Mr Krugga, how are you finding the E5 and NS1000's wih the DG asus card? Im currently running an asus xonar DX pcie soundcard with NS1000's, very impressed, does the E5 make much difference in passive mode, im going through batterys very quickly as i use the ANR on the goldrings quite a lot, blu ray, dvd's and music on a daily basis.
Xonar DG - ultimate budget headphone card?
- Thread starter Uriel
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Have you listened with Dolby Headphone both in and off? It makes everything sound more distant but if either the headphones are unsuitable, or the HRTF doesn't suit you, the bass will just sound quieter.
Having said that - the Xtreme Music was a lot more expensive at launch. I would be very surprised if Asus have managed to beat the component quality with a £25 soundcard.
Caporegime
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Right, thanks guys. I've done some troubleshooting this morning (will answer your points shortly):
- Sound card was occupying PCI slot next to GPU...moved to furthest available slot, no change to buzzing noise but FP switching now sort of works, though it's the wrong way round, i.e. outputs 5.1 through rears when headphones are in and switches to FP headphones when headphones are disconnected. Hmm.
- Disconnecting front and back panel USB headers from motherboard, no change to buzzing or switching behaviour.
- Changed FP mode from HD Audio to AC97 and rebooted with headphones in the front slot. FP switching now works perfectly, though the driver does not seem to remember the settings between 5.1 and headphones, reducing the potential convenience advantage. Buzzing still equally present.
Next things to try are:
- Remove TV card in case something about this is causing the interference.
...no difference, humming and buzzing still present. Part of the humming changes when I move the mouse, some of it is always present. Time to investigate grounding issues...
- Switch front panel back to HD Audio and reboot with headphones still connected to FP.
...Ok, this did not work so the FP obviously has to be set to AC97 rather than HD Audio. Perhaps my front panel just does not support HD Audio...would this make any difference to the quality? Is it worth my time buying an 'ISO' front panel for the floppy drive slot that supports HD Audio via front panel? It take it it makes no difference unless the source is HD in the first place?
...Switched back to AC97 and rebooted without headphones in the front, auto-switching is unresponsive.
...Quit program this time before rebooting, again without headphones in the front; auto-switching is now working perfectly
.
Back in a sec...
- Sound card was occupying PCI slot next to GPU...moved to furthest available slot, no change to buzzing noise but FP switching now sort of works, though it's the wrong way round, i.e. outputs 5.1 through rears when headphones are in and switches to FP headphones when headphones are disconnected. Hmm.
- Disconnecting front and back panel USB headers from motherboard, no change to buzzing or switching behaviour.
- Changed FP mode from HD Audio to AC97 and rebooted with headphones in the front slot. FP switching now works perfectly, though the driver does not seem to remember the settings between 5.1 and headphones, reducing the potential convenience advantage. Buzzing still equally present.
Next things to try are:
- Remove TV card in case something about this is causing the interference.
...no difference, humming and buzzing still present. Part of the humming changes when I move the mouse, some of it is always present. Time to investigate grounding issues...
- Switch front panel back to HD Audio and reboot with headphones still connected to FP.
...Ok, this did not work so the FP obviously has to be set to AC97 rather than HD Audio. Perhaps my front panel just does not support HD Audio...would this make any difference to the quality? Is it worth my time buying an 'ISO' front panel for the floppy drive slot that supports HD Audio via front panel? It take it it makes no difference unless the source is HD in the first place?
...Switched back to AC97 and rebooted without headphones in the front, auto-switching is unresponsive.
...Quit program this time before rebooting, again without headphones in the front; auto-switching is now working perfectly
.Back in a sec...
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It does sound great, I'm using passive mode only now
Bass is more punchy but sound isn't probably as crispy as it would be with ANR on. E5 is really small too, a great addition for portable devices (and definitely makes a difference there). ANR on sounds a little too artificial compared to ANR off, I'd only use it if you're using a public transport 
Robbie, I have two separate cables from the Front Panel in my case. It's either AC'97 or HD Audio, I'm using the latter. It doesn't make any difference whatsoever if I change it in Audio Centre though (which is probably a good thing).
Humming and buzzing is a problem you have to sort out yourself, it can be caused by many things. I very much doubt the audio card is the cause of all problems here.
I had some problems with auto-switching before but tbh, I haven't turned on my speakers ever since I got the E5 (and only a few times
I don't turn off my PC too often either (rather put it in Sleep Mode for 2 sec respawn
) but just checked and the auto-switching wouldn't work for me either. So I just switched to Headphones or Speakers in Audio Centre and plugged in and out the Front Panel headphones, works a treat now. It has probably something to do with the last working device, I'm not too bothered with it as it takes a few seconds to switch back and forth and is quite convenient.
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Interesting Auraomega has a case that has shielded cables. Maybe he can tell us which case he has. I'm guessing it's the type of extra only likely to be included with higherspec cases. Lame really, given how cheap a shielded cable is.
Robbie, do you have a ferrite ring in your case? If you don't, get one, see if that helps to disperse the EMI from the cables. Cheap crap cables included with most cases are the reason for EMI with the front case audio connections. It's not always a problem though, I have 2 cases where I get no EMI from the front sockets. Might be something to do with in both cases the sockets are at opposite ends to the PSU. PSU at top of case, sockets at bottom etc, so the cables are far from the PSU as possible. That is likely only a factor though, as some components will produce more EMI than others, so for some, it won't matter where the cables are.
If you get no luck with a ferrite ring, assuming you don't have one already, then you could try shield the cable yourself. Other than that, don't know what else you can do inside the case.
As for the auto switching, it's a pain. It's advertised as a feature of the card, and the fact it's so hit and miss, is lame. I can only assume, people want to use this feature when they have a game running, or a program they would need to minimise. For those that find it too much work to use the sound cards control panel, lazy sods.
If it is too temperamental, this auto switching, get an audio switcher. Will plug into the rear of the card, so no EMI, and can easily switch between speakers and headphones. Would be awkward for people with analogue 5.1 speakers though.
Robbie, do you have a ferrite ring in your case? If you don't, get one, see if that helps to disperse the EMI from the cables. Cheap crap cables included with most cases are the reason for EMI with the front case audio connections. It's not always a problem though, I have 2 cases where I get no EMI from the front sockets. Might be something to do with in both cases the sockets are at opposite ends to the PSU. PSU at top of case, sockets at bottom etc, so the cables are far from the PSU as possible. That is likely only a factor though, as some components will produce more EMI than others, so for some, it won't matter where the cables are.
If you get no luck with a ferrite ring, assuming you don't have one already, then you could try shield the cable yourself. Other than that, don't know what else you can do inside the case.
As for the auto switching, it's a pain. It's advertised as a feature of the card, and the fact it's so hit and miss, is lame. I can only assume, people want to use this feature when they have a game running, or a program they would need to minimise. For those that find it too much work to use the sound cards control panel, lazy sods.
If it is too temperamental, this auto switching, get an audio switcher. Will plug into the rear of the card, so no EMI, and can easily switch between speakers and headphones. Would be awkward for people with analogue 5.1 speakers though.
Caporegime
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***SOLUTION!!!***
Well guys, I Googled around for a while and found a thread on an Antec support forum, on which people were saying they solved their front panel buzzing by disconnecting the front panel earthing screw.
The screw was causing a ground loop, because the front panel sockets also have their own ground in the multi-cable!
This got me wondering if I had a similar problem as I had all the same symptoms described ...I couldn't see a screw to the chassis, but then I noticed this:
The front plate is in direct contact with the chassis, so that's where I reckon it was earthing. My case is a Lian Li PC-7 Plus.
Removing the panel from contact with the case resulted in zero detectable background noise through the headphones, yay!
So I wrapped the screws in PTFE tape and put some electrical tape behind the front panel / chassis contact points:
Ideally I'd make sure of a lack of electrical contact between the screws and chassis, by gluing the panel on or something, though unless I'm extremely precise, the front panel won't go back on.
I then set about fiddling with the settings.
I actually found the following very good for music through headphones (Sennheiser HD555):
Audio channel: 2 Channels.
Sample rate: PCM 96KHz.
Analogue out: FP Headphones.
Dolby headphone ticked, setting: DH-1.
Amp mode: exciter (the highest gain).
FP mode: AC97 (as opposed to HD, I gather this is determined by the type of connector on your front panel).
30Hz and 60Hz tweaked upwards a couple of notches on the crossover.
Flexbass and everything else off (including GX).
Front switching still seems flaky (seems to not switch if the program isn't actually loaded fully, rather than TSR'd).
Conclusion: I'm definitely keeping this card now, as I'm actually picking up some details I wasn't before. I still don't think the SQ is quite there in music, and the drivers seem very poor.
However, the convenience and the fact that the SQ seems better in terms of pure details (hearing background voices / noises I never noticed before on certain tracks), along with the fact that the buzzing was (as was always likely) nothing to do with the sound card, means that this card is now very much a keeper.
Well guys, I Googled around for a while and found a thread on an Antec support forum, on which people were saying they solved their front panel buzzing by disconnecting the front panel earthing screw.
The screw was causing a ground loop, because the front panel sockets also have their own ground in the multi-cable!
This got me wondering if I had a similar problem as I had all the same symptoms described ...I couldn't see a screw to the chassis, but then I noticed this:
The front plate is in direct contact with the chassis, so that's where I reckon it was earthing. My case is a Lian Li PC-7 Plus.
Removing the panel from contact with the case resulted in zero detectable background noise through the headphones, yay!
So I wrapped the screws in PTFE tape and put some electrical tape behind the front panel / chassis contact points:
Ideally I'd make sure of a lack of electrical contact between the screws and chassis, by gluing the panel on or something, though unless I'm extremely precise, the front panel won't go back on.
I then set about fiddling with the settings.
I actually found the following very good for music through headphones (Sennheiser HD555):
Audio channel: 2 Channels.
Sample rate: PCM 96KHz.
Analogue out: FP Headphones.
Dolby headphone ticked, setting: DH-1.
Amp mode: exciter (the highest gain).
FP mode: AC97 (as opposed to HD, I gather this is determined by the type of connector on your front panel).
30Hz and 60Hz tweaked upwards a couple of notches on the crossover.
Flexbass and everything else off (including GX).
Front switching still seems flaky (seems to not switch if the program isn't actually loaded fully, rather than TSR'd).
Conclusion: I'm definitely keeping this card now, as I'm actually picking up some details I wasn't before. I still don't think the SQ is quite there in music, and the drivers seem very poor.
However, the convenience and the fact that the SQ seems better in terms of pure details (hearing background voices / noises I never noticed before on certain tracks), along with the fact that the buzzing was (as was always likely) nothing to do with the sound card, means that this card is now very much a keeper.
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My case was one of the cheapest cases I could stand (granted I don't like it that much anymore 
), the NZXT Lexa S. It may be a ferrite ring but I didn't see one.
@Robbie: Good to see you've sorted it, seems a bit of an oversight for a brand like Lian Li but at least it was easy to sort out. I agree with noticing more details through headphones, I tried my speakers (some small 5.1 set up because I don't have much room) but wasn't that impressed, can't say I'm overly surprised though as the card is more headphone oriented.
), the NZXT Lexa S. It may be a ferrite ring but I didn't see one.@Robbie: Good to see you've sorted it, seems a bit of an oversight for a brand like Lian Li but at least it was easy to sort out. I agree with noticing more details through headphones, I tried my speakers (some small 5.1 set up because I don't have much room) but wasn't that impressed, can't say I'm overly surprised though as the card is more headphone oriented.
I assume the problem with Antec cases is random, and not happening to the majority? I have an Antec case, but have had no EMI issues, thus the earthing screw remains. Unless, I'm just fortunate.
Good work Robbie, glad you got the EMI problem sorted. I wonder if the earthing problem is more the cause than cheap crap cables. Probably a bit of both at a guess.
Might be worth trying the Uni drivers, see if you notice any improvements anywhere. I'm not entirely sure they will fix the auto switching, as the guy who released them, reckoned the auto switching could work for all Xonar's, but he needs the original coding. Without that, I don't know if the auto switching can be made to work as it should.
Did you use Creative's drivers with your X-Fi, Robbie? or modified ones?
Good work Robbie, glad you got the EMI problem sorted. I wonder if the earthing problem is more the cause than cheap crap cables. Probably a bit of both at a guess.
Might be worth trying the Uni drivers, see if you notice any improvements anywhere. I'm not entirely sure they will fix the auto switching, as the guy who released them, reckoned the auto switching could work for all Xonar's, but he needs the original coding. Without that, I don't know if the auto switching can be made to work as it should.
Did you use Creative's drivers with your X-Fi, Robbie? or modified ones?
Robbie G[quote said:
Could be the amp bringing out better performance from the headphones, rather than the card's SQ. Although they are easy to drive, amplification may bring out more detail. Having said that, it's entirely possible the card can reveal certain details, even if the SQ isn't as good as an X-Fi.
Caporegime
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I suppose it could be an oversight, but I wonder also if it could be by design that the front panel is earthed. The problem being if someone uses connections from the front panel to the mobo that doesn't have its own earth...well, the thought process being that it's better to over-earth than under-earth.
I assume the problem with Antec cases is random, and not happening to the majority? I have an Antec case, but have had no EMI issues, thus the earthing screw remains. Unless, I'm just fortunate.
Good work Robbie, glad you got the EMI problem sorted. I wonder if the earthing problem is more the cause than cheap crap cables. Probably a bit of both at a guess.
Might be worth trying the Uni drivers, see if you notice any improvements anywhere. I'm not entirely sure they will fix the auto switching, as the guy who released them, reckoned the auto switching could work for all Xonar's, but he needs the original coding. Without that, I don't know if the auto switching can be made to work as it should.
Did you use Creative's drivers with your X-Fi, Robbie? or modified ones?
Not sure how many Antec customers are affected or what cases are affected. The thread I saw related exclusively to the Antec 900. I assume also that Antec revised the design, maybe shipped cases with better shielded front panel cables, etc..
Yeah I doubt the cheap crap cables are helping at all. Ideally I'd have a decent shielded cable going from front panel to sound card, but it's now undetectable by my ears, so I won't bother looking into this I don't think.
I may try the uni drivers at some point in the future, but I'll do a bit of reading on them first to find out what differences people are noticing.
With my X-Fi I used Creative's own drivers (I think they eventually got them sorted). Never did get the right click to change mode function working as it did in XP though. The only time I used modified drivers on my X-Fi, was when I started using Vista but before Creative had released working drivers for the X-Fis.
I'd imagine so, yes. To be honest I find the convenience and detail revealed more important than the sheer SQ in the computer room, mainly because details in games are more important than SQ, you could argue.
If I'm feeling like pure music SQ on any one day, I can always go downstairs and stick the Hi-Fi on
.Thanks for the input anyway all. Time to sell the X-Fi I think
.I've just started to get a clicking noise when switching from front panel to rear, sounds almost like a voltage spark, very disconcerting. Anyone else having a similar issue? Going to shut down now and see if I can see anything obvious causing it 
Reviews, reviews here!
I've just started to get a clicking noise when switching from front panel to rear, sounds almost like a voltage spark, very disconcerting. Anyone else having a similar issue? Going to shut down now and see if I can see anything obvious causing it
Yep, it's nothing to worry about mate
Sorry, I just get paranoid when something isn't quite right and could potentially damage expensive hardware. Just odd that I didn't hear it in the past.
I notice you've got the same case as me, my front panel seems to only work when I insert the jack at an angle, it doesn't affect my DR150s, but plugging the E5 I actually have to hold the jack slightly down to get it to switch and when I let go, it flips back to speakers. Do you have the same issue/advice on how to sort it?
I notice you've got the same case as me, my front panel seems to only work when I insert the jack at an angle, it doesn't affect my DR150s, but plugging the E5 I actually have to hold the jack slightly down to get it to switch and when I let go, it flips back to speakers. Do you have the same issue/advice on how to sort it?
No, it's pretty solid on mine, although the front panel is probably the weakest part of the case. I'm no regretting getting it but something of more natural shape would be appreciated much
Open the front panel and check out the wires, you should sort them out easily.
Open the front panel and check out the wires, you should sort them out easily.
Eh, I have a fear of removing the front face on this case since slicing my finger on one of the rivets
Lol. I do it all the time, I practically rip apart the whole case every now and then. The more you get used to it, the more you are confident of what you're doing
C'mon, there's nothing you can break if you're careful