project:20 (parvum resize)

Soldato
Joined
31 May 2006
Posts
7,564
Location
West London
Aim (primary)

Reduce the size of the Parvum S1.0 case I won to a more manageable 20 litres
But keeping the mATX mobo, full size psu, double rad and duel gpu's.

The secondary aims inclued
Complete the build in less than one week (prevous build logs I've made have dragged on - sorry)

Ok let's start off with some photo's I took a few weeks back and posted in the compertition thread linky
The S1.0 is quite big for a SFF Matx case (35L). Shown here with a PC Design Labs QMicra V2 (29L cube), and Silverstone TJ08B-E (30L)

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To win the comp I made a to scale card model of the S1.0
And this is what I used to mock up a few of my designs

Template
ocuk.jpg


The one at the front was my first attempt with blue tac corners.
The one behind was the finished model, now water damaged :(
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The four designs that progressed to models behind the S1.0 - from left to right.
1) Psu / HHD chamber as per S1.0 - no cards
2) Window panel acting as two walls - separate rad chamber to front
3) as 1 but with cable zone at rear. When in use it would stand on rear panel
4) Mobo zone as per S1.0 - psu over cpu, rad to front
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Reverse view - cable zone cover cut away to show I/O etc
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Designs 1 and 3 are approximatly 35% of the S1.0 and although I had no plans on adding a card to my trinity system I wanted the flexablity of swapping back to intel.
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Design 2 with a 1:5 scale FM2A75 Pro-4
I really liked the concept of the 'angled' window panel but didn't think I had the skill to make it look right :o
20L-05.jpg


The offset rear panel is to allow for it to stand up with all the wires pointing down.
But in the end I wanted to keep as many pre drilled holes as possable (for speed and ease)
so I kept the rad as forwards facing. I may do a rev2 at some point with a rotated layout but that for another time.
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With scale PSU, RX240 and D5-res-top
Cables and HHD in area behind mobo tray
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One of the Parvum system cubes - and the 2mm machanical pencil lead I used to mark the drill hole.
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3mm and 5.5mm drill bits - to match the stock countersinking
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After a good hour working out final dims I could have made the motherboard area a little thinner but the extra works imho wouldn't have been worth it.
So I decided on a 30mm clear zone behind the mobo tray and cut down the tray to fit.
This matched up nicely with the spacing required for the rad, happy days :).
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Psu cut out. Alined with the top of the case for max space for cards in top slot
And minimal overlap to cpu block (45's still required but not 90's)
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Inner rear panel cut down and test fitted - more fileing / sanding untill near perfect.
Side panel also complete, and a cut out in the mobo tray to accomadate a corner cube
Base panel and window are still full size at this point.
Infact keeping the base full size really helped - it was drilled three times to accomadate 3 cubes.
With lot's of dim checks, separating, 3mm drilling rebuilding and checking.
Minor adjuctments as required and final countersinking (in correct place) and rebuild.
I did take time but worked.
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From the other direction
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Psu test fit
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Outer rear panel cut and sanded to shape
I'm thinking of asking the parvum guys to cut me a custum rear panel for a 'cleaner' look
But tbh I like the juction and may add some USB ports in the old psu cutout.
This is where I stopped on the first day (school run stops play)
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Where did you get that qmicra???

I swapped it for a FT02 with one of the members here - MM is a great place to find old school classics

im excited to see how it's going to look. :)

stay tuned - I finished the major building work last friday, just uploading the photo's and writing the build today / tomorrow

Im confused as to what the point of this is - was it a competition to mod a parvum case? or do you actually need the case to be smaller for your own use?:)

The competitions first prize was to win a S1.0 (linky) - When it arrived I thought it was too big so I made mine smaller.

hope that answers your questions on with the build
 
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Day 2 started with me buying a full size hack saw (everything above was with a junior hacksaw and drill :eek:)
My build started with me useing the wrong drill bit, and chipped the front panel when countersinking :(
Then my camera died :mad: too much acrylic dust so I wasn't a happy bunny.
This shot of the cutout for the psu power cable is the only true shot of the build half way through.
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These next shots are all post completion - deconstruction images
(after cleaning out my camera)
Hope they make up of the 'missing' action shots.
If not scroll to the next post

Outer front panel - inclueing offcut
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Inner front panel
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Both panels attached - added a chamfer detail to the corner so the gold panel is visable.
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Window panel and cable tidy (bottom left more on this later)
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Window panel in correct orientation (arch)
Bit of a break from the norm but works well imho in this small case with it's butt joints.
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Inner rear panel inc metal insert cut to accommodate psu
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Outer rear panel, with power cable/switch cutout
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Rear panel (reverse) assembled with additional psu support (white 'L')
The weight of the psu distorted the panel when it wasn't fully secured on all sided,
so I added the extra piece to stop the panel twisting.
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Side panel - just a simple cut down
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Motherboard tray - Right hand edge has been cut top and bottom for cubes
The top two holes have also be joined to make an oval for the anti-vandal switch
20L-39.jpg


Top panel - grills centred and cut both sides, unused cable tidy to left.
Might get a blank top from the Parvum guys for a cleaner look but this will do for now
20L-40.jpg


Base Panel, psu support made from offcut - final panel slightly larger than half the original.
20L-41.jpg
 
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Construction a-go-go

Base and cubes
20L-42.jpg


Motherboard tray
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HDD - need to get some velco
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Front and side panels added - as are the sata and anti-vandel switch cables.
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Anti-vandel switch passing through 'oval' cutout in tray.
You can also just make out the motherboard tray has a double chamfer (see reflection)
so it slots perfectly between the front and side panel.
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Inner rear panel attached (counter sink for the win)
20L-47.jpg


Outer panel (and metal insert) on
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Rear panel complete (inner view)
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Window in and corner detail
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This was my first try at a cable tidy - but cut to much away, shame as I wanted the keep the 'PARVUM'
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Second go at a tidy
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Sorry for the poor focus - will redo these on a brighter day (or take the case out into the garden)

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I added an window under the grill in the main section (to stop air short circuits) but still allow air to the HDD
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I know a modular psu would be neater - but I'll tidy it abit more after I've added the Koolance loop.
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That's all for now - it's up and running with the stock AMD cooler :o but I'll try and install the loop this week

Final dims are 217 x 305 x 350 (WxHxD) or 20.186 Litres so just over target
 
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Wow very interesting! Would like to see how you would squeeze all that tech in in an even smaller case.

I struggled squeezing mine so this is gonna be a challenge!
 
Time for an update.

Spacial testing
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Lang D5 vario
Koolance CPU-370
Koolance Pump top (COV-RP450)
Koolance Reservoir tube 60x50mm (BDY-TK050)
Koolance Reservoir base (COV-TKBTM)
XSPC RX240 or Koolance 140mm (HX-CU1401V)
XSPC tube
Various Bitspower and Thermalright acetal 90's
Primochill metal ghost barbs 1/2"

I sorted the loop out in my head but with a case this small it was pointless picking fitting and cutting tube untill it was layed out inside the case.

The basic idea was the RX240 would be at the front, the pump suspended between the psu and rad.
The Radiators barbs would need to be at the top to max space around the PCIe slots.
The Rad would then feed into the side of the res top - barb to barb
Directly down through the reservoir into the pump and out to the block.
Finally from the block back up into the radiator.

First issue was the reservoir side ports were on the wrong side :(
The next issue was the nearside top port was to close!
So rotating the pump/res I used the far side via an acetal elbow and male/male fitting.
This now ment the outlet for the pump was pointing at the motherboard.
I'm not a big fan of 90's but I needed to use another 2 to make the connection to the block.
And a forth 90 out of the block so the tube didn't foul the res :(
My only consolation is that with the total tubing lenght being only 25cm I've offset any flowrate drop.

The mix of 90's is due to spacings more that design.
I wanted to use all acetal elbows as it matches the cuboid case and Koolance pump accessaries.
But they didn't always stop in the right orientation - Bitspower rotaries solved that issue
I may swap them all out but for a 24h leak test it will do

Reverse view
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Looking towards rad
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Normal view (infocus this time)
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Looking up at the base of the pump. Twin set of 90's needed
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Looking down on pump - I proped the rad to show their relationship inside the case
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Leak testing underway
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May i ask why you did this to a great case?

I would have just asked Parvum to make one from your spec :/

The point is the challenge. Nothing beats the satisfaction of doing something yourself. Where would the fun be in getting someone else to do it? Plus, he won it. So it's not as though it cost him anything?

Nice build. I'm amazed at how small people can build water loops. I have trouble finding the right hose lengths :P
 
Thanks for the comments guys

I've been making stuff with paper for years - black belt in origami me.

And yes it is a nice case but not a great case.
There are major sound isolation issues
It have no front usb or optical drives.
HDD caddies can't be used.
It's also to big imho - and hence the build.
What the S1.0 does have is lots of modeling oppertunities.
It's easy to cut/drill - It's constructed with cubes and butt joints (easy to reproduce)
Designed and build by guys that actively encourage mod's to be done.

Yes I could get the Parvum guys to cut me some panels (I may do this)
But as Chrisbes said - where is the fun in that!
It's cost me nothing (except a hacksaw) and I'm sure the Parvum guys are watching with intrest what I'm up to.

No leaks to report



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looks really good, one of the benefits of acrylic is easier modding :) though acrylic blunts hacksaws so fast, remember when i was cutting replacement greenhouse windows, was burning through blades, where did u get those tiny metal 3 sided fixing blocks, or do they come with the case, i could think of so many uses for those!
 
The 'cubes' are really quite something - they come with the case and have fixing holes on all 6 sides :)

When through 3 junior hacksaw blades on the first day - the full size blade still has a bit of life in it (was a quality bi metal one)
 
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