Rewiring my home and networking at the same time

Soldato
Joined
29 Dec 2012
Posts
4,091
Hi Guys,

At the moment I could get away with a basic network (just using the router provided and a few after market addons) but I have chosen to rewire my house and thanks to a few helpful people on here I'm going to get the networking done at the same time, the issue is this task is much bigger then my knowledge, this may allow the person networking to do a poor job if i don't know any better, i'm doing a bit more research so I know what he's doing is correct,

I will be providing my own equipment so I know what i'm getting and and hopefully also save some money.

Here is the equipment ive been advised to get.

Tools
Punchdown tool link
Side cutters/snips link
Cyclops stripper (nice to have) link
Ethernet cable tester link
Ultra fine sharpie for marking cables as you install them


Parts
Cat6 RJ45 modules and faceplates (buy CCS branded stuff)
Cat6 24 port patch panel (buy CCS branded stuff)
Cat6 cable 305M reel (buy CCS branded stuff)
100x2.5MM black cable ties (x100 pack)

Metal backbox/drylin backbox/surface mount backbox (multiple of whichever types you'll need)

Thanks to the people on here I have have a better idea, but still have some issues and questions.

Here is what im not sure of and a few issues i have,


1. im not sure how i want to do, or were to place everything.
1a. the layout of the house will be changing, some rooms are getting altered and extended, so I currently don't know were everything will be, mostly brick at this moment but I need to plan at this point.

2. my farther does not see the point of me spending for something like this but i'm assuming it will be a good investment.

3. I have no idea were i should keep the network, at the moment I just connect to the modem.

4. how can i still get good wifi

5. How can i future proof it for atleast 5-10 years ?
5a. will it be fine with fiber
5b. can I add more port to the module
5c will this equipment fine

6. I've been advised to get CCS or Excel equipment,
6a. does it matter which i get out of the 2 ?
6b. where is the best value place to get this? (am i allowed to ask this)

7. Should i go for cat6e or should i get something better ?
7a. is all CCS or Excel cable Shielded ?

8. Cat6 RJ45 modules and faceplates,
8a. Would i need 1 cable even if i choose to have more then one port or would i need multiple cables for multiple ports ?

9. port patch panel
9a. what is it ?
9b. will i still need a switch ?
9c. will i need a rack or

am i forgetting anything ?
 
Associate
Joined
19 Sep 2014
Posts
630
I did all this last year to my new build house. Potentially a lot more than what you are intending on placing into yours but I will share with you my approach and answer your questions. I'll also link to a copy of my plan which was followed.

Just a few comments on your component selection:

- You can just use masking tape to ID the cables, no need for fiddly writing on cables. Or you can get cheap ID cable crimps like these:

CM00K_GP2CS.jpg



- Faceplates, patch panels etc. I use Assynia. Quite good quality.

- Don't use cable ties, use velcro ties. Cable ties goes against recommended installation procedures for CAT cable.

- Back boxes - go for 35mm ones


And now onto the questions...


1) Everything? You want to find a reasonably central but cool place for your rack. You may be able to get away with a loft but they can get pretty hot in the summer and your switch/router may not appreciate it. My two wall mount 19" brackets (one for patching, one for networking devices) is it a cupboard above my stairs on the first floor. I'll show you a photo below.

2) I'm not sure i'd listen to my dad on things like this.

3) What do you mean by keep the network? The network should be everywhere! To give you an idea, my modem is under the stairs and the router is in the rack upstairs.

4) By placing access points in appropriate locations. If your house is mainly brick, you may want one AP on each floor, or if it's particularly long, possibly multiples on each floor.

5) Future proof against what? I doubt people will be commonly running more than 10 gigabit ethernet in their homes in the next ten years. CAT5e is certified for 10 gigabit up to 45 metres, and CAT6 55 metres. If none of the runs in your home are more than 45 metres then I would recommended just installing CAT5e instead of CAT6. There's very little benefit in going for the more expensive and complicated cable to install. CAT6 is more fussy about how you install it and is really unnecessary. That said, I used CAT6 in my house, but it wasn't for logical reasons.

6) It really doesn't matter, they all do the job. As said before, I use Assynia which is mid-high range kit, but as I don't have loads of it it didn't cost too much. Three boxes of CAT6 were used, a couple of patch panels and a load of face plates.

7) As above CAT6 doesn't give you much above CAT5e. It gives you nothing if none of your runs are more than 45 metres.

8) You run one cable per port. I highly recommend running at least two cables to each port. You will ALWAYS need more than you think, especially in high density areas for devices, like near the TV/AV equipment.

9) A patch panel is where all your structured cabling (the stuff in the walls going to your faceplates) gets presented in one place. Then you use normal patch leads to go from the patch panel to your network devices (switch, router etc).


Forgetting anything?

- Alarm cabling?

- Speaker cabling?

- Smart home cabling?

- CCTV cabling?

Etc.


Have a look at my plan I created:

http://di.cx/stuff/house_floorplan_draft_v1.7_snagging.pdf


And here's a couple of photos of my comms cupboard:



8LyXFr6.jpg

DHyYK97.jpg


Patch panel isn't finished yet. Gotta sort out all the co-ax stuff and mount my multiswitch (for TV).


Feel free to ask any questions.
 
Last edited:
Soldato
Joined
17 Jun 2007
Posts
9,302
Slight Hijack but I think its relevant to the OP and My setup.


My home office is ready for connecting up. I've installed Cat6 throughout the house and a 24 port patch panel will do (just)

So I connect all the Cat6 to faceplates in the walls. Then connect the other ends to a patch panel (Under the stairs etc)

Do I just connect the Modem/Router to any port? I take it ALL ports are connected and shared across the panel.

Do I also need a switch? Or is a switch only needed if I want to manage the network.

If I connect 24 cables to the rear of the panel. What are 24 RJ45 sockets at the from for.
 
Don
Joined
21 Oct 2002
Posts
46,753
Location
Parts Unknown
Each port in the panel is independent. All the panel does is keeps the cable ends neat.

Typically now what you would do is buy a 24 port switch.

Connect the router to one port in the switch, then connect each patch panel port to a switch port.
 
Soldato
Joined
17 Jun 2007
Posts
9,302
Each port in the panel is independent. All the panel does is keeps the cable ends neat.

Typically now what you would do is buy a 24 port switch.

Connect the router to one port in the switch, then connect each patch panel port to a switch port.

Cheers.

I get it now.

What size cabinet would you recommend. May end up with a NAS and back up drive etc.
 
Don
Joined
21 Oct 2002
Posts
46,753
Location
Parts Unknown
6U, depth, up to you, depends on your switch depth.

Personally, I didn't bother with a cabinet, went for a Lack table from Ikea instead.. Then I chopped it to size and strengthened the legs with wood.

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Whitewood-PSE-44x44x1800mm-Single/p/107035
This fits perfectly inside the legs and the top if you decide to cut that too.


https://wiki.eth0.nl/index.php/LackRack

-edit, not the best photo :D but you get the idea.

5uaol4d.jpg

I had limited vertical space, so I cut my Lack to fit.
 
Last edited:
Soldato
Joined
17 Jun 2007
Posts
9,302
Thanks Bledd. Order placed

6U Data Cabinet 550mm x 450mm 19-inch Wall Mounted CAB-W6U-EL450 ( 1)

LMS Data 6-Way 1U 19-inch Horizontal Rackmount PDU W/ Surge Protection (UK Socket to UK Plug) PDU-6WS-H-SP-1U ( 1)

LMS Data PPAN-24-C6-BB 24-Port CAT6 Unshielded Patch Panel, 19-inch, 1U, Rackmount, Horizontal Punch ( 1)

Ubiquiti ES-24-LITE EdgeSwitch 24-Port Layer 2 Managed Stackable Gigabit Switch w/ 2x SFP Ports ( 1)

And a load of other bits too.:eek::D
 
Soldato
OP
Joined
29 Dec 2012
Posts
4,091
Im thinking of getting few year old used switch to save some money, would that be a issue ?

Brand im looking at dell or netgear

only gigabit
 
Soldato
Joined
20 Oct 2008
Posts
12,096
If it's not in the specs then a visual inspection is the only real option, but no guarantee as the fans could be buried inside.

The older it is the more likely it is to have fans.

Anything reasonably modern, excluding the exotic and POE, will usually be fanless. Modern switches consume less power and generate less heat to they don't need fans.

Fans only matter if the switch is going to be in earshot. For domestic use where they won't be heavily loaded you can usually just disconnect them and hope for the best.
 
Soldato
OP
Joined
29 Dec 2012
Posts
4,091
just need a little more advice, do i need a 24 port or 48 port switch ?

from my count it looks like I will have 24 connections, + the router and I'm also considering connection up a network printer directly to the switch so its in a central location ?

I was also considering getting a used gigabit switch, any brands i should avoid and what is the oldest I should go ?
 
Don
Joined
21 Oct 2002
Posts
46,753
Location
Parts Unknown
Why look second hand..?

Something like the TP Link TL-SG1024 would be perfect. For an unmanaged switch, they're all exactly the same tbh.

No point getting 48 port unless you have 48 wall ports. Needless expense to get the extra. It's unlikely you'll use ALL 24. Just patch the ones in that you want live.
 
Soldato
OP
Joined
29 Dec 2012
Posts
4,091
The reason I was looking at 2nd hand was i could get a good gigabit model for less half the price. I was getting prices like £150+ but the model you have suggested looks good.


I will have 24 wall ports in total, Its unlikely I will use all 24 but it would be a bit annoying if I wanted to use one and find out its not connected.

I could always connect a few things directly in to the router I assume
 
Back
Top Bottom