Logburner lining of fireplace with board & paint advice

Jez

Jez

Jez

Caporegime
Joined
18 Oct 2002
Posts
33,073
Hi all

We are re-doing a fireplace in our house, and would like to go for a modern approach to it. We have already previously had a contemporary log burner installed into this recess not long ago at a fair cost, and do not wish to replace this or disturb its approved installation.

Basically the question is, what material should i use to line the inside of the fireplace? I am concerned that regular plasterboard will not be safe with the intense heat created by the burner?

In addition to this, i would like to paint the lining, but what paint is suitable for the heat generated here? Would standard emulsion stand up?

Obviously being a sealed burner there are no dust concerns as such, it is purely dry heat.

Image of current situation, noting the brick interior, which i wish to cover by slotting pre painted board down the sides. I will board and plaster the front wall, no problems with that. We already have an Oak beam (Old stone surround which we decided to get rid of) for the mantle from the old brick surround;
wdXPBO1.jpg

Image of desired end result (roughly speaking);
8VGSJF4.jpg
 
Last edited:
tbh it looks too tight to get anything in there to line it - most stoves have minimum clearances around them so you'd be best to check the manufacturers literature, also be careful that you aren't going to close out air for burning that the stove requires…

The other one you've pictured works because it has decent clearances to everything
 
You could be right, i will need to check up on that. Failing boarding i guess i could paint the brickwork using a very thin roller and a guard to avoid painting the burner. If i did this, i wonder what paint type should be used for the heat?
 
Do you mean stuff like this mate:
http://www.condell-ltd.com/ProductD...n_dry_lining&gclid=CO--lYLZm8ICFdLItAodBUQAqg

Ive never worked with that stuff before. Do you think it will fare a lot better than regular plasterboard? :)

I need to check the clearances with the installer too.

And what paint would you use maccapacca? I know you are pretty experienced in a lot of this sort of thing. I dont know if emulsion as on the walls and what i will use on the front will stand up to the heat? Or will it?
 
Ok, done the same job in my house.
That's a small opening, try a smaller stove IMO, mines a Stockton 3

67ieOAB.jpg
 
the_r_sole said:
tbh it looks too tight to get anything in there to line it - most stoves have minimum clearances around them so you'd be best to check the manufacturers literature, also be careful that you aren't going to close out air for burning that the stove requires…

The other one you've pictured works because it has decent clearances to everything
Click to expand...

Looking at the picture again i would be surprised if the installation meets Part J - 150mm is minimum clearance as i recall.
 
Shimmyhill said:
Looking at the picture again i would be surprised if the installation meets Part J - 150mm is minimum clearance as i recall.
Click to expand...

Oh the armchair experts on this forum posting useless replies which do not address the question being asked. Read the op and you will see that this is a professionally installed and approved installation.

FYI, I bothered to take two minutes to look it up for you;
Building Regulations Approved Document J, Pages 37- 39, Diagrams 24-27.

If the stove is placed on a combustible floor, the stove should always be installed on a non-combustible hearth. The hearth should extend 225mm in front of the stove and 150 mm to each side.


Distance of stove to adjacent walls, combustible, non-combustible:

The CE plate on the rear of the stove indicates the minimum distance to combustible surfaces to the back, sides, and to the front of the stove.

There is no requirement for minimum clearance to non-combustible surfaces around the sides and back of the stove.
Click to expand...

Thanks to the people with informed replies, I need a cement based board and emulsion then :) I think we were right to remove the old stone surround, it was authentic matching the stone construction of the old cotswold house, but I think it's perhaps too oldy woldy for us.
 
Last edited:
Log burners can get extremely hot -- all things I have used eventually cracked - in my present set up I had a metal box made - three sides and a top with flue hole cut through top - this was about 1" smaller than opening and due to bricks being out above box I was able to fill with vermiculite - Even with this the wall behind fire opening got extremely hot so I then had a metal plate cut to fit inside box but two inch's shorter top to bottom - I then screwed it to back of box but spaced it out by 20mm - this has acted as a heat stop for back of box and wall behind is now cool to touch and get convection due to air rising behind plate and exiting above plate (1" gap at top and bottom)

One other thing I would do is knock out the opening now rather than think of doing it later as you really do need that 3" each side or more.

If you have clay flue liners make sure they have been installed the right way up otherwise in future you might get the dreaded tar water run down walls. -In hindsight I would have lined chimney where you have clay liners or not.

How do I know !!!!!!

Dave
 
The flue is lined with steel mate :) The install is not something i am going to change, it is signed off with a certificate and all plate etc and i do not plan to pay for a re-inspection etc.

I think i may simply paint the brick with a thin roller and see how it goes. The clearance is not massive as it is and the fact that the brick is painted shouldn't show with only the thin visible void. I also risk voiding the install in theory if i reduce clearance as the installer will have gone with the manufacturer guidelines which i am imagine are on their limit as it is.

It does perform wonderfully as it is, so i also dont wish to impact this really, its a 9KW burner so puts out a decent amount of heat even for our large lounge.
 
Last edited:
9kw?! looks pretty small for that output…

Have you personally checked the clearances required by the manufacturer?
tbh I wouldn't put any paint down the side of that unless it was the same stuff they paint the stove with...
 
Looks like a pevex bohemia series, They most definitely need suitable clearance on all sides. 2" on the rear and 4" minimum on the sides. This is stipulated from the manufacturer which overrides any ADJ/HETAS Guidelines. This lets the stove breath and not overheat.

Also if your fitting an oak beam then please ensure it is above the top of the fire by atleast 450mm. I've removed plenty of beams from dodgy installs that have caught fire.

Id be questioning who signed that off. My business is installing upwards of 20 stoves a month. This would not be acceptable.
 
Last edited:
Jez said:
Oh the armchair experts on this forum posting useless replies which do not address the question being asked. Read the op and you will see that this is a professionally installed and approved installation.

FYI, I bothered to take two minutes to look it up for you;
Click to expand...

I already answered the question but then thought about it more having seen the picture - bit defensive aren't you?
 
Stoves too big for the hole, I agree.
9KW is just crazy!
My little Stockton is only 3.75KW and really kicks out the heat.

How big is your lounge?
 
Shimmyhill said:
I already answered the question but then thought about it more having seen the picture - bit defensive aren't you?
Click to expand...

I'm not defensive mate, far from it, the issue is that a sad side effect of this particular forum section is that there are so many pointless incorrect and unhelpful replies which do not address the question being asked. I suppose that is partly my fault, I should have simply asked the question, but I always feel as a reader it is more interesting to me when people provide context too.

Thanks for the first reply, very helpful. As I say I think now I will shelve the board idea as the clearance isn't very generous as mentioned, and it was at the time only just signed off. Due to our house requiring a powerful burner to heat it I pushed for the largest they were happy to fit which met all the guidelines. :)

For reference for anybody reading with an equally tight spot, the clearance around this unit is 2" to each side, and around 5" at the back. Don't be afraid to push the boundaries of the burner output, this performs extremely well and is powerful enough to eliminate the heating system in an old uninsulated large 3 storey stone house. It also has the capability of being hooked up to the radiator system at a later date too which sounds rather good. A smaller burner didn't interest me at all as per the small one in skodamarks post, it's not the same prospect as we actually wish to use this thing as a primary heat source. :)
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom