Soldato
My ph2 172 will be getting sold for about 2k when I come to sell it which is a lot of car for your money imo. 3k depreciation in 2 years but should make a nice deposit for an S2000 or something 
Who here owns a Renaultsport?
- Thread starter russ9898
- Start date
Caporegime
I toying with the idea of a 172/182 but I've got £4,000 to spend, is this a decent budget? Also how do these cars fair on the motorway in terms of comfort/noise? Any advice would be great thanks.
Caporegime
Here's one I've seen which has caught my interest. http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/1239263.htm
How will this fair in terms of reliability and on the motorway?
How will this fair in terms of reliability and on the motorway?
£4000 should get you a decent 172, like above you'd struggle to get a 182 in this budget. These cars were never meant as motorway cruisers, so noise isn't the best, but just do what I do, crank the volume on the CD player up 
Comfort wise, they are pretty decent, love the seats in mine, but wouldn't look forward to any long trips.
Comfort wise, they are pretty decent, love the seats in mine, but wouldn't look forward to any long trips.
Caporegime
£4000 should get you a decent 172, like above you'd struggle to get a 182 in this budget. These cars were never meant as motorway cruisers, so noise isn't the best, but just do what I do, crank the volume on the CD player up
Well the other car I've been looking at is a MG ZR160, which isn't a motorway cruiser. I'm not exactly looking for a motorway cruiser anyway, I do 60 miles each way 3 times a week.
How reliable are these to run? I've heard bad things about them.
They do suffer from some reliability issues but they are common and can be prevented. I can only speak for a 172 but look out for these common faults:
Engine Mounts,
Centre and Rear Exhaust mounts,
Exhaust (by now it will probably have a stainless exhaust on it anyway),
Melting steering wheel and grips (on non-cup models),
Cambelt servicing (this is imperitive!!).
That's all I can think of at the moment. There are numerous members on Cliosport running cars at 100k+ miles without problems.
EDIT: My mate had a ZR (albeit not the 160) and it felt awful inside. It was stiff, had incredibly hard seats, the interior was dire and he had no end of problems with it.
Engine Mounts,
Centre and Rear Exhaust mounts,
Exhaust (by now it will probably have a stainless exhaust on it anyway),
Melting steering wheel and grips (on non-cup models),
Cambelt servicing (this is imperitive!!).
That's all I can think of at the moment. There are numerous members on Cliosport running cars at 100k+ miles without problems.
EDIT: My mate had a ZR (albeit not the 160) and it felt awful inside. It was stiff, had incredibly hard seats, the interior was dire and he had no end of problems with it.
Unfortunately it is French, so reliability isn't going to be great 
I haven't had mine long enough to really comment on this, but from other reviews it can vary. So long as you look after it, service it regularly it should run with few problems. There are going to be a few rattles going on, I have one but it's a case of tightening a few screws on the dash.
If you are looking at a 172, it's going to be over 5 years old, so make sure the cambelt has been changed, as this is important and is pretty expensive to get done. I've got the privelige of changing mine in the next 6 months, can't wait As Lead_Head has mentioned, the standard exhausts don't last long, but because of the age of car you'd be looking at, this should have been changed to a stainless steel one.
If you sign up to cliosport.net, they can pretty much advise you on what to look out for.
I haven't had mine long enough to really comment on this, but from other reviews it can vary. So long as you look after it, service it regularly it should run with few problems. There are going to be a few rattles going on, I have one but it's a case of tightening a few screws on the dash.
If you are looking at a 172, it's going to be over 5 years old, so make sure the cambelt has been changed, as this is important and is pretty expensive to get done. I've got the privelige of changing mine in the next 6 months, can't wait
As Lead_Head has mentioned, the standard exhausts don't last long, but because of the age of car you'd be looking at, this should have been changed to a stainless steel one.If you sign up to cliosport.net, they can pretty much advise you on what to look out for.
Caporegime
So this one I'm looking at seems good as it as had the belts done and a scorpion exhaust system. http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/1239263.htm
I've just found this on my work PC:
172/182 buyers guide
Exterior
• Check for the normal scratches dents etc
• Check the sills of the car for bending, car being jacked/possible accident damage.
• Presence of a sticker on the drivers door which tell you the oval plate details. If this is missing then it can show the cars been re sprayed and the sticker not replaced etc.
• VIN passenger side of the car down the bottom of the windscreen viewable from the outside and also under the bonnet.
• Check front xenon washer jet balls are there and work.
• Check for accident damage.
• Check in the boot under the carpet for any deformation.
• Check under the front of the car for the under bonnet cover its a big plastic cover under the engine its only thin plastic it helps keeps the underside of the engine clean and catches any oil drips.
• Check the rear lights - faulty rear light of any type is usually down to a poor earthing connected/water getting in them
Mechanics
• Check the engine doesn’t move much.
• The exhaust on the 172 and 182 aren’t great the 172 biggest issue, 3 years it breaks the weld to the front pipe most people then change for an aftermarket exhaust as stock is about the same price.
• Drive shaft gaiters can fail like any car and since there such a pain to properly change for proper Renault ones often best getting a whole new shaft which ins't cheap
• Abs rings can come loose (easy to change really) and cause ABS warning lights a new ring can be bought but many dealers cannot find the part number/price but they are there.
Check the washer jets work they do get blocked.
• Check the oil level though also if you have the engine cover removed check the head area for oil the seal isn't great.
• Check the steering to full lock often the strut tops under the bonnet for the strut catch on the body the Renault official fix is to grind some of the material from the body the other fix is to leave it or to stick some washer under the strut tops as per the Clio V6 has to lift the top as such.
Interior
• The biggest thing can be rattles/squeaks etc some cars are worse than others
• The seats should be in good condition wear on the side bolsters can be down to how the owners get in the car etc.
• Check the steering wheel for damage/wear depending on use etc they do wear and the finger grips bits can come away /fray etc
• Anther thing which can be damaged by the wearing of a ring etc is the gear knob they are quite cheap and easy to replace really if you are bothered.
• Check the condition of the gearbox gaiter there only cheap but when the dog bone mount wears etc they can break the clips if stretched to far needing a new one.
• Check the seat belt handles all work fixes aren't too difficult or expensive but something to check.
• Under the cigarette ash tray (pull it out) you'll see a little cover over a diagnostic port if you have access to a proper code reader then you could plug in here and check for any fault codes into showing up on the dashboard warning lights but those that do are usually insignificant anyway.
• Check the foot wells for the front and rear seats for water
• The front seats are down to a blocked valve/air con filter etc the rears are down the rear seat bar the holes let water
• Faulty rear window seals are common.
• Check all the electrics work - windows particularly
• Climate control works if there a buzzing sound when its on it could well just be the little fan in the console on the roof which blows air over the interior temp sensor for the climate easy/cheap to change though.
• When starting the car ideally turn the key so all the light come on then wait for them to go off before starting the car check the warning light etc go out the SERV light doesn't indicate servicing just that the car has a fault which needs sorting.
• Check under the passenger seat for presence of a CD changer if the CD changer cable is there then there was one fitted and someone removed it at some time. Some cars didn't have them as standard though.
172 phase 1 had them as standard
172 phase 2 early models were standard later models you had to pay for it approx when the cars came with stability/cruise control it came as as option instead.
• The airbag warning light can come on the most common issue is the wiring under the seats going wrong the fix is detailed here.
Driving
• The handling should be very good it one of the things that got it a good reputation so anything un-towards should raise suspicion
• One thing maybe the cars rear end twitchiness
• The rear dampers can leak/fail quite quickly there only £100 or so for two new ones and a few minutes to fit.
Check the car stops and steers straight as the brakes are superb on the car tracking can be an issue it just might need adjusting
• Check for any clicking etc noises its difficult to say what exactly but comparing cars is the best idea.
• When driving the car at a fair few rpm lift off the throttle and check for engine shake it its really bad then the engine will knock itself out of gear. Its caused by the engine mounts wearing/moving the usually one is the dog bone one which is quite cheap and quick to replace.
• Also as a note the gearbox isn't the best ever to use it shouldn't crunch or grind etc just the feel is nothing like say a VAG etc.
• The clutch is very heavy and has a high bite point its normal though again best compare with other 172/182 cars but yes they are heavy and high with a small bite point.
• Also the clutch release bearing can wear a lot stick the car into neutral and with your foot down you'll hear it wine it will last though many have wines for ages before they are sold on etc so life span is unclear and since a change of them is a 7 hour job (and you should change the clutch at the same time as the cars stripped down loads to get to it).
• When you start the car from cold you'll notice the idle isn't great this is due to the mapping its not to bad but as I've said earlier best compare to other cars. They can have trouble idling with dirty throttle bodies, faulty sensors etc.
Things to check when driving• Temp gauge goes up to the middle and doesn’t move if, it goes up and down then shows a faulty temp sensor its a common issue only cheap to change need to check the loom isn't fraid as well though.
• When cold the car has a lower red line about 6k leave it to warm up and it goes to 7.2k.
Service history
• 6k change the oil at minimum.
• Check the AUX belt has been changed every 36k though or else change it its not cheap as its 2.7 hour labour. So many failures that the service rules were changed down to 36k at a maximum.
Price
• Best check against other prices on auto trader (remember this is only what people are asking not getting so maybe try ring them see how well there selling but remember not everyone will be totally honest) and Parkers etc.
Extra things to check• Two keys are present and both work (at £120 or so minimum for a replacement its worth checking).
• Check the locking wheel nut keys (there should be two) are present and correct and ideally check they work.
• Import 172 don't have (as stanard) locking wheel nuts (one per wheel), Window etching, alarm fitted as standard/embbed into the reciever.
Hope it helps
172/182 buyers guide
Exterior
• Check for the normal scratches dents etc
• Check the sills of the car for bending, car being jacked/possible accident damage.
• Presence of a sticker on the drivers door which tell you the oval plate details. If this is missing then it can show the cars been re sprayed and the sticker not replaced etc.
• VIN passenger side of the car down the bottom of the windscreen viewable from the outside and also under the bonnet.
• Check front xenon washer jet balls are there and work.
• Check for accident damage.
• Check in the boot under the carpet for any deformation.
• Check under the front of the car for the under bonnet cover its a big plastic cover under the engine its only thin plastic it helps keeps the underside of the engine clean and catches any oil drips.
• Check the rear lights - faulty rear light of any type is usually down to a poor earthing connected/water getting in them
Mechanics
• Check the engine doesn’t move much.
• The exhaust on the 172 and 182 aren’t great the 172 biggest issue, 3 years it breaks the weld to the front pipe most people then change for an aftermarket exhaust as stock is about the same price.
• Drive shaft gaiters can fail like any car and since there such a pain to properly change for proper Renault ones often best getting a whole new shaft which ins't cheap
• Abs rings can come loose (easy to change really) and cause ABS warning lights a new ring can be bought but many dealers cannot find the part number/price but they are there.
Check the washer jets work they do get blocked.
• Check the oil level though also if you have the engine cover removed check the head area for oil the seal isn't great.
• Check the steering to full lock often the strut tops under the bonnet for the strut catch on the body the Renault official fix is to grind some of the material from the body the other fix is to leave it or to stick some washer under the strut tops as per the Clio V6 has to lift the top as such.
Interior
• The biggest thing can be rattles/squeaks etc some cars are worse than others
• The seats should be in good condition wear on the side bolsters can be down to how the owners get in the car etc.
• Check the steering wheel for damage/wear depending on use etc they do wear and the finger grips bits can come away /fray etc
• Anther thing which can be damaged by the wearing of a ring etc is the gear knob they are quite cheap and easy to replace really if you are bothered.
• Check the condition of the gearbox gaiter there only cheap but when the dog bone mount wears etc they can break the clips if stretched to far needing a new one.
• Check the seat belt handles all work fixes aren't too difficult or expensive but something to check.
• Under the cigarette ash tray (pull it out) you'll see a little cover over a diagnostic port if you have access to a proper code reader then you could plug in here and check for any fault codes into showing up on the dashboard warning lights but those that do are usually insignificant anyway.
• Check the foot wells for the front and rear seats for water
• The front seats are down to a blocked valve/air con filter etc the rears are down the rear seat bar the holes let water
• Faulty rear window seals are common.
• Check all the electrics work - windows particularly
• Climate control works if there a buzzing sound when its on it could well just be the little fan in the console on the roof which blows air over the interior temp sensor for the climate easy/cheap to change though.
• When starting the car ideally turn the key so all the light come on then wait for them to go off before starting the car check the warning light etc go out the SERV light doesn't indicate servicing just that the car has a fault which needs sorting.
• Check under the passenger seat for presence of a CD changer if the CD changer cable is there then there was one fitted and someone removed it at some time. Some cars didn't have them as standard though.
172 phase 1 had them as standard
172 phase 2 early models were standard later models you had to pay for it approx when the cars came with stability/cruise control it came as as option instead.
• The airbag warning light can come on the most common issue is the wiring under the seats going wrong the fix is detailed here.
Driving
• The handling should be very good it one of the things that got it a good reputation so anything un-towards should raise suspicion
• One thing maybe the cars rear end twitchiness
• The rear dampers can leak/fail quite quickly there only £100 or so for two new ones and a few minutes to fit.
Check the car stops and steers straight as the brakes are superb on the car tracking can be an issue it just might need adjusting
• Check for any clicking etc noises its difficult to say what exactly but comparing cars is the best idea.
• When driving the car at a fair few rpm lift off the throttle and check for engine shake it its really bad then the engine will knock itself out of gear. Its caused by the engine mounts wearing/moving the usually one is the dog bone one which is quite cheap and quick to replace.
• Also as a note the gearbox isn't the best ever to use it shouldn't crunch or grind etc just the feel is nothing like say a VAG etc.
• The clutch is very heavy and has a high bite point its normal though again best compare with other 172/182 cars but yes they are heavy and high with a small bite point.
• Also the clutch release bearing can wear a lot stick the car into neutral and with your foot down you'll hear it wine it will last though many have wines for ages before they are sold on etc so life span is unclear and since a change of them is a 7 hour job (and you should change the clutch at the same time as the cars stripped down loads to get to it).
• When you start the car from cold you'll notice the idle isn't great this is due to the mapping its not to bad but as I've said earlier best compare to other cars. They can have trouble idling with dirty throttle bodies, faulty sensors etc.
Things to check when driving• Temp gauge goes up to the middle and doesn’t move if, it goes up and down then shows a faulty temp sensor its a common issue only cheap to change need to check the loom isn't fraid as well though.
• When cold the car has a lower red line about 6k leave it to warm up and it goes to 7.2k.
Service history
• 6k change the oil at minimum.
• Check the AUX belt has been changed every 36k though or else change it its not cheap as its 2.7 hour labour. So many failures that the service rules were changed down to 36k at a maximum.
Price
• Best check against other prices on auto trader (remember this is only what people are asking not getting so maybe try ring them see how well there selling but remember not everyone will be totally honest) and Parkers etc.
Extra things to check• Two keys are present and both work (at £120 or so minimum for a replacement its worth checking).
• Check the locking wheel nut keys (there should be two) are present and correct and ideally check they work.
• Import 172 don't have (as stanard) locking wheel nuts (one per wheel), Window etching, alarm fitted as standard/embbed into the reciever.
Hope it helps
It does look to be in excellent condition, but seems a little expensive for a 2001 plate. I'm not fully clued up on 172 prices, since I was soley interested in the 182, so don't know what a decent 172 should be selling for. Sign up on cliosport.net and ask the guys on there, someone might even know the owner, or may even be the owner.
Caporegime
The low MOT on the silver 1 makes me hesitant. Other than that, I think the price is about right from what I've seen for a similar car e.g. http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classif...page/3&anchor=advert200938341846046&logcode=p
Underboss
I was toying with the idea about June / July time when i bought the clio in the end
The clio is faster than the MG plus it seems to do more MPG than the MG, plus MG have gone bust and Renalt, well racing heritige here
the clio is actually better than I thought it would be, motorways driving is fine
Underboss
personaly i feel thats Too Much for a sivler 2001 model, i paid 3500 for my black 52 plate, with 49K
Caporegime
You're probably right, but I'm finding the prices are consistent for this year/model on pistonheads and autotrader. I think used car prices have risen recently.
@Evo - not as many toys on the Ph1?
Caporegime
Underboss
looks good if genuine miles
although hes put a twin exhast on the back so hes cut away so they could fit, i would personaly change that for a single or a hidden one from K-tech
Underboss
PH1 has no xenons or climate control, different interior
plus they look different, i prefer the look on the PH2's