Soldato
Don't kid yourself; you'll shove the lid closed (if you can) and forget about it like the rest of us!
Project: TJ07 Revived
- Thread starter Harpss1ngh
- Start date
Don't kid yourself; you'll shove the lid closed (if you can) and forget about it like the rest of us!
They simulate the sticks mate, load of crap...improvement on a pad yes but rubbish if you're used to PC precision! from experience
Don't kid yourself; you'll shove the lid closed (if you can) and forget about it like the rest of us!
Hahaha..you got me
I'm no JaysTwoCents so there's no way I'm going to make it THAT clean.
Hahaha..you got me
I'm no JaysTwoCents so there's no way I'm going to make it THAT clean.
To be fair if you take a bit of time you can get it looking great, it helps air flow too...problem for me is the CPU fans and that kind of thing!
Well, no ones going to see the cables as they're all in the rear. And everything is watercooled so no issues with airflow in my case (pun intended). The rear doesn't matter if its hidden behind a case, provided the case panel is able to close.
Spend 20 minutes with a few cable ties and you'll be proper pleased with yourself
I'll post mine (if) my new motherboard and cable kit arrive by Friday
Spend 20 minutes with a few cable ties and you'll be proper pleased with yourself
I'll post mine (if) my new motherboard and cable kit arrive by Friday
Oh yeah I did buy a whole bunch of zip ties for that purpose with adhesive things. The bitfenix 2.0 cables I have are very neat. The rear will be neatened up a bit of course! I used the cable combs for the GPU 8 pin cables so they look neat. The rest can't really see from the front so its pretty clean anyway.
Look at my next update for a quick glance at my case
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UPDATE!!!! Loop filled!! (Andbthen leaked ) Air bled, Mayhems Blitz Pro Part 2
Interesting day today!
So I mixed 25ml of Mayhems Blitz Pro part 2 to 975ml of distilled water and filled my loop. Powered on the pumps and tried to bleed the loop...so far so good until I checked under the Koolance res and it appeared to have a very tiny leak but enough to drip fairly often. I took this opportunity to test the drain valve which worked like I imagined! Opening the fill ports of the reservoirs and the drain valve with a hose screwed into it and going into a container it poured straight out. I had about 2.5L of Blitz Pro part 2 solution (mixed with the DI water) in the loop and nearly all of it came out, enough so that I can take everything apart for cleaning and maintenance. So the outlet port on the Koolance res was leaking. I also have a Phobya temp sensor screwed into the outlet port and from there a fitting connecting to the hose going to the visual flow indicator.
Having removed it, I had a good look and the O ring looked fine. I rembered I had some PTFE tape lying around (used to make watertight seals around O rings on copper pipes) and wrapped that around the threads of the Phobya temp sensor and fitting and voila, fixed the leak! There were a couple other leaks which I just needed to fix by tightening fittings and in one case the visual flow indicator needed tightening, it gave me a scare as I thought my GPU blocks or SLI terminal bridge were leaking!
I also used a bit of tubing I poked through the fill port hole in the top of the case to fill the Aqualis reservoir as it was impossible to bleed the loop by just filling the Koolance res. Also that Koolance res with the dual d5 pumps performs amazingly! It pushes a LOT of fluid! I had to turn them down as the AquaComputer D5 mounted to the Aqualis res couldn't keep up (maybe it defaults to a really slow speed without the Aquaero plugged in). Even with the D5's cranked down and deciding to connect the Aquaero, I measured 190l/h with just one of the flow sensors!
After running the Mayhems Blitz Pro part 2 solution for an hour or 2, I noticed my Aqua computer Steel Mesh Filter was full of debris so the stuff really does work! And it's so easy to clean without even having to drain the loop! You can even close the valves on the back and it bypasses the filter from the loop and it can be done with the pumps running, however I felt the noise of the pumps change as well as the flow indicator slow down so clearly it is a bit restrictive doing it this way. Well for me with 3 D5's anyway
Also regarding the flow sensor noise; even with two of those I can't even hear them! In fact even the pumps are so quiet! I measured around 2300rpm on the pumps. Really happy with all the sound dampening I did on this case and the anti vibration feet I fitted as well.
All in all, very happy with this build now, got it semi working 6 months later! Phew
Ok now picture time!
Ignore the weird yellow/bronze/gold tint the camera picks up! It's actually completely clear/transparent!
) Air bled, Mayhems Blitz Pro Part 2Interesting day today!
So I mixed 25ml of Mayhems Blitz Pro part 2 to 975ml of distilled water and filled my loop. Powered on the pumps and tried to bleed the loop...so far so good until I checked under the Koolance res and it appeared to have a very tiny leak but enough to drip fairly often. I took this opportunity to test the drain valve which worked like I imagined! Opening the fill ports of the reservoirs and the drain valve with a hose screwed into it and going into a container it poured straight out. I had about 2.5L of Blitz Pro part 2 solution (mixed with the DI water) in the loop and nearly all of it came out, enough so that I can take everything apart for cleaning and maintenance. So the outlet port on the Koolance res was leaking. I also have a Phobya temp sensor screwed into the outlet port and from there a fitting connecting to the hose going to the visual flow indicator.
Having removed it, I had a good look and the O ring looked fine. I rembered I had some PTFE tape lying around (used to make watertight seals around O rings on copper pipes) and wrapped that around the threads of the Phobya temp sensor and fitting and voila, fixed the leak! There were a couple other leaks which I just needed to fix by tightening fittings and in one case the visual flow indicator needed tightening, it gave me a scare as I thought my GPU blocks or SLI terminal bridge were leaking!
I also used a bit of tubing I poked through the fill port hole in the top of the case to fill the Aqualis reservoir as it was impossible to bleed the loop by just filling the Koolance res. Also that Koolance res with the dual d5 pumps performs amazingly! It pushes a LOT of fluid! I had to turn them down as the AquaComputer D5 mounted to the Aqualis res couldn't keep up (maybe it defaults to a really slow speed without the Aquaero plugged in). Even with the D5's cranked down and deciding to connect the Aquaero, I measured 190l/h with just one of the flow sensors!
After running the Mayhems Blitz Pro part 2 solution for an hour or 2, I noticed my Aqua computer Steel Mesh Filter was full of debris so the stuff really does work! And it's so easy to clean without even having to drain the loop! You can even close the valves on the back and it bypasses the filter from the loop and it can be done with the pumps running, however I felt the noise of the pumps change as well as the flow indicator slow down so clearly it is a bit restrictive doing it this way. Well for me with 3 D5's anyway
Also regarding the flow sensor noise; even with two of those I can't even hear them! In fact even the pumps are so quiet! I measured around 2300rpm on the pumps. Really happy with all the sound dampening I did on this case and the anti vibration feet I fitted as well.
All in all, very happy with this build now, got it semi working 6 months later! Phew
Ok now picture time!
Ignore the weird yellow/bronze/gold tint the camera picks up! It's actually completely clear/transparent!
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Soldato
Looking good. A disturbing amount of metal filings after the flush but at least the filter caught them. If you've still got it empty it may be an idea to check that none of them are caught in the pumps. I don't know about D5s but on a DDC there is a separate rotor that sits on a bearing and is spun electromagnetically. Because the rotor is a magnet, it can 'grab' metal filings as the come past and you don't want them abrading the bearing or any other part. If the filter is before the pump's, you're probably fine.
One thing to note though. The valves on the filter don't bypass the filter, they're just ball valves and shut off the inlet and the outlet (one valve each). The change of pitch of your pumps will have been because the flow stopped but the pumps were still trying to push the coolant.
One thing to note though. The valves on the filter don't bypass the filter, they're just ball valves and shut off the inlet and the outlet (one valve each). The change of pitch of your pumps will have been because the flow stopped but the pumps were still trying to push the coolant.
It was flushed! Several times with hot water and Mayhems Blitz Part 1 and just now Part 2.
This crap is the result of Mayhems Blitz Pro rather than not being flushed. Thats the point of it, to loosen and remove crap normal flushing can't get out.
So I recommend Mayhem's Blitz Pro. The bottom 480 and 240 are XSPC, one of the cleanest rad makers . It's probably the top Magiccool rad as they tend to be not as clean and its new. I was suspicious as to why when I used Part 1 not much came out of that rad...
Yup the D5's are the same, huge electromagnet with a seperate removable impellor. The filter is before all 3 pumps luckily, that's how I wanted to do it to prevent this exact issue! Well worth it.
You're right. I was writing this up really late and since I have pumps all over the place I didn't take into account that water was still flowing because theres 3 pumps and probably some air left to bleed hence why the flow appeared to be moving!
Filled with coolant! Added Koolance QDC
So I've filled the loop with Mayhems X1 and dropped a couple UV CCFLs in temporarily and I looks great!
I also have UV LED Strips and I plan to get some more 3mm and 5mm UV LED diodes to poke into the blocks, and in the Koolance Bay res etc depending on how many I can cram in without running out of Molex power connectors and hopefully being able to tuck away the cables somewhere.
I'm going to use the CCFL lamps in my build as well and try to place them where they work best.
I'm about to plug it all up, fit the aquaero (temporarily fan y cables until my Phobya 9x y cables arrive) and see what it sounds like, however its very quiet and I'm quite happy with it!
Also I put in a Koolacee QDC as you can see to aid in some draining and to pull the res out in case I need to.
So I've filled the loop with Mayhems X1 and dropped a couple UV CCFLs in temporarily and I looks great!
I also have UV LED Strips and I plan to get some more 3mm and 5mm UV LED diodes to poke into the blocks, and in the Koolance Bay res etc depending on how many I can cram in without running out of Molex power connectors and hopefully being able to tuck away the cables somewhere.
I'm going to use the CCFL lamps in my build as well and try to place them where they work best.
I'm about to plug it all up, fit the aquaero (temporarily fan y cables until my Phobya 9x y cables arrive) and see what it sounds like, however its very quiet and I'm quite happy with it!
Also I put in a Koolacee QDC as you can see to aid in some draining and to pull the res out in case I need to.
It's alive!!
So I powered up the pc and everything fired up! Phew!
Some issue with the USB3 ports however which I'll need to look at. I've looked at the 1366 X58 Xeon 5650 thread where someone had this issue for years until they upgraded to a Xeon and realised their PCIe frequency was set to 101 mhz instead of 100 mhz! Or something to that effect.
I've set all my settings to default so now I think its a PCIe lanes issue. I've got two GTX 980ti's using 16x + 8x (probably 8 not 16 or even 8x+8x). And 8x for the OCZ Revodrive 350. Then the USB3 chip which is a NEC chip (one of those earlier ones, its a bit crap but a premium back then) and a Marvell SATA controller. So probably on the higher limit of the lane limit.
I'll try disabling the Marvel (only use a Samsung bluray drive so it'll go on the Intel one) and maybe a few other unnecessary things (firewire, urghhhhhh!)
So I powered up the pc and everything fired up! Phew!
Some issue with the USB3 ports however which I'll need to look at. I've looked at the 1366 X58 Xeon 5650 thread where someone had this issue for years until they upgraded to a Xeon and realised their PCIe frequency was set to 101 mhz instead of 100 mhz! Or something to that effect.I've set all my settings to default so now I think its a PCIe lanes issue. I've got two GTX 980ti's using 16x + 8x (probably 8 not 16 or even 8x+8x). And 8x for the OCZ Revodrive 350. Then the USB3 chip which is a NEC chip (one of those earlier ones, its a bit crap but a premium back then) and a Marvell SATA controller. So probably on the higher limit of the lane limit.
I'll try disabling the Marvel (only use a Samsung bluray drive so it'll go on the Intel one) and maybe a few other unnecessary things (firewire, urghhhhhh!)
Soldato
How goes it? Gaming yet? Did you get the lanes issue sorted?
Haha oh yeah lack of response due to overclocking and gaming
I don't think it was a lane issue, it might have been stability. It's disappeared now, with unstable clocks I noticed it happens again. Seems to be USB only though, but I tried both USB 2.0 and the USB 3.0 NEC chip.
Waiting for the fan splitters to arrive so I can clean up all the cables and get all fans powered, I'm running with half of them off, temps hitting 35 degrees on load! On idle they're about 30 degrees. Expect it to drop when it cools down a bit. Those are normal temps for that room as my old loop had the same temps, and it's surrounded by a few microservers and a QNAP 8 bay nas and that room gets quite stuffy, so temps appear to be good.
Overclocked the X5690 to 4.2Ghz, getting temps of 67 degrees at full load, tried pushing to 4.6 but with 1.4 vcore and 1.4vtt and still hitting only about 70 degrees at full load but still not stable enough, I dialled it back. This CPU can do it but I just need to find the right settings. Currently hovering around the 21/22 multiplier (It has a max multiplier of 27!)
Overclocked the two GTX 980Ti OC Strix GPU's, so far the boost clock to 1391mhz and 8000mhz memory on both. In games it boosts to 1455 mhz without a sweat, so hoping to set boost to 1500, temps are really really good!
Only game I've tried it on is Tom Clancy's the Division with a custom SLI profile, but still this game doesn't work very well with SLI, I'm only getting 63fps! Expect more from an SLI optimised game hopefully...
Might buy Battlefield 1 and maybe Doom 4 and give them a shot.
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Soldato
Hey man is that 13/19mm hose and fittings you are using?
Love the rig too. Hoses are growing on me again.
Love the rig too. Hoses are growing on me again.
Cheers!
And Yep
.13/19 Primoflex Advanced LRT tubing!
The bend radius is really really good before it starts to kink compared to the cheapo xspc stuff I was using before!
My next one will be PETG or Acrylic for sure, but it'll have to be in some monster giant case. Will probably wait for the Pascal Ti editions!
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Associate
- Joined
- 29 Jun 2016
- Posts
- 65
Beautiful! Love the UV glow 
Beautiful! Love the UV glow
Thanks, I've improved it a bit by adding CableMod WideBeam Magnetic LED Strips! I realised my case isn't Magnetic LOL so had to stick on some no more nails double sided tape! So far so good. Will need to post an update when I'm free.
I currently have an issue with the GPU's bending! I've looked at finding some gpu supports that attach to the pcie mounts and are basically a piece of acrylic with straighten them up but not sure if they would work with my SLI setup, I think they need 2 pci slots free underneath. I have 1 free slot between the GPU's but there is the Parallel Plexi SLI Terminal Block between the GPU's and an PCie SSD in the bottom slot under the 2nd GPU so not sure how I can do it besides ruining the aesthetic with zip tie or chopsticks or something lol...