What would I need to watercool a GTX480 (Reference) & My CPU (i7 3770K)?

For your first build I would always recommend clear tubing, that way you can see the flow, check for bubbles etc...it just makes life a whole lot easier.

I like those AC blocks, performance wise between the Supreme HF, Supremecy, Raystorm & kryos is very little, go with what you like the most cosmetically :)

I actually considered moving over to a full silver Kryos until I saw the price :o
 
Personally i would go for the Raystorm. There is very little difference in performance between the top blocks and it's £15 cheaper.

Forget the tube cutters, you don't need them. A decent pair of scissors or a stanley knife blade will do the job. I just use a stanley knife blade.
 
Thanks pastymuncher :)

I've just been reading the water cooling sticky and it mentions not to mix metals as they'll cause problems, am I in any danger with the bits I've chosen, as there is copper, nickel plated brass, steel etc??

Ta muchly :)
 
Your chosen coolant has a corrosion inhibitor that should negate that. I have Copper, brass, nickel plated fittings and anodised aluminium in my loop and have never had any corrosion issues with any of the additives i use. Currently have de-ionised water with Primochill Liquid Utopia in it and have been using that for 2-3 years now (been drained and re-filled in that time).
 
You don't really need full cover blocks for the graphics card. If you buy them new they are about £80-90 a go and most likely you won't be able to fit it to your next card.

I've managed to fit a simple EK vga supreme to a 670gtx with some re-arranging the fittings slightly. It cost me £30 (plus some ramsinks, which you can also re-use) and I have used it on my last 2 cards. Just make sure you have enough air blowing over for the ram.
 
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Ive got angled rotaries and no issues, they do have an extra o ring in them that needs to be treated with a tiny bit of respect e.g. dont put too much lateral pressure on them
 
Cracking rad as long as you can fit it in the case. Comparison of the 360 version against several others here.

I have 90 degree rotaries between my two rads and haven't had any problems. They are Phobya ones and were only around £3.50 each.
 
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pastymuncher said:
Cracking rad as long as you can fit it in the case. Comparison of the 360 version against several others here.

I have 90 degree rotaries between my two rads and haven't had any problems. They are Phobya ones and were only around £3.50 each.
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Thanks for the link mate, appreciated :)

The Black Ice comes out really well once you ramp up the fan speed, though I'm looking for silence too, so would you still recommend it with this in mind?

I've seen a few build logs that have managed to fit this puppy in, basically I have 605mm to play with absolutely max, and I think I've talked myself out of the Magicool rads as I keep hearing conflicting reports, even OCUK said they won't stock them due to the lack of quality against other similar priced rads?
 
fans on 1200rpm will be inaudible - that's where the black ice becomes the leader so I would say go for it!
the 560mm is also a 140mm fan version which will be quieter anyway - I've got 2 TY-140's running on my system at full 12V and they are inaudible
even if you can hear them on full, you can always turn them down ever so slightly on a controller and I'm willing to bet they will still be running fast enough to get the most out of that black ice
 
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andybird123 said:
fans on 1200rpm will be inaudible - that's where the black ice becomes the leader so I would say go for it!
the 560mm is also a 140mm fan version which will be quieter anyway - I've got 2 TY-140's running on my system at full 12V and they are inaudible
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That's what's worrying me, my AP181s on high are 1200rpm and they sound very noisy, so my thinking is 140s at 1200rpm will be noisier? Didn't know if the XSPC RX480 would be better, though I do like the look of the Black ICE SR1 560?

And you were spot on Andy, I've been build loops and speccing parts in my sleep, think I've got the water cooling bug, just don't tell the wife :p:D
 
my TY-140's on full are inaudible at 1300rpm - I don't like AP's because although they have that grill which directs the flow better they are noisier than FN181's but on rads the FN181's on max (700rpm) perform within about 0.5C of AP181's on 1200rpm despite the AP's supposedly pushing a lot more air
 
Ah, didn't see your ninja edit, makes sense, I'm getting the Lamptron FC2 so all is well on that score :)

So that brings me to my next point, I was looking at the AP141s but as you say Andy, the directed airflow might make them noisier, so what 140mm fans would you suggest chaps (they'll be below the rad drawing in air from the bottom of the case) so I guess the fan frame work needs to be strong, and if possible black and not see thru so it matches the rad?
 
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