4.00GHz on E8600 + Asus P5Q-E (for the noobs)

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This thread is intended for newcomers to the Asus P5Q-E / Intel E8600 combo and hopefully start them out on the right foot to achieving a basic 4.00GHz overclock. I believe any E8600 will easily do 4.00GHz and higher, but to get the best out of it you should consider updating the BIOS because your current BIOS may be old. My board shipped with 0605. Since then, there's been many updates, and a good number of those are to fix compatibility issues with various memory brands.

I would welcome any tips from other P5Q users as I am a newcomer to this setup myself, too.




E8600 (week 20) on Asus P5Q-E • BIOS settings for 4.00GHz
BIOS used: m1306. These are the latest Asus BIOS and have been modified by Ket at XS forums to be compatible with more CPU's and more memory brands.




Ai Tweaker (Tab)

Ai Overclocking Tuner ...... [Manual]
CPU Ratio Setting .......... [Auto]
FSB Frequency .............. [400]
PCIE Frequency ............. [101]
FSB Strap To North Bridge .. [Auto]
DRAM Frequency ............. [Fastest your RAM can run]
DRAM CLK Skew .............. [Auto]
DRAM Timing Control ........ [Manual to OC, otherwise Auto]

* Make adjustments to memory timings if necessary,
then scroll down with your arrow keys to the voltage section *
________________________________

CPU Voltage ................ [1.28125] (actual voltage = 1.248v idle / 1.256v load in CPU-Z)
CPU GTL Reference (0/2) .... [Auto]
CPU GTL Reference (1/3) .... [Auto]
CPU PLL Voltage ............ [1.52]
FSB Termination Voltage .... [1.12]
DRAM Voltage ............... [Whatever your RAM needs]
NB Voltage ................. [1.12]

* All other settings in this section are AUTO *

________________________________

Load-Line Calibration ...... [Enabled]
CPU Spread Spectrum ........ [Disabled]
PCIE Spread Spectrum ....... [Disabled]
CPU Clock Skew ............. [Auto]
NB Clock Skew .............. [Auto]
CPU Margin Enhancement ..... [Performance Mode]
______________________________

Advanced (Tab) > CPU Configuration

CPU Ratio Setting .......... [Auto]
C1E Support ................ [Enabled]
Max CPUID Limit ............ [Disabled]
Intel Virtualization Tech .. [Disabled]
CPU TM Function ............ [Enabled]
Intel SpeedStep ............ [Enabled]
Intel C-STATE Tech ......... [Enabled]


The result of these settings is a clock frequency of 4.00GHz and automatic lowering of the multiplier when the processor is idle, that's why you'll see x6.0 instead of x10 in CPU-Z when the CPU is not under load. Personally, I like SpeedStep and I can't understand why anyone running the CPU at it's default multiplier would want to disable it, unless it affects overclocking, which for me it never has on this Intel system or my previous AMD systems (Cool 'n' Quiet). To enable power saving mode fully, go to your Windows Control Panel and look under Power Options. Set the Power Scheme to Minimal Power Management. Click Apply > OK.

As for memory settings, it all depends on your RAM, of course. While you stabilize your CPU overclock, you may want to set your memory to a low speed, somewhere close to the default speed the manufacturer intended it to run at. Once you've stabilized the CPU (I recommend IntelBurnTest more than any other program right now -- it's extremely quick to find errors), you can max out your RAM performance.

I am using 2*1GB Crucial Ballistix DDR2-800 (single sided modules, which are supposed to be crap, apparently) which does around DDR2-1066 on stock voltage. That doesn't seem like crap to me. I am able to run it at 5-5-5-15 with almost all sub-timings lowered by 1 notch. Command Rate is 2T. I can also set it to Performance Level 6. If you've ever wondered why Asus P5Q series boards don't offer a great deal of memory bandwidth, it's because Asus set the Performance Level very conservatively. To achieve higher bandwidth, you need to play with Performance Level. Here's how:

Download MemSet, install, reboot, then run the program.
See Performance Level (mine was set on 10 originally).
In the drop-down box, lower it by one number.
Check performance in Everest memory benchmarks or your chosen application. I also like to use SuperPi.
Keep lowering the PL number and keep checking the results.
... At some point, Windows will freeze.
Reset the PC manually and enter BIOS. Under Ai Tweaker (tab), go to Ai Transaction Booster and set the Performance Level to the last stable number that worked before the freeze. Press F10 > Enter to exit and reboot.

You should also play with the memory settings in BIOS. I was able to enable Pull-ins and set Ai Clock Twister to Strong. This also helped improve memory bandwidth.

NOTE: This OC was done using the stock cooler, plus no more than the maximum recommended voltage printed on the Intel box (1.26V). Just because mine can do it doesn't mean everyone's will. Unless you're daring, raise the FSB Frequency in steps of 100MHz and stress test it for stability, don't just jump to 4.00GHz. Nothing is guaranteed, and if your PC explodes, it's not my fault!

On a more serious note, the P5Q series is excellent in recovering from a bad overclock. If your system won't POST after a BIOS settings change, power it off and try again in a few seconds. The last settings you entered will be retained, but the board will boot with default settings. Marvellous stuff. If it still won't POST, unplug the power cable, press the power switch a few times to discharge any current, and clear CMOS using the jumper on the motherboard. You may possibly have to remove the battery for a few minutes, too. Personally I have had no problems with a non-POSTing board. Again, overclock carefully, one step at a time. Once you have a rock solid, stable overclock, save the profile under the Tools section of your BIOS.

Good luck! :)
 
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Nice writeup.

A couple of things to note with the P5Q Series.

1) NEVER leave voltages at AUTO or the default "minimum"...doing so will ridiculously overvolt that setting. Doesn't make sense, but that's what it does. Example: Setting CPU PLL to 1.5 (minimum) will result in 1.8V PLL which most people are not comfortable running...so set to either 1.52V or 1.54V, this actually still overvolts by about .02V so 1.52 will result in 1.54V actual, 1.54 to 1.56V actual...etc

From what I've seen:

-Vddr overvolts by .08V so 2.1V = 2.18V real
-Vnb overvolts by .02V (With all dimms full I use 1.24-1.26V for 480-500fsb, less is needed with only 2 DIMMS)
-Vtt (termination voltage) overvolts by about .02V (I use 1.14V for 4ghz and 1.24V for 4.45ghz)
-CPU PLL overvolts by .02V (as stated before I use about 1.52-1.54V)

The voltages I do usually leave on auto are: SB voltage, PCI-E voltage

2) One of the critical factors to higher FSBs on these boards is the Performance Level setting. A general rule of thumb I use is:

400-450FSB = PL7
450-485FSB = PL8
485-500FSB = PL9
500-550 = PL10

Settings will vary according to memory frequency and the actual brand and model of memory you have. Just remember to use a conservative PL setting if you are having problems hitting higher FSBs.
 
Nice writeup.

A couple of things to note with the P5Q Series.

1) NEVER leave voltages at AUTO or the default "minimum"...doing so will ridiculously overvolt that setting. Doesn't make sense, but that's what it does. Example: Setting CPU PLL to 1.5 (minimum) will result in 1.8V PLL which most people are not comfortable running...so set to either 1.52V or 1.54V, this actually still overvolts by about .02V so 1.52 will result in 1.54V actual, 1.54 to 1.56V actual...etc

From what I've seen:

-Vddr overvolts by .08V so 2.1V = 2.18V real
-Vnb overvolts by .02V (With all dimms full I use 1.24-1.26V for 480-500fsb, less is needed with only 2 DIMMS)
-Vtt (termination voltage) overvolts by about .02V (I use 1.14V for 4ghz and 1.24V for 4.45ghz)
-CPU PLL overvolts by .02V (as stated before I use about 1.52-1.54V)

The voltages I do usually leave on auto are: SB voltage, PCI-E voltage

2) One of the critical factors to higher FSBs on these boards is the Performance Level setting. A general rule of thumb I use is:

400-450FSB = PL7
450-485FSB = PL8
485-500FSB = PL9
500-550 = PL10

Settings will vary according to memory frequency and the actual brand and model of memory you have. Just remember to use a conservative PL setting if you are having problems hitting higher FSBs.

Excellent info. I was aware of the Auto/overvolting already, thanks to various forums around the net who mentioned it, that's why I set most voltages to just above their Auto settings, but people should definitely take note of your post if they don't know this stuff already. Good stuff, gurusan.

The one that came with the mobo, V 1.01g

That sounds like the board revision, not the BIOS? Chances are you're on 0605. Look in CPU-Z's "Mainboard" tab to see the BIOS info. If you're on an old one, you should probably update. Latest is 1306.
 
It locks it close to it's recommended setting (100). As stated previously, it's better not to trust the board's Auto settings.
 
I've got 41mins so far in orthos at 4.2Ghz, but thats with crappy 1.41V.

Weird thing is, when PL is set to 9 the pc wont boot at all, have to set it to 10 to get it to boot, any idea what the PL setting is doing to make it boot? I need to get the PL down.

Currently at 467*9.
 
A lower PL (higher numbers = lower PL) doesn't drive the RAM so hard. Have you tried setting the RAM to a lower speed? Also, is the 1.41V set in BIOS or what CPU-Z tells you? Actual vCore may be lower than stated in BIOS.
 
the lowest i can get my rams PL is 10, i lock up at 9

How do i now fix this to 10, is there a bios setting for it.

sorry found it in origonl post


Bowza
 
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hmm I can get 4ghz with most settings set to auto using 500 x 8 @ 1.3 with a E8500 E0 if I set the voltages as you have suggested one of them (dunno which) stops me booting (blank screen) I'm using OCZ PC8500 platinum any suggestions?
 
In BIOS I think I am around 1.42 V, idle 1.400V, load 1.416V solid.

I have my PL at 10, orthos has been going 1 hour 45mins so far at 4.2Ghz.

My ram is PC8500 5-5-5-15 G.Skill 2x2GB, its currently at 467*2, 5-5-5-15.

All in all this mobo is a lot better than my P45 Platinum was, just the larger user base for this mobo alone makes it better.

When and if orthos fails I'll go take some screenshots of my bios settings and post em.

Godsbrother, Auto is bad in case you did not know it already, think its been stated, everything gets overvolted.
 
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