Project - Keyboard.

Soldato
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Quite possibly very boring for some, but I don't see many threads on here with people making custom kbs etc. This is sort of going to be one of those lol. I'm not quite at the point of paying out the backside for a fully personalised keyboard, so you will have to bear with me. I'm also a bit of a tight arse, so you will need to remember that too. However, what I will end up with is a killer little board for not that much money.

For years now I have been buying Razer boards. Mostly because I couldn't be fuffed messing around. However, their keyboard and mouse firmwares are now loaded with botulism, and I am tired of having to refuse it. They are also terribly unreliable. And their warranty is among the worst I have ever seen. So congrats to them on that.

I also realised recently my time on the PC actually typing is now far lower, due to being back into games in a big way. I am also about to do a full desk revamp and project at home, and I want more space. You will see that this winter.

First up was making a nice compact keyboard but making it not suck as much. I firstly realised that the last couple of boards I bought were with red switches, and I have learned to hate them so. They are FAR too easy to press, and that means I end up making mistakes in games. And it is annoying. This was compounded more recently by getting a board with some odd switches I had never heard of, and realising they have a much higher actuation force. And when you are a heavy handed "I grew up on rubber domes" ***** like myself you soon realise it is for the better.

So the first thing I did was looked at a F ton of switches. And I settled on these, with a 50g actuation and 60g to bottom out. Ph33r my uranium rod fingers.

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They are from a diced fruits range labelled only as "kiwi". They are also pre lubed, and not terribly expensive. £32 for two tubs which will give me more than enough.

I then needed a keyboard. So, I got one here from the MP that had a liquid spill and the RGB is a bit off. That doesn't matter, I will just find a colour that works. Probably red to match my rig.

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It's a gorgeous little board. On the outside lol. On the inside it has red switches *gob spit* that I hate so much. So those will be desoldered one by one and replaced.

So that was those sorted for less than £70. Which is less than half of the RRP of the Falchion alone. I then ordered some caps, but not just normal ones. I see they now do clear caps. And I don't mean pudding caps either which are opaque, I mean like, crystal clear. Due to this they are expensive, and a full set (which I want, I don't want dodgy wrong row keys) is an eye watering £50. However, I lucked out. I found a "Opened never used" set on a certain warehouse, and they were £21. So I was now armed with all of the ingredients.

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Switches.

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If you ever buy any of this range make sure they are sealed. Apparently people like to buy them, nick a few and then send them back.

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Here are the caps. All four layers of them.

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And like I said, they are completely crystal clear.

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I have always loved transparent electronics. From my first Imac in 98, to my sorta clear red N64 (strawberry). It's like adult entertainment for me to see inside things, but then I was totally a 90s sorta person. We need more of it, basically. I did open that to check they were all there (again, people looking for free key caps) and they were, so that was awesome.

Opened up the keyboard to test it.

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You would be forgiven for thinking it was upside down. It isn't, that is a full dust cover. Amazing. This means when not in use I can put that on and won't have to clean it out anywhere near as often. You can flip it and put the keyboard inside it, but I don't think I will bother doing that. All works perfectly.

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So it needs packing away to be transported home.

The final things needed were supplies. I got some 99% isoprop for the obvious reasons, as well as this.

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And these.

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And two reels of wick. That ought to do it. More soon ! :)
 
Soldato
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Minibotpc
Oh man saw keyboard and thought this was gonna be a full on custom build, metal case and the whole galore!

When will you go for something abit more custom? Some of the high end customs are quite cheap now due to a saturated market.
 
Soldato
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OK so off we go. First thing I did was remove all of the caps.

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And our first signs of liquid damage. I then removed the screws, and was greeted with our second sign once the two halves had been split.

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The board has been pre "Thock modded" by Asus. IE, they put a daft piece of foam in there so you don't have to. Lots of liquid damage, but it was easily cleaned up.

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And clean.

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This part was bad also. Lots of white corrosion. Thankfully it has done no physical damage, and was easily cleaned up.

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Soldato
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Well when the iron had cooled down I figured out what was wrong with it pretty fast. There was a chip in the metal nozzle, and it was not creating a seal. So I filed it down. I have replacement nozzles, but not here.

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One board. One top plate.

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Both.

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Soldato
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Right. Bought one of these for £12. So I am right at £100 all in.

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Will start the soldering tomorrow. Nursing a missing chunk from my finger from slipping with the pliers. Imagine that, then using a rag soaked in 99% isoprop after. Aye, I am a little sore.
 
Soldato
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Sod it. Decided to do it today. OK so the setup goes as follows. Solder iron, obs. Braid wire just in case. Flux, for some of the joints that had been corroded by the spill. This was just belts and braces. Finally, a multimeter. Why that? well some of the reviews on the site I bought them from said a lot of the switches were dead. Given they are such a pig to remove I decided to play safe and test every sodding one. I found 0 dead switches, so IMO said people are noobs at soldering and probably melted them inside.

I started off with one in each corner and the space bar switch and middle top row. I did not want to overdo it, as this is how you end up missing solder and things don't work.

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I then did them top and bottom row.

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And then worked in rows of three, top to bottom, one at a time.

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I then made my one and only mistake. Because I took a drink and vape break I forgot where I had put the switch in, and ended up soldering two holes closed. This was remedied by calming down, and getting the pump back out. Eventually.

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Hello World. I work.

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Soldato
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Oh dear.....

So last night after messing around with the solder pump the piece of card I was using to blot the pump was smothered in solder. So, I picked it up and threw it in the bin. What I did not realise was that mistake nearly cost me all of the money I had spent.

You will see these things in certain boards.

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They are fresh out of the bin, and there are only three. I spent another hour trying to locate the last one to no avail. FUDGE. I desperately looked them up on the net, nothing. Thing is, I knew I had seen them somewhere before. So I went down, armed with my torch, and dug around under the stairs.

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Opened it.

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"Ooo, wassat?"

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*wipes brow*
 
Soldato
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Nicely, and neatly done! You obviously know what you're doing with a soldering iron. :cool:

P.S. What's in the syringe?

Flux. Many, many people over use it, or even misuse it. I sigh every time I see people using it without an extractor and heavy filter. It is basically epoxy that sets with heat. However, it has acid in it. Literally HCL. Solder joints are usually copper, and the acid etches said copper, cleans it, and makes the solder stick. Even though it smells really, really nice, you never ever want to breathe it in.

Yeah I have had a lot of soldering practice. For four years I sat in a speaker factory making crossover boards. Which is where I learned that flux is pretty nasty stuff.

Basically the guy I got it from spilled a Huel liquid protein hot meal over it. So basically a protein soup. As such when it went in it made everything pretty nasty and gritty as it dried. Some joints looked dirty, so I put flux on and added solder, then cleaned it off using the wick (the thing that looks like Scalextrix brushes on the reel made of copper).
 
Soldato
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I can testify to the flux thing. I usually use rosin cored solder but needed a touch more from a rosin pen for some job or other. Wasn't long before I was whinging at Andy that my lungs felt like they'd been through a cheese grater. Knowing better, he was, of course, full of sympathy :cry:

What's the issue with the dodgy RGB LEDs? Is it something that could be swapped out while you've got the board stripped and the soldering iron out anyway?
 
Soldato
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I can testify to the flux thing. I usually use rosin cored solder but needed a touch more from a rosin pen for some job or other. Wasn't long before I was whinging at Andy that my lungs felt like they'd been through a cheese grater. Knowing better, he was, of course, full of sympathy :cry:

What's the issue with the dodgy RGB LEDs? Is it something that could be swapped out while you've got the board stripped and the soldering iron out anyway?

The RGB colours on three LEDs are a bit off. They are tiny, and fiddly. TBH I don't care about that, as they display most colours fine. I don't want a light show, one solid one works for me.

Sadly as per email the board does not work properly. All of the display keys (like letters numbers and symbols) all work fine. So I thought my hello world test was successful. Sadly the left shift seems to be shorting, the left ctrl does not work, the tab does not work, caps lock and escape are missing also.

This is not a huge issue for me. The shift, alt and ctrl can all be bodge wired from the ones on the right (they should be connected any way, when you run a keyboard tester they both light up when you press a working one) but the escape and tab are going to be a slightly bigger issue. I mean, it could be dodgy solder, but I fitted the caps and to get the board apart they all need removing again. I CBA right now. However, when I can BA I will bodge wire those to keys I never use like insert and the small delete key, and then remap. That is if, of course, they switches are not faulty (odd because I tested every single one) or solder. All fixable, I just don't have the time now for a week or two.
 
Soldato
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Any idea where the fault lays with those keys? Have you got obvious track that's flaked off (and could maybe be bridged) or do you have some key modules that have died after soldering?
 
Soldato
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Nope. None. I don't think the modules are on that part of the board. It is split into two boards, with a pin connector between them. The problem now is to get back into it I need to pull all of the keys, that took about two hours to find in the correct rows. Some are obviously too small, but none that matter. The space bar is 5.5u too, and you don't get one.

The keys that are not working are not on the same side as where the damage was. So it could be bad solder, it could even be a switch that developed a fault when soldering. I don't know. And like I said, it is a ball pain to get back in.

However, I can 100% fix it. Firstly the shift and repeated keys? bodge wires to the ones on the right that do work if it is the PCB at fault. I can then bodge wire like, escape to a key I never use (insert) and then remap. Which I did check, and Armoury Crate has a full mapping part. Caps lock? TBH I would remove that forever more if I could. I hate it. Come out of every game and then shout over Whatsapp. I also don't like it lighting up in game either.

So yeah, it's 100% fixable. I have spent about 5 hours sat on the floor now and am not repeating that today. Besides, I just bought my first TV license in 4 years so I have been testing the sat box I bought.

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Scored it for £35. Sadly the sling function will not work, and I would have deffo used that too. That said it does all work fully. But it is filthy. So I need to sort that today as was going out of my nut at home last time trying to rely on Youtube alone.
 
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