Warning Notice from Mayhems "UV Clear Blue Dye"

[Mayhems]

It has come to our attraction thks to some of OCUK users that Phobya UV FLex lights and Mayhems "UV clear blue dye" may not play nice together.

We have ordered in some of Phobya products for testing and All so as a back up plan some new UV clear blue dyes (thats work at a different light spectrum). So we can get some testing done straight away.

We think that the Phobya UV flex lights are operating at a UV spectrum (un confirmed) that is damaging the UV Clear Blue dye because it has a wide spectrum of UV light that it is operating at. This is causing the UV clear Blue dye to fade at a extraordinary fast rate e.g 1 to 3 hours. In the last 3 years of selling our UV clear Blue dye we have never seen this before.

Even though we do test our dyes at multiple frequency, we do not test at frequency such as this as normally this type of UV is not used in such systems.

If you are having any problems with these two products please give us a few days to sort this problem out and come up with a solution.

We are working on this and endeavor to get a solution out as fast as possible but with in reasonable time limits.

Mick

 

[rjk]

keep us posted Mick

thanks for the update and your support for the forum members as usual

 

[michaelp]

that is a very fast rate indeed

 

[JeffyB]

This may have been what I experienced with your uv blue dropper. I was using a 50cm phobya high density uv flexlight. Thanks for the heads up mick

 

[craarc]

nice to hear you guys are up to speed with this and inform everyone of potential issues

spot on

 

[JeffyB]

If you need any more info about my loop don't hesitate to ask

 

[ince]

Thanks for the heads up.

 

[Mayhems]

Yeh were working on the problem and have been all day and will be tomorrow lol.

 

[Mayhems]

Oky some pre limb results

1) 1 Hour testing Under UV - B disco UV tube

A) Ultra pure water = no change
B) Ultra Pure + Biocide extreme 1 drop to 250mls of water (ph 6) = No change
C) Ultra Pure + Citric Acid = No change
D) X1 = No change
E) Ultra Pure + 1 drop of bleach = 1/2 the brightness it started out at (liquid turned tinned red in normal light)
F) Pastel UV White = No change
G) Ultra pure + Chlorine watered down - 1/2 the brightness it stated out at

2) UV - C @ 1 hour (had to turn off as it was over heating at 1 hour) will carry on two hour test once it has cooled down

1) ultra pure = UV blue has nearly all gone only trace amount left
2) X1 = UV Blue has 1/2 disappeared

3) 1 Hour testing under UV CCFL for 1 Hour (cannot remember who made then but ayed may know as he sent me them before)

A) Ultra pure water = no change
B) Ultra Pure + Biocide extreme 1 drop to 250mls of water (ph 6) = No change
C) Ultra Pure + Citric Acid = No change
D) X1 = No change
E) Ultra Pure + 1 drop of bleach = 1/4 the brightness it started out at (liquid turned tinned red in normal light)
F) Pastel UV White = No change


Will carry on testing.

 

[JeffyB]

Great work mick, good to see you on top of things.

 

[Mayhems]

Oky been at this all night.

Still not going to confirm this But so far the only thing that kills UV Clear blue dye is "UV - C"

From left to right samples 4 hour samples

1) Ultra Pure (UV-B)
2) Ultra Pure + biocide (UV-B)
3) X1 (UV-B)
4) Bleach (UV-B)
5) Ultra Pure (UV-C)
6) Customer sample direct out of bottle
7) Customer sample (taken in video)
8) Customer sample Sample 2

If you look carefully you will see No 5, 7 and 8 all look the same. This says to us that the UV light is emitting at UV C wave length (un confirmed). There for destroying the dye. We will do the same tests tomorrow with the phobya flex lights.

All though bleach and pH does have a slight issue in changing the colour of the dye it does not do it to such as drastic effect as seen then UV C is introduced to the samples.

Please Ref to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultraviolet_germicidal_irradiation

This still needs more work and we need to confirm what we are seeing. We all so need to check the phobya flex lights.

Now the bit that was most interesting for me in this test was we used 50% dye + 50% water on the UV-C sample when we tested UV with with 5 drops to 250ml of water is disappeared with in 30 min

(BTW that liquid on the left was clear before we started the testing after exposure to UV C its now orange - the same happened to the liquids we added bleach to but with bleach it kept some of its UV effect)

I don't know how were going to confirm these tests apart from test phobya leds lights and see what happens. and i don't know if Uni can do this as well or if they have the equipment to help us with these sorts of test. Normally they can just tell us whats in the water not what destroys the dyes.

Like i say until the phobya flex lights are here none of this means any thing just yet.

P.s Were the hell is my "PHD"

 

[Mayhems]

Right wipes brow. Been testing the Phobya Flex lights now for over 6 hours and checked the samples.

There has been no degradation in the UV aspect of the fluid Just so people under stand Phobya flex lights seem to work fine with Mayhems UV Blue dye. The dye how ever does not reflect back as much light as i expected it would and the liquid does not stand out as well as expected how ever Phobyas Flex light are not what is causing the dye to totally fade out.

So The only thing so far effecting the dye is Bleach and UV-C. We need to run more tests and await the results from the Uni. So we need to find out what else the user may have put in there system to cause this to happen.

 

[JeffyB]

I used distilled water, silver kill coil and the uv clear blue dropper. Rest of the loop was
primochill primoflex hose
ek en nickel blocks
d5's with ek xtops
TFC Compressions
Pa140.3+SR1-420

 

[Mayhems]

Pre limb report back from Uni is the samples we were given from user is sodium hypochlorite NaOCl other wise know as bleach. It has 0.5% which is enough to kill off the UV dye. Seems the system all though flushed may still have residue left over and the user never neutralised the blench.

@JeffyB Primochill tubing may contain some thing that im unaware off because we have seen and had reports of the dye changing colour when using that tubing, The dye looks fine in the res how ever in the tubing it turned a funny colour.

 

[MNA24]

Pre limb report back from Uni is the samples we were given from user is sodium hypochlorite NaOCl other wise know as bleach. It has 0.5% which is enough to kill off the UV dye. Seems the system all though flushed may still have residue left over and the user never neutralised the blench.

This could explain the fading in the loop, but would it be that rapid from such a small dilute?

However this does not explain what happened in the video, as the Mayhems X1 Premix clear and UV Blue Dye liquids were poured directly into the test tubes and went no where near the actual loop in the system which contains the 0.5% bleach. The test was performed twice (which is sample 7 and 8 in your line up), 8 being the totally sterile container as container 7 was rinsed with tap water prior to testing.

 

[MNA24]

6) Customer sample direct out of bottle

Thats the sample out of the loop.

 

[Bubo]

Another quick test you could do, put your hand next to the phobya light and see if it gives you skin cancer, then you'd know if it is chucking out UV-C or not

Did you use bleach to clean out your loop?

 

[MNA24]

Did you use bleach to clean out your loop?

Yeah, i followed a recipe that Mick posted on a forum elsewhere on the internet:

mlwood37
09-26-2010, 08:53 PM
People will probably scream at me but i have been working on this cleaning residue and dye out of a system.

1 to 2 drops of Bleach (strong bleach not thin rubbish) in a system with d-water , fill run for 20min to 1/2 hour. Do not run any longer than this tough.
(kills every thing and removes dye staining)

Rinse out

add 5 mls of Benzalkonium Chloride,1227 to d-water and flush for 1 hour again this will not only neutralize the bleach but all so kill of any thing left over.

Flush one more time and your sorted.

Youll have a clean loop, all dye stains removed and should run like a dream. Tested 8 times now on stained systems and works perfectly every time.

Benzalkonium Chloride,1227 = 50ml for £3.99
Bleech - 1/2 Ltr for £1.00

Amount of loops it will clean = bloody loads

People will argue bleach will destroy rubber ect ect but the amount you use and and length of time its in the system it will have no effect on any components at all. It wont destroy seals or glue on the reservoirs neither.

Dont use acid such as vinegar as this will not only eat away at the rubber but its to slow to do any quick cleaning and is useless in a water cooling loop Not only that is can mess up copper.

The purpose was to clean dye residue left in my system from Mayhems UV Bloodred. After using the Benzalkonium Chloride I also went overkill with flushing (20+ litres of DI) so would have expected what ever might have been left of the bleach to have been cleared out. I even used less bleach than was stated in the instructions.

 

[Bubo]

Funny how your sterile test tubes were affected though as you say, if it isn't the light that's causing it.

I bet its the rad which would have been the most difficult component to flush, any plasticser build up in there is likely to absorb some bleach and hang on to it regardless of flushing. I personally wouldn't reccomend doing this bleach thing with everything connected up in a loop, if I did it at all. Maybe only do it with perpex tops only.

 

[MNA24]

Funny how your sterile test tubes were affected though as you say, if it isn't the light that's causing it.

Yes it's very strange. The loop sample would have probally still have some sort of glow (as visable from Micks test shot, number 6) under intense UV light as the loop had close to 3/4 of a bottle of the UV blue Dye due to re-adding because of the fading.

I bet its the rad which would have been the most difficult component to flush, any plasticser build up in there is likely to absorb some bleach and hang on to it regardless of flushing.

Maybe, but the loop was barely 2 months old so the chances of any plasticser build up would be low and i dont think its common with XSPC clear tubing.