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***Intel i7 4790K Owners thread***

PCZ said:
Definite silicon lottery.
Would be nice if someone could explain how it is our L3 chips are so old.
How long has Intel been cherry picking ?
Click to expand...

Its the batch code, so L336 would be Malaysia chip, 2013, 36th week of 2013

L = Malaysia (plant code)
3 = Year (2013), would be 4 for 2014
36 = Week of production, so 36th week fo 2013.
 
wazza300 said:
you have a much better chip now setter,just need to fit your proper cooler
Click to expand...
I hope so wazza, tbf the 4770k i have is a better clocker than the vast majority of later chips ive seen on here. 1.296 at load for 4.5g. Many later ones struggle to get above 4.3g on much higher voltage. Temps were its single biggest issue. Ill sell it on to help fund the purchase of a second gtx 780.
 
$ilent said:
Its the batch code, so L336 would be Malaysia chip, 2013, 36th week of 2013

L = Malaysia (plant code)
3 = Year (2013), would be 4 for 2014
36 = Week of production, so 36th week fo 2013.
Click to expand...

Yes we worked that out already thanks

Since these are a new model why would they have been made in 2013, is the question
 
Goodbye warranty
Apologies for the blood at the top of the picture, it put up a fight.

hw-4790k-delid-small.png


full size original
 
Nice - question, how do you clean that glue off the pcb?

I would live to do this, run it with the bare die, but I wouldn't use liquid metal. Scsred i would short it plus I hear it is difficult to clean from both the die and the block if removing.
 
You have to use LM between die and IHS or don't bother doing it.
IHS to Heatsink any paste will do

Basically the glue is rubbed off by fingers.
Takes a while but tools could scratch the tracks or knock off the tiny caps.

I don't bare die mount.
 
Last edited:
PCZ said:
You have to use LM between die and IHS or don't bother doing it.
IHS to Heatsink any paste will do

Basically the glue is rubbed off by fingers.
Takes a while but tools could scratch the tracks or knock off the tiny caps.

I don't bare die mount.
Click to expand...

Do you just put IHS on and keep it in place with retention plate? Defo intersts me, but scares me at same time lol. What do you use on the components alongside the die to prevent short circuiting? I have heard nail varnish or even a thin line of no conductive paste?

What kind of drops do you expect with this method? I know bare die can be 20-25 degrees, is it much different with IHS?

Apologies for the 20 questions lol
 
Five.Stars said:
Do you just put IHS on and keep it in place with retention plate? Defo intersts me, but scares me at same time lol. What do you use on the components alongside the die to prevent short circuiting? I have heard nail varnish or even a thin line of no conductive paste?

What kind of drops do you expect with this method? I know bare die can be 20-25 degrees, is it much different with IHS?

Apologies for the 20 questions lol
Click to expand...

You pop the IHS back on and the socket retention mechanism locks it down real tight.
Just position it carefully when you close the socket lever.

First timers should use some nail varnish to cover the components to the side of the core as everybody uses FAR too much LM the first time.
A tiny drop spreads out a very long way.

Temp drops are massive much more than 25c.
The higher the core voltage the more the drop.
 
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