the dunes. Grateful for the offer we drove into the space and setup then spent the afternoon/evening chatting, sharing beers and swimming in the sea before being lulled to sleep by the sound of the ocean. I wish we had spent an extra day here but we needed supplies of food and drinking water so we had to move on.
Day 17
Moving down the coast we headed for Varna, we'd been told about a museum of Soviet Era vehicles in Varna the night before by our new Romanian friend which we managed to find on google maps and we wanted to check out. The "Monument of Bulgarian Soviet Friendship" on the edge of the city was also on our Radar and was our first destination.
We took a leisurely drive down towards the city, mostly because there seemed to be a policeman with a speed trap around every corner, eventually arriving at the foot of the monument we drove up the twisty narrow road to the top. An interesting place, seemingly quite popular with the locals and tourists, we had a good look round and grabbed some photos before heading off again in the direction of the museum.
The museum, it turns out, was located inside a shopping centre that only had underground parking just too low to fit the van inside and no outside parking so we gave up and headed west towards the centre of Bulgaria, taking the time to fill up from a large name petrol station.
Our next destination was partly the reason we had decided to visit Bulgaria, the Buzludzha monument or UFO as it's often known. As we headed west Bulgaria got steadily less populated and the infrastructure less "western". We stumbled across a vineyard and popped in to buy some wine, an interesting experience, we left with cheap wine and were watched off the property by security.
It was approaching sunset as we drove the decaying and winding road 4600 feet toward the summit and monument, the temperature slowly dropped as we climbed and the wind grew as we eventually reached the peak and parked beneath the hulking monument. We got out and explored whilst scouting for a camping spot, deciding that the carpark for the monument would be fine. It was odd to think that the very cobbles we were currently sleeping above had once supported the feet of several socialist dictators. Some history on the monument can be found here :- http://www.buzludzha-monument.com/history
Moving down the coast we headed for Varna, we'd been told about a museum of Soviet Era vehicles in Varna the night before by our new Romanian friend which we managed to find on google maps and we wanted to check out. The "Monument of Bulgarian Soviet Friendship" on the edge of the city was also on our Radar and was our first destination.
We took a leisurely drive down towards the city, mostly because there seemed to be a policeman with a speed trap around every corner, eventually arriving at the foot of the monument we drove up the twisty narrow road to the top. An interesting place, seemingly quite popular with the locals and tourists, we had a good look round and grabbed some photos before heading off again in the direction of the museum.
The museum, it turns out, was located inside a shopping centre that only had underground parking just too low to fit the van inside and no outside parking so we gave up and headed west towards the centre of Bulgaria, taking the time to fill up from a large name petrol station.
Our next destination was partly the reason we had decided to visit Bulgaria, the Buzludzha monument or UFO as it's often known. As we headed west Bulgaria got steadily less populated and the infrastructure less "western". We stumbled across a vineyard and popped in to buy some wine, an interesting experience, we left with cheap wine and were watched off the property by security.
It was approaching sunset as we drove the decaying and winding road 4600 feet toward the summit and monument, the temperature slowly dropped as we climbed and the wind grew as we eventually reached the peak and parked beneath the hulking monument. We got out and explored whilst scouting for a camping spot, deciding that the carpark for the monument would be fine. It was odd to think that the very cobbles we were currently sleeping above had once supported the feet of several socialist dictators. Some history on the monument can be found here :- http://www.buzludzha-monument.com/history
Soldato
Simply awesome.
Thank you for sharing.
Thank you for sharing.
Currently planning a trip to start in a few weeks and I noticed the account of the last trip wasn't complete so thought I'd finish it for anyone that was following along.
The following morning, after exploring Buzludzha for a second time, we made our way up the valley towards Shipka Monument. We parked and climbed the steps past the soviet era reliefs at the bottom to the peak where a sign instructed us that we should not take food, drink, dogs or guns into the monument, something I haven't seen at a National Trust property! The view from the top was great.
Driving further north we stopped at the "Ethno Village", an open air living museum of Bulgarian folk. A very interesting place to wander through and explore.
After filling up on local cuisine we headed north towards the border, as fast as the roads would allow, which isn't that fast. Especially when you need to slow down for a village every 10km. We stopped at a random village to grab a coffee and some cold drinks, pulling up out front of the old "Communist" square and shops that every village in the area seemed to still have, to be instantly confronted by a semi drunk local trying to sell us a large knife. At least I assume that was his intention as he mumbled something at me in Bulgarian and waved the knife about.
Pressing we aimed for the border stopping short and camping for the night in the carpark of a hotel on the banks of the Danube in the town of Belene. A town with an interesting history of communist concentration camps and failed Russian nuclear power plant projects.
On our approach to town we decided to re-route as the road suggested was being rebuilt, although still open if you were happy to drive at 5mph. As we approached some half built, abandoned buildings I spotted a guy standing beside the road looking fairly purposeful, a private security guy complete with large weapon hanging round his neck, he seemed fairly intent we shouldn't be driving down the road we intended and not wanting to test his resolve we decided to chance the half "rebuilt" road alternative.
We eventually arrived at the hotel car park to discover there seemed to be a large wedding going on of what could be mistaken for local gangsters. After a quick meal and a beer we retired to the van only to be awoken several times from shouting, arguments and rubbish being dumped in the bin. Not a great nights sleep, probably the worst of the trip. Great view of the Danube and Belene Island, though.
The following morning, after exploring Buzludzha for a second time, we made our way up the valley towards Shipka Monument. We parked and climbed the steps past the soviet era reliefs at the bottom to the peak where a sign instructed us that we should not take food, drink, dogs or guns into the monument, something I haven't seen at a National Trust property! The view from the top was great.
Driving further north we stopped at the "Ethno Village", an open air living museum of Bulgarian folk. A very interesting place to wander through and explore.
After filling up on local cuisine we headed north towards the border, as fast as the roads would allow, which isn't that fast. Especially when you need to slow down for a village every 10km. We stopped at a random village to grab a coffee and some cold drinks, pulling up out front of the old "Communist" square and shops that every village in the area seemed to still have, to be instantly confronted by a semi drunk local trying to sell us a large knife. At least I assume that was his intention as he mumbled something at me in Bulgarian and waved the knife about.
Pressing we aimed for the border stopping short and camping for the night in the carpark of a hotel on the banks of the Danube in the town of Belene. A town with an interesting history of communist concentration camps and failed Russian nuclear power plant projects.
On our approach to town we decided to re-route as the road suggested was being rebuilt, although still open if you were happy to drive at 5mph. As we approached some half built, abandoned buildings I spotted a guy standing beside the road looking fairly purposeful, a private security guy complete with large weapon hanging round his neck, he seemed fairly intent we shouldn't be driving down the road we intended and not wanting to test his resolve we decided to chance the half "rebuilt" road alternative.
We eventually arrived at the hotel car park to discover there seemed to be a large wedding going on of what could be mistaken for local gangsters. After a quick meal and a beer we retired to the van only to be awoken several times from shouting, arguments and rubbish being dumped in the bin. Not a great nights sleep, probably the worst of the trip. Great view of the Danube and Belene Island, though.
Waking up early we paid for our meal and nights stay and headed to the border. Our crossing point was close to the hotel, one of the reasons we chose it alongside security of locked gates, but being a Sunday the border crossing and ferry were closed. Not that they had any signs to advertise this, just a lack of border police or other traffic. We decided to track west alongside the Danube aiming for the next crossing hoping it would be in operation, which it was.
Bulgarian border police had a good poke round the van, I think they were curious about the vehicle rather than the contents we were waved through to the ferry queue where we bought a ticket and boarded.
The ferry was uneventful and we made it through the Romianian border without problem, other than an indepth conversation of exactly where we had been, only to be stopped at a further gate where we were charged 7 Euro for "something" that nobody could explain but everyone had to pay. I didn't fancy an argument with the large guys operating the gate so paid up and drove off.
We headed towards the Transalpina road, and managed to find a very remote rough camping spot up an old "road" in front of an abandoned building, once part of a Ski resort said to be the last project ordered by Nicolae Ceauescu before the revolution. It was to host the upcoming Winter Olympics but due to fighting between developers and stakeholders it was never opened and is now a collection of eerie abandoned buildings beside a lake.
Our spot was very quiet and felt very remote, I don't think I've experienced dark or silence like it since working underground, however the moon soon came up from behind the trees and provided some illumination after the fire died down.
Bulgarian border police had a good poke round the van, I think they were curious about the vehicle rather than the contents we were waved through to the ferry queue where we bought a ticket and boarded.
The ferry was uneventful and we made it through the Romianian border without problem, other than an indepth conversation of exactly where we had been, only to be stopped at a further gate where we were charged 7 Euro for "something" that nobody could explain but everyone had to pay. I didn't fancy an argument with the large guys operating the gate so paid up and drove off.
We headed towards the Transalpina road, and managed to find a very remote rough camping spot up an old "road" in front of an abandoned building, once part of a Ski resort said to be the last project ordered by Nicolae Ceauescu before the revolution. It was to host the upcoming Winter Olympics but due to fighting between developers and stakeholders it was never opened and is now a collection of eerie abandoned buildings beside a lake.
Our spot was very quiet and felt very remote, I don't think I've experienced dark or silence like it since working underground, however the moon soon came up from behind the trees and provided some illumination after the fire died down.