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Old 5th Apr 2009, 21:19   #1
manic111
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Clio overheating - advice?

Hi there, I've just been doing a heck of a lot of clutch control and reversing to try and fit my 2001 Clio Grande into a remarkably small space, and the engine was overheating pretty badly - the fan was running for a good 10 minutes after switching the engine off.

Is this a problem, or is it just me being a worryer? What do I need to check? If the engine coolant is low is it OK to top it up with water, or do I need to take it to a garage?
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Old 5th Apr 2009, 21:23   #2
ScoobyDoo69
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Were you revving the nuts off it whilst doing this "clutch control" ?

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Old 5th Apr 2009, 21:23   #3
BigglesPiP
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Fan running != overheating.

What did the temperature gauge say?


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Old 5th Apr 2009, 21:31   #4
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Originally Posted by BigglesPiP View Post
Fan running != overheating.

What did the temperature gauge say?
+1

The radiator needs airflow over it to work effectively, so if youre not moving then the fan needs to run
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Old 5th Apr 2009, 21:31   #5
chumpit
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um with out being their,
its most likely a air blockage...
run the engine with the coolant lid of and gently undo the radiot bleed valve with a long flat head screw driver till just water with no bubbles comes out.
if tha tdosnt happen empty the system and refill and try again.
and if that dosnt work take to mechanic to check thermostat/ gauges..
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Old 5th Apr 2009, 21:32   #6
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+1

The radiator needs airflow over it to work effectively, so if youre not moving then the fan needs to run
not completely true the fan works as a suction heat disperser, so unless hes reving the balls of it he shouldnt over heat on a reverse.
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Old 5th Apr 2009, 21:35   #7
manic111
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Originally Posted by ScoobyDoo69 View Post
Were you revving the nuts off it whilst doing this "clutch control" ?
Nope, going pretty easy on it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigglesPiP
Fan running != overheating.

What did the temperature gauge say?
Not sure what the temp gauge said - was just a bit worried as I hadn't heard the fan running that strongly after turning off the engine before.

I'll check the coolant tomorrow. If it does need topping up what do I need to do?
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Old 5th Apr 2009, 21:36   #8
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Nope, going pretty easy on it.



Not sure what the temp gauge said - was just a bit worried as I hadn't heard the fan running that strongly after turning off the engine before.

I'll check the coolant tomorrow. If it does need topping up what do I need to do?
get water> undo lid. fill to just below max marker. add some antifreaze/ sumer coolant>refit lid> profit
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Old 5th Apr 2009, 21:38   #9
manic111
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Awesome, cheers matey. I'll have a look tomorrow morning and give you a shout when the whole thing blows up
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Old 5th Apr 2009, 21:43   #10
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What engine? Its supprising how quickly they can heat-up, im not so clued up on the newer clios but the some of the old (MK1) Clios used to run the aux waterpump (always) + fan (temp dependant iirc) for around 8 mins after the car was switched off.


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Old 5th Apr 2009, 21:45   #11
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Awesome, cheers matey. I'll have a look tomorrow morning and give you a shout when the whole thing blows up
Sweet baby jesus.. what ever you do DO NOT remove the cap when the engine is hot.

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Old 5th Apr 2009, 21:48   #12
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Couldn't tell you to be honest - it was about 8 minutes before it turned off though, so that could be the answer!

EDIT: Taken, I know that much Don't worry, I meant tomorrow morning before I take it to work!
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Old 5th Apr 2009, 21:49   #13
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Awesome, cheers matey. I'll have a look tomorrow morning and give you a shout when the whole thing blows up
shouldnt blow up, if its low top it up and keep a eye on it i.e check it again in the week, if its dropped signifcatly....
park the car on a dry patch of road, run the engine then leave it. come back later pref over night and you may see a puddle.

if you have a puddle, check all the pipes leading to and from the raidiator to the engine and fill pot/ water pump, for cracks or looseness. if their not check to see if theirs any water marks around your water pump, i.e clean or streaky oil. marks
if their is get a haynes manual , remove cover protecting cames, and get the waterpump serial number. DO NOT RELY ON ENGINE SIZE THE 1.6 ENGINE IN THE RENUALT MEGANE HAS SODDING DIFFERENT TYPES OF WATER PUMP.
buy water pump of ebay, mine cost me 30 much cheaper than renault.
buy blue gasket paste. and tip-ex. mark the points on ur cams for future referance incase u move them by accident. remove belt. remove dodgy water pump. clean area of old gasket. fit new pump with new gasket. fit timing belt, refill with water, run car and bleed radiator, check that car is running smoothly, re fit cam pulley protetor. spend 3 hours removing grime from fingernails
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Old 5th Apr 2009, 21:50   #14
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Sweet baby jesus.. what ever you do DO NOT remove the cap when the engine is hot.
i said befor ethe engine is warm.....
it will not explode in your face for god sake...
if your doing it when hot remove with a blanket or towel..
only presurised systems have the tendancy to explode.

and last time i checked the clio wasnt a super tuned sports engined car.
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Old 5th Apr 2009, 21:53   #15
manic111
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Cheers for the help chaps, much appreciated - I'll check it out tomorrow morning (when cold) and leave a message to let you know if there's an issue! Thanks again
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Old 5th Apr 2009, 21:57   #16
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i said befor ethe engine is warm.....
it will not explode in your face for god sake...
if your doing it when hot remove with a blanket or towel..
only presurised systems have the tendancy to explode.

and last time i checked the clio wasnt a super tuned sports engined car.
I missed that bit

Surely all Rad systems are pressurised? , I was assuming that the OP knew nothing about mechanics.. if he average Joe removing a hot cap and getting a facefull of hiss and steam I'd rather warn him about it first

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Old 5th Apr 2009, 21:59   #17
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no problem matey, ive had issues with over heating with my mates renault megane, he got a mechanic to fit a new radiator, the muppet only used water. so come winter the whole water cooling system frozes was hilarious at the side of the rod with the coolant tank cap spewing out steam to keep use warm. as we wait for the hot water to finally melt the ice in the exfill pipe
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Old 5th Apr 2009, 22:00   #18
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I missed that bit

Surely all Rad systems are pressurised? , I was assuming that the OP knew nothing about mechanics.. if he average Joe removing a hot cap and getting a facefull of hiss and steam I'd rather warn him about it first
well sorry if i was snappy... the pressure in a standered car isnt enoth to expolde in your face, maybe spurt out 2 miles above the head thats it. on race engines and superpsports theirs a big differance in pressure as the water has to do twice as much work.

so if ur cars over heating and you need to remove the cap fast to get rid of heat before it destroys your head gasket. use either a towel or a thick jumper to absorb the steam or water, and do a little turn at a time. if your in a super car turn of engine and let it cool down naturally..
i wasnt thinking tbh im just knackered form a day of dodgy diy.
Last edited by chumpit; 5th Apr 2009 at 22:03.
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Old 5th Apr 2009, 22:51   #19
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well sorry if i was snappy... the pressure in a standered car isnt enoth to expolde in your face, maybe spurt out 2 miles above the head thats it. on race engines and superpsports theirs a big differance in pressure as the water has to do twice as much work.

so if ur cars over heating and you need to remove the cap fast to get rid of heat before it destroys your head gasket. use either a towel or a thick jumper to absorb the steam or water, and do a little turn at a time. if your in a super car turn of engine and let it cool down naturally..
i wasnt thinking tbh im just knackered form a day of dodgy diy.
Ive seen my Dad get a faceful of boiling hot water from an Escort or something before when he opened the rad cap.
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Old 5th Apr 2009, 23:02   #20
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as said, if the coolant temperature is over 108deg-c when the ignition is turned off, the low speed fan should run for either a maximum of 12 minutes or until the coolant temperature is less that 100deg-c.

well, that's the principle for the Clio 172 anyway

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Old 5th Apr 2009, 23:10   #21
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Honestly dude, I wouldn't worry, if I leave it long enough mine will switch the fan on at idle on a cold day.

Today was not a cold day, and you were revving it.

Just keep the coolant level between the marks.


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Old 5th Apr 2009, 23:12   #22
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Ive seen my Dad get a faceful of boiling hot water from an Escort or something before when he opened the rad cap.
not saying rad ccap saying collant cap two diffenert things....
the rad cap is under pressure the coolant ank isnt....

OK FOR MECHANIC NOOBLETS, THE COOLANT TNAK IS THE THE BIGG NORMALLY ORANGEY PALSTIC CONTAINER ITH A PLASTIC LID UNDER LITTLE PRESSURE, THIS CNA BE SAVELY OPENED WHEN HOT WITH A TOWEL AND GENTLY A LITTLE AT A TIME TO RELASE THE STEAM PRESSURE.
TH E USUALLY RED CAP ON YOUR RADIATOR WITH "DO NOT REMOVE WHEN ENGINE IS HOT" SHOULD NEVER 'REPEAT' NEVER BE REMOVED WHEN ENGINE IS HOT UNLESS U LIKE 3RD DEGREE BURNS...
Last edited by chumpit; 5th Apr 2009 at 23:20.
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Old 5th Apr 2009, 23:26   #23
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OK FOR MECHANIC NOOBLETS, THE COOLANT TNAK IS THE THE BIGG NORMALLY ORANGEY PALSTIC CONTAINER ITH A PLASTIC LID UNDER LITTLE PRESSURE, THIS CNA BE SAVELY OPENED WHEN HOT WITH A TOWEL AND GENTLY A LITTLE AT A TIME TO RELASE THE STEAM PRESSURE.
TH E USUALLY RED CAP ON YOUR RADIATOR WITH "DO NOT REMOVE WHEN ENGINE IS HOT" SHOULD NEVER 'REPEAT' NEVER BE REMOVED WHEN ENGINE IS HOT UNLESS U LIKE 3RD DEGREE BURNS...
Plastic expansion tanks can be under just as much pressure, my cap will vent at 1.4 bar. Take the same precautions.

Also, the chances of getting 3rd degree burns from 110C (at most) water/water vapour/steam are quite low, 2nd degree burns are likely.


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Old 5th Apr 2009, 23:37   #24
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the coolant tank is part of the same system, so it is

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Old 5th Apr 2009, 23:37   #25
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Plastic expansion tanks can be under just as much pressure, my cap will vent at 1.4 bar. Take the same precautions.

Also, the chances of getting 3rd degree burns from 110C (at most) water/water vapour/steam are quite low, 2nd degree burns are likely.
1.4 bar i think your reading a bit to much into manufactures safety precautions the plastic caps can barly do 1.1 bar before poping the thred, also hence the towel its the ultimate for over heating issues.
but i would never recomend taking of the radiator cap as it can be alot higher than the res tof the system, known some standerd cars , aka land rover wolfs in desert setup to run at nearl 2.5 bar
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Old 5th Apr 2009, 23:41   #26
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Says 1.4 bar on the cap mate, and I've seen one releasing gas and liquid, fairly violent.

The only thing that makes them safer is the longer thread means they don't shoot off when you open the seal.


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Old 5th Apr 2009, 23:41   #27
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the coolant tank is part of the same system, so it is
it maybe part of the same system but the stnading water counteract the pressure which allows it to expand theirfore nutralising the pressures effect whislt the airtight radiotr hold the pressure allowing for a greater amount of kinetic energy to be realesed.

if oyu are planning to do a full drain of your colling system best to do it when cold, if your other heating at the side of the road nad want to vent heat quickly to save engine damage, use a towel or thick jacket (dpm smocks rull for this) and gnetly remove the coolant cap allowing excess preeusre to slowly vent off then open compltely n dlet it cool compltetly.
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Old 5th Apr 2009, 23:43   #28
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it maybe part of the same system but the stnading water counteract the pressure
No.


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Old 5th Apr 2009, 23:44   #29
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Says 1.4 bar on the cap mate, and I've seen one releasing gas and liquid.

The only thing that makes them safer is the longer thread means they don't shoot off when you open the seal.
i would love to point out if never said tkae off in one big go. more like untwist slowlly and let pressure drain off. but hey. in my experiance with rover v8s, the caps notrmally pop off once the coolant "expansiontank" goes beyound a certain point maybe it sjust a shoddy rover design??
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Old 5th Apr 2009, 23:48   #30
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its all one big system, so the pressure will be uniform

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