I think its very similar to the material this thread is about, except with a piece of material in the middle that the 'paste' is attracted to. So it's much easier to apply/remove. I'm at a bit of a loss as to why all the lapping & obsessive cleaning business isn't needed for it, this can only be a good thing. It's probably a very good buy, even at £8 a mount or so.
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*EPIC THREAD* Major Problems with Coollaboratory Liquid Pro Thermal Compound DEAD CPU
- Thread starter alex2zulu
- Start date
Soldato
I believe there are many different types for the same Btec for example there are about 3 different versions of the national dip, general, business( I did that one and it sucked) and I think there is one for networking( not sure if there are any more I m questing there was, i m only going by memory here), they all share the same core units however. Diplomas mean nothing in ICT industry only good for getting into uni... unlike the A+, N+ etc which are very specialised and in depth
i think that should sum it up, don't quote me on it through
Non of which means the owner is a qualified tech, its only possible to get a job as one don't mean that one is, in fact tbh the diplomas don't give the skills needed for a fully blown tech anyways
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Associate
I believe its actually a solid alloy which undergoes a phase change at around 80 deg C (you have to overheat the CPU after you have installed it, instructions on Indigo site), becomes soft and fills voids between the CPU and HS. I'm hoping OcUK might get some.The shipping charge to the UK if you buy it off the Indigo site is horrific
I have used it many times and NEVER had a problem you could not have read the instructions, all these diploma's and no common sense by the sounds of it.
It is impossible for it to leak out because when applied properly it makes a bond so tight to the cpu and cooler you just cannot get it off believe me I know what I talking about I have no diploma's just happen to have used around 15 tubes of it and have another 2 tubes in stock, read the instructions and it works well.
Soldato
as a rule always read the instruction manual to avoid embarrassing stuff like this 
Some newfound sympathy for the OP. This stuff is a bitch. On the bright side it's not immediately harmful to skin, it came out of the syringe at a fair velocity and I had a little play with the bit which landed on my hand.
Poor wetting characteristics, perhaps because the cooler had been used with AS5 previously and had not been lapped since. Eventually adhered, rubbed with cotton bud to achieve this as the syringe bent when I tried to rub it in using that. Put some on an aluminium heatsink. It's gone black, so I'm inclined to agree with no aluminium. The copper + aluminium heatsink (prize if you can guess which one I'm using) is currently under the grill to see what happens when it gets hot.
Edit. I do not recommend attempting this; the grill may have been a stupid idea. Fumes of some sort in the air, extractor fan appears to be resolving this. I would guess its the aluminium reacting. However I can report that the liquid pro becomes much easier to spread when hot, and this allows a thinner layer to be used (spreads very easily with cotton bud now, and since some adheres to cotton bud, layer decreases in thickness).
Aluminium + liquid pro + water is excellent. It froths and a large amount of aluminium vanishes below beneath it. I think I'm going to end up wasting the vast majority of this liquid by putting it on aluminium things. The bit on copper is failing to do anything. I'm taking photos with limited skill.
Poor wetting characteristics, perhaps because the cooler had been used with AS5 previously and had not been lapped since. Eventually adhered, rubbed with cotton bud to achieve this as the syringe bent when I tried to rub it in using that. Put some on an aluminium heatsink. It's gone black, so I'm inclined to agree with no aluminium. The copper + aluminium heatsink (prize if you can guess which one I'm using) is currently under the grill to see what happens when it gets hot.
Edit. I do not recommend attempting this; the grill may have been a stupid idea. Fumes of some sort in the air, extractor fan appears to be resolving this. I would guess its the aluminium reacting. However I can report that the liquid pro becomes much easier to spread when hot, and this allows a thinner layer to be used (spreads very easily with cotton bud now, and since some adheres to cotton bud, layer decreases in thickness).
Aluminium + liquid pro + water is excellent. It froths and a large amount of aluminium vanishes below beneath it. I think I'm going to end up wasting the vast majority of this liquid by putting it on aluminium things. The bit on copper is failing to do anything. I'm taking photos with limited skill.
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Soldato
Lol, now is Gallium vapour toxic?
Gallium/aluminium vapour? I'll be astonished if it isn't. Certainly smells toxic 
In all seriousness, this on aluminium is entirely worth the cost of the syringe. It's now on the hob to see what happens at higher temperatures. Considering oven for prolonged length of time. Slight worries about it igniting after the enthusiastic reaction with water, have disabled fire alarm in case.
I'm not just just messing around, I'm wondering about treating lapped copper heatsinks with this to form a highly conductive layer, filling all voids and preventing future oxidation. The aluminium bit is entertaining, but obviously has no application here.
Now feels rough, granular. Hard to say if this a result of the layer being thinner or it changing properties with temperature. Looks like a very thin layer is achievable by removing the material as much as possible while hot. Aluminium/gallium/water mix is readily soluble in IPA, and fairly soluble in citrus degreaser.
In all seriousness, this on aluminium is entirely worth the cost of the syringe. It's now on the hob to see what happens at higher temperatures. Considering oven for prolonged length of time. Slight worries about it igniting after the enthusiastic reaction with water, have disabled fire alarm in case.
I'm not just just messing around, I'm wondering about treating lapped copper heatsinks with this to form a highly conductive layer, filling all voids and preventing future oxidation. The aluminium bit is entertaining, but obviously has no application here.
Now feels rough, granular. Hard to say if this a result of the layer being thinner or it changing properties with temperature. Looks like a very thin layer is achievable by removing the material as much as possible while hot. Aluminium/gallium/water mix is readily soluble in IPA, and fairly soluble in citrus degreaser.
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Soldato
Damn what fun, sounds like an episode of mythbusters.
90% sure this is going to be a success. Liquid pro is disliked for being difficult to remove from heatsinks for alloying with the surface. I dislike copper oxidising after lapping. So lapping, then cleaning with acetone, then a thin layer of liquid pro left on the surface, then lapping with 2000 grit, will leave you with a perfectly flat, oxidation resistant layer. Since it's not electroplated it won't be porous, and since it's lapped it'll be flat. You can then use whatever TIM you see fit.
Entirely sold by this material, I think it's excellent. A low temperature solder, or non-porous protective plating. Loads in the tube too, I've used 1/16th of it, and that's including the bit I got on my hand. And the bit I thought I'd put on the aluminium. Near the end of testing I'll start a new thread on this, I currently think the product deserves more positive attention than it tends to receive
I now have burns on my finger in the pattern of heatsink fins. Apparently 1/6 on an electric hob is still hot enough to burn.
Entirely sold by this material, I think it's excellent. A low temperature solder, or non-porous protective plating. Loads in the tube too, I've used 1/16th of it, and that's including the bit I got on my hand. And the bit I thought I'd put on the aluminium. Near the end of testing I'll start a new thread on this, I currently think the product deserves more positive attention than it tends to receive
I now have burns on my finger in the pattern of heatsink fins. Apparently 1/6 on an electric hob is still hot enough to burn.
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I only used this once - I was very happy with it until it came to removing the damn block off the CPU!
Anyone remember that advert where they stuck some guy to a board with adhesive and dangled him below a helicopter? You could do that with this stuff..
Anyone remember that advert where they stuck some guy to a board with adhesive and dangled him below a helicopter? You could do that with this stuff..
Soldato
One thing, make sure you don't get your heatsink above 300 degrees c if it's soldered together, otherwise the solder will melt and your heatsink will fall apart... but I'm sure you knew that already!
Soldato
Sounds like you're having fun with that stuff Jon! Might just be worth buying some to have a play with.
Few more results. After four heating cycles the liquid metal does not appear quite solid, in the near future I'm going to attempt to clean it off to see if any has attacked the surface. Just trying to persuade the aluminium to finish corroding in order to play with it in the absence of fumes and risk of fire.
Aluminium/gallium + water is similar cold, but much less impressive than when properly hot. Still, the only way of removing it does appear to be waiting for it to burn out, when you're left with a pile of grey powder.
Cheers for the warning Mike, though solder failing is the last of my worries were I to want to reuse this heatsink. It's an intel stock one with the plastic framework removed, extruded aluminium fins and what is either a push fit or soldered copper core. I suspect push fit. If this falls out, it'll give me a piece of copper to play with. Not the end of the world. That said, I have no idea what temperature a heatsink sat on a hob will reach. Oven might be a more sensible route.
Yeah, I'm enjoying myself. I really do think this liquid has sensible applications in computers.
Removing was interesting. I think its fair to say that the layer over the copper is insoluble in IPA. However, it does come off. I think its a case of the IPA reacting with the alloy to form something which doesn't adhere particularly well. Certainly the cotton buds are coming away black. I've not managed to remove all of it, though can see copper glinting through in a couple of places. Either unreactive or much less reactive with citrus degreaser, hard to tell if it's reacting or if I'm picking up the remains of the IPA reaction. Leaning towards reacts, but slowly. Suggests my ideas of passivating a heatsink with this are flawed. Anyone have a spare copper heatsink to ship my way? After this one I'm going to be experimenting with a lapped true I fear.
Conclusions as of a day or so with this stuff:
Surface must be clean before application.
Reacts well to heat, this can make spreading a thin layer much easier
Violent with aluminium and water, destructive with dry aluminium
The liquid pro is reactive. It is hard to tell whether the part that has alloyed with the copper is still reactive.
Reacts fast with IPA, slowly with citrus degreaser. Insoluble, but forms a material that can be removed by cotton buds.
Testing still to do.
Copper in absence of aluminium, water and IPA. I want to find a solvent that attacks thermal paste but not this stuff.
Results of prolonged heat treatment in coating a piece of copper. Intention is prolonged time in an oven, heat to encourage reaction with the copper, and reaction with the air to see if the latter occurs.
I'd like to turn a blowtorch on this, but don't think I'd learn much from the process.
Probably need to find a way of removing dust that occurs as a consequence of lapping.
I still think it has use in protecting bare copper. However, it cannot be washed with water or IPA. It probably reacts with the atmosphere, much like copper. However the surface oxidised protective layer is very likely to be soluble in fresh liquid metal, in which case the oxide will disperse throughout the join and have minimal effect on heat transfer. After long storage times it is probably worth relapping the surface with very fine paper. I should check the numbers relating to heat transfer, thickness of this layer may matter very little.
/offtopic
Current plan, as a reminder to myself but by all means criticise if you see flaws. Mill waterblock. Lap waterblock. Clean with IPA, then place in oven to drive out remaining solvent. Apply liquid metal, rub in thoroughly. Return to oven.
Lap cpu. Clean with IPA, leave in warm place. Not sure I'm brave enough to put an i7 into an oven, but at least it'll be cleaner than the block to start with. Apply liquid metal, leave in warm place. Consider under the grill.
Remove surplus from waterblock. Block should now be inarguably attached to liquid pro, cpu less so. Some surplus on cpu.
Mount processor/waterblock, light pressure. Run processor at 70 degrees for several hours to encourage the liquid metal to join the two together, and allow air to escape. Increase mounting pressure. Test as normal to see what change in temperatures has resulted.
Aluminium/gallium + water is similar cold, but much less impressive than when properly hot. Still, the only way of removing it does appear to be waiting for it to burn out, when you're left with a pile of grey powder.
Cheers for the warning Mike, though solder failing is the last of my worries were I to want to reuse this heatsink. It's an intel stock one with the plastic framework removed, extruded aluminium fins and what is either a push fit or soldered copper core. I suspect push fit. If this falls out, it'll give me a piece of copper to play with. Not the end of the world. That said, I have no idea what temperature a heatsink sat on a hob will reach. Oven might be a more sensible route.
Yeah, I'm enjoying myself. I really do think this liquid has sensible applications in computers.
Removing was interesting. I think its fair to say that the layer over the copper is insoluble in IPA. However, it does come off. I think its a case of the IPA reacting with the alloy to form something which doesn't adhere particularly well. Certainly the cotton buds are coming away black. I've not managed to remove all of it, though can see copper glinting through in a couple of places. Either unreactive or much less reactive with citrus degreaser, hard to tell if it's reacting or if I'm picking up the remains of the IPA reaction. Leaning towards reacts, but slowly. Suggests my ideas of passivating a heatsink with this are flawed. Anyone have a spare copper heatsink to ship my way? After this one I'm going to be experimenting with a lapped true I fear.
Conclusions as of a day or so with this stuff:
Surface must be clean before application.
Reacts well to heat, this can make spreading a thin layer much easier
Violent with aluminium and water, destructive with dry aluminium
The liquid pro is reactive. It is hard to tell whether the part that has alloyed with the copper is still reactive.
Reacts fast with IPA, slowly with citrus degreaser. Insoluble, but forms a material that can be removed by cotton buds.
Testing still to do.
Copper in absence of aluminium, water and IPA. I want to find a solvent that attacks thermal paste but not this stuff.
Results of prolonged heat treatment in coating a piece of copper. Intention is prolonged time in an oven, heat to encourage reaction with the copper, and reaction with the air to see if the latter occurs.
I'd like to turn a blowtorch on this, but don't think I'd learn much from the process.
Probably need to find a way of removing dust that occurs as a consequence of lapping.
I still think it has use in protecting bare copper. However, it cannot be washed with water or IPA. It probably reacts with the atmosphere, much like copper. However the surface oxidised protective layer is very likely to be soluble in fresh liquid metal, in which case the oxide will disperse throughout the join and have minimal effect on heat transfer. After long storage times it is probably worth relapping the surface with very fine paper. I should check the numbers relating to heat transfer, thickness of this layer may matter very little.
/offtopic
Current plan, as a reminder to myself but by all means criticise if you see flaws. Mill waterblock. Lap waterblock. Clean with IPA, then place in oven to drive out remaining solvent. Apply liquid metal, rub in thoroughly. Return to oven.
Lap cpu. Clean with IPA, leave in warm place. Not sure I'm brave enough to put an i7 into an oven, but at least it'll be cleaner than the block to start with. Apply liquid metal, leave in warm place. Consider under the grill.
Remove surplus from waterblock. Block should now be inarguably attached to liquid pro, cpu less so. Some surplus on cpu.
Mount processor/waterblock, light pressure. Run processor at 70 degrees for several hours to encourage the liquid metal to join the two together, and allow air to escape. Increase mounting pressure. Test as normal to see what change in temperatures has resulted.
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Soldato
If you just want some copper to experiment with, it may be worth picking up a few pieces of copper pipe from a plumbing shop... Or even fittings... Cheap but it's a nice source of copper, and better than using 1p and 2p coins in my experience!
Associate
better than using 1p and 2p coins in my experience!
its probably better in more ways than 1, coins generally are alloys, as copper isn't particularly strong pure, but as we all know moves heat well.
if it wasn't so expensive i would suggest gold as an alternative to copper, not sure if it would be better, haven't studied there thermocondictivity much, but its used in wringing a lot for connective things so i would presume its fairly good...
Soldato
Gold does not corrode, which is why it's used a lot for electrical connectors and also in PCB's. As for conductivity, I'm pretty silver is better than beats both copper and gold, but again it's not cheap.
I have made ramsinks before now from 2p's, they may not work as well as 100% copper heatsinks, but they still worked!
I have made ramsinks before now from 2p's, they may not work as well as 100% copper heatsinks, but they still worked!
Associate
well mike, that is a pretty cheep way of getting something that would usualy cost a few bucks for a panny ot two!