Rigid Watercooling

Greebo · 14 Jun 2016 at 13:34

Okay I have being reading up lots and I plan a new rigid watercool build and I think I have decided PETG over Acrylic but just want to check here first before ordering.

Is the consensus to go PETG?

If so, which size? Do i really need the 16/10 biggest tube or could I get away with smaller?

Which brand are best please?

And which fittings to go with that tube please?

FYI the loop is going to be two 420 rad, one 280 rad, d5 pump, Aquaero XT, Aquaero reservoir, Aquaero flow meter, 5820 heatkiller cpu block and atm the moment two full cover 290x. Will upgrade these to either one or two 1080, two 1070 or two 480 depending on how things go this month. Might even put the blocks on the Gigabyte x99 board while i am at it.

Many thanks in advance for your kind consideration and advice

Everything for the watercooling build is bought except the tube and fittings.

I would quite like to get the tube ordered soon so i can start making all the bends until i get the new gfx cards at the end of the month then it should be quite a quick build.

Greebo · 14 Jun 2016 at 18:11

Nice rigs. I just wasnt sure if the 16mm was going to look too bulky, especially with the compression fittings.

Tyler_jrb and samsung whose petg pipe did you use please?

Greebo · 14 Jun 2016 at 22:16

Etho primo case so should be big enough

Greebo · 16 Jun 2016 at 17:27

Thanks Maverick, I didnt know about the cutting thing.

Greebo · 18 Jun 2016 at 22:47

Mr Mayhems rep, if i go 16mm with your PETG, which fittings would you recommend please?

These the right ones? https://www.overclockers.co.uk/mons...e-1-2-x-5-8-16mm-6-pack-orange-wc-282-mo.html

How do they work vs normal compression fittings? Are they as good?

Greebo · 19 Jun 2016 at 12:19

Cenedd said:
Greebo: those Monsoon fittings are the ones (I think) that require you to glue a collar to the end of the tube and then connect the fitting. I think the EK HDC's are probably easier and work very similarly to normal compression fittings. You have to chamfer the end of the tube so it doesn't damage the o-rings, push it in and then screw the metal collar over the top.

.:SAmSuNG:. said:
I used primochil tubing and fittings. I personally wouldn't bother with the monsoon fittings that need gluing.

Oh thanks for that, I didn't realise they needed gluing! Bugger that. Think I'll go with normal compression fittings then.

Greebo · 19 Jun 2016 at 12:23

Cenedd said:
You've pretty much hit the nail on the head. You'll definitely require more tubing than you'd think for just this reason. There is a little wiggle room available but not much. You can get bending mandrels to make the bend and help judge the angle. Monsoon also do a measuring kit to help plan the distances and angles. You can also reheat to change the angle a bit but I don't think you get too many goes before it looks naff or has flattened too much.

Yeah buying 5m of tubing. Massive overkill but I know I'll make mistakes and already added the Mandela and measuring kit to my basket to make my like a little simpler.

Greebo · 19 Jun 2016 at 20:36

.:SAmSuNG:. said:
To make your life easier I would use the same manufacturer for fittings and tubing as some have slight size differences. I have the monsoon kit and surprisingly it wasn't that helpful. It also had a slightly different sized bending insert so had to get a primochill one.

Good idea. Wish everything worked the same, mix and match

Greebo · 19 Jun 2016 at 21:55

You should be fine with that pump. I just have the same pump on a cpu, two full GPu blocks and three rads.

And Id shouldn't be an issue, you might lose the odd degree. How many right angled bends in your loop will make a bigger difference.

Greebo · 20 Jun 2016 at 00:38

Right angled bends is the worst thing about rigid tubing Imo. Martins labs did tests once and every right angled bend added a quarter of a degree in temps to your loop. Easy to avoid with flexi tubing but now I'll have something like 8 or 9 on my new loop.

Greebo · 22 Jun 2016 at 13:43

Cant find anywhere which has stock of the inserts for the EK 16/12 hard tubing for bending unless i buy a full tool kit

Greebo · 23 Jun 2016 at 00:51

Thanks

Greebo · 23 Jun 2016 at 08:53

Well ordered the following last night.

1 x Black Ice Nemesis GTX 420 Radiator - Black
1 x Black Ice Nemesis Radiator GTS 240 - Black
1 x Black Ice Nemesis Radiator GTS 280 - Black
1 x Aquacomputer flow rate sensor mps flow 400, G1/4
1 x XSPC PETG Chamfer Tool (Deburring tool) for Acrylic/PETG Tube (XS-PETG-CHAM)
1 x Aquacomputer aqualis XT with fill level measurement and lighting option, G1/4
1 x Alphacool Eiszapfen screw plug G1/4 - deep black
1 x Alphacool 2-way ball valve G1/4 - Black Nickel
1 x Monsoon Hardline Pro Measuring Kit
1 x Alphacool connection terminal TEE T-piece round, G1/4 - deep black
3 x Alphacool Eisrohr 16/12mm PETG HardTube 80cm - 4pcs
1 x Alphacool Silicon Bending Insert 100cm for ID 1/2" / 12mm hard tubes - blue
1 x Monsoon Hardline Pro Mandrel Kit 16/12mm (ID 1/2" OD 5/8")
22 x Alphacool Eiszapfen 16mm HardTube compression fitting G1/4 for plexi- brass tubes (rigid or hard tubes) - knurled - deep black
1 x Aquaero 6 XT
1 x D5 Pump Motor with USB and Aquabus Interface

Total cost circa £700 :O

Have I missed anything?

Oh yeah I got 5 Varder 140 ER fans and 2 120mm ones as well

That was another £60

Greebo · 23 Jun 2016 at 12:16

Cenedd said:
A new mortgage?

PWM hub for the Varders?

You might want to consider a 4-pin Aquabus cable (same ends as a PWM cable). The extra pin carries power and it would let you connect the flow meter to the Aquaero and power it at the same time. Otherwise you'd have to have the USB plugged in too - which isn't a problem but means extra wires to look untidy.
You could do the same with the res but you need the USB connection to calibrate the fill level sensor - although you could connect it only when you need, it's a bit awkward.

I (think) my Primoo Enthoo Case comes with a PWM hub (I hope)

Good call on the on the 4-pin cable though. Although I am hoping to be able to fit the flow meter behind the back of the case out of sight.

I am sure I will find loads of bits im missing but the build starts this weekend and will take me a while and I have enough to start putting it together and see what else i need

Can't believe I have just spent over £700 on watercooling bits. Worse than my last build.

Before I clicked buy I hesitated as I have 3 rads now and flexi tubing and all the bitspower fittings needed, reservoir and a d5 pump plus 2 fan controllers but it just wouldnt do the new case justice. I could have just lifted it all across but I really fancy jumping into the Aquaero system and none of my fans are pwm etc.

Greebo · 23 Jun 2016 at 12:17

String said:
Greebo, could you post some pictures when done?

Enjoy the build!

Will do. Might even do a blog as I do it.

Greebo · 23 Jun 2016 at 17:06

I've just done underfloor heating at home and I have a John Guest speedfit cutter and a pvc ratchet pipe cutter so I am hoping either one of them will work well.

Greebo · 1 Aug 2016 at 17:48

String said:
I've got the loop installed and have tested for leaks over 24 hours. I have to say the EK PTEG and HD fittings have been excellent to work with.

I assume coloured coolant is best avoided with PTEG? I actually quite like the clear look too so not fussed really.

This has been a good thread for advice. Cheers all.

Colour can seep into the tubing overtime. All depends how long you plan to keep the same tubing?