Spec me a good temp probe?

Soldato
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There doesn't seem to be THAT great a selection from what I can see, and I'm not sure what's good and what's not? I wish EK did them, as my whole loop is going to consist of their stuff (nickel) so I would like something that doesn't clash too much or stick out like a sore thumb. I was planning on fitting it to one of the G1/4" ports on the EK-AF X-Splitter 4F, which I assume is OK. Any recommendations?
 
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I use an XSPC LCD jobby. The probe is on a dark nicel G1/4" plug that I have installed into one of the in ports on my reservoir. It doesn't have any branding so shouldn't stick out too much. The only issue I have with them is that the LEDs fade after time and the power connection is a bit weak so I have cable tied it to relieve stress on wiring.
 
Soldato
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Thanks, I wasn't crazy on those LCD screens, but I do see the advantage. I had seen a Phobya one (pictured below) which looks innocuous enough. I presume this would just go in to the motherboard somewhere?

The other thing I wanted to check is that would a probe like this go directly in to the X-Splitter I have, or would I first connect an HDC fitting to the splitter and then put the probe on to that? It looks like the length of the probe might go in quite far so I'd want to have it a bit further out?

phobya.jpg
 
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Try a probe that's built into a stop plug if you have an unused port on a res or rad somewhere.

I have 2 ports on top of my Aquacomputer Eco 100 res that aren't being used so one's a fillport and the other will contain a long probe plug.

Given that coolant temps will equalise across the entire loop I don't see why you couldn't just plug up any spare port with one of these, if there's the space internally of course.
 
Soldato
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As mentioned, I have an unused port on one of these...

WC943EK_120735_800x800.jpg


But I wasn't sure if the probe I linked would go directly into this or if I'd need to attach another fitting to it first due to the length of the probe?
 
Soldato
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Yeah that makes sense... figured the Phobya one might be an issue with blocking flow. So the lower profile ones should fit fine on the EK X-Splitter I have then? And the other end goes on to the motherboard right? Can I monitor that from within Windows?
 
Soldato
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Does your motherboard have a header for a temp probe? Calibrated for 10k Ohm at 25C?

Cause I've never heard of one with such a header.

Well they must be designed to go somewhere? Otherwise why would they exist? Someone must know surely...? Fan header maybe?
 
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Does your motherboard have a header for a temp probe? Calibrated for 10k Ohm at 25C?

Cause I've never heard of one with such a header.

Well they must be designed to go somewhere? Otherwise why would they exist? Someone must know surely...? Fan header maybe?

The Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO definitely has one, but it doesn't say how it's calibrated so would have to try one to see if it's accurate... Other than that there's always the Aquaero, quite expensive but a cracking bit of kit :)
 
Soldato
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I have the new MSI X99A Titanium... quick look through the manual doesn't reveal such a connector, unless it's called something specific that isn't immediately obvious to me?
 
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Some fan controllers have headers for temp sensors. The Aquaero definitely does and it is good....but not cheap. Most of the other Aqua Computer stuff also has temp sensors too though so if any of that is of use, you can plug it in there. Off the top of my head:

PowerAdjust - single voltage controlled header with a temp probe input. If you buy the Ultra version you can control fan speed based on temp. The Standard cannot unless it is plugged into an Aquaero.

Farbwerk - RGB strip light controller but also has temp sensors.

High Flow USB - measure your coolant flow but also has temp sensor input as well as an internal temp sensor (for coolant)

Aqualis XT reservoir - fill level sensor (based on pressure) , internal temp and external temp header.

All these can be run off an internal USB header without needing an Aquaero - or they can team up with an Aquaero of you want....makes it all independent of Windows.
 
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I went with an Aquaero 5 LT and a Farbwerk in my last build (think Cenedd was the one who convinced me!) and must say he was right, brilliant bits of kit sold by a top salesman :p

The software can look a bit daunting at first but once you've figured it all out it becomes simple as anything. I currently have separate fan profiles set up on the Aquaero for 360mm rad fans, 240mm rad fans and exhaust fan all going off water temperature rather than a single component, plus switched the front power LED out for an RGB one, which now changes colour and brightness depending on temperature of the loop. Find this far more subtle than a massive LCD display, but a quick glance and you can instantly tell the water temp to within a degree or 2 :)
 
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