Project 'sillyteg'

Man of Honour
Man of Honour
Joined
18 Oct 2002
Posts
12,264
Location
Cotswolds
OK, I thought I might as well get this thread kicked off, I'll probably be going over some stuff I have already covered in other threads, but I thought it would be better to start from the beginning.

1.jpg


I bought the car in November last year with the following spec:

Engine

- B20 DOHC VTEC (2 litre) installed since May2005 (block was brand new at point of installation)
- Toda spec B cam inlet side
- Toda spec C cam exhaust side
- Crank & bearings smoothed & balanced.
- Uprated valve springs & retainers
- Full port and polish
- JDM 98 spec 4.785 gearbox & standard LSD
- JDM 98 spec drive shafts
- AP Racing clutch kit
- V-spec polished Inlet manifold
- Spoon 70mm throttle body
- Magnecore leads & NGK spark plugs
- High velocity intake pipe with custom Cold Air Intake
- Sard fuel regulator
- Uprated Fuel pump
- Mugen spec 4-1 Exhaust Manifold
- Exhaust heat wrap
- De-cat – Apexi N1 exhaust system
- Mugen low temp Thermostat
- Mugen fan switch
- Samco hoses
- Fwin deep core alloy radiator
- Fwin 1.3bar radiator cap
- Spoon oil cap
- Spoon reservoir covers
- Skunk2 Short shifter


Chassis

- SDT coilovers (12kg Front 10kg Rear)
- SDT alloy rear arms & bushes
- Ractive & Mugen Rear upper strut bar
- Spoon wheel studs
- JDM 98 spec 5 stud hubs & all arms
- JDM 98 spec Anti Roll bars (thicker)
- Rota 16" Grid alloys (unmarked & as new)
- Yokohama Advan Neova AD07 tyres 205/45/16


Brakes

- DC5 Brembo 4 pot calipers
- 300mm Brembo slotted discs (front)
- Front: Ceramic-Carbon-Metallic pads (0-800 degrees C)
- Braided lines all round
- JDM 98 spec rear brake disc and calipers
- Rear: Mintex pads
- Dot 5.1 brake fluid
- ABS disabled


Interior

- 330mm Sparco suede steering wheel
- Sparco Steering wheel spacer
- JDM 98 spec gear gaiter
- Razo pedal set
- Do-Luck VTEC indicator
- Autogauge Oil Temp & Pressure gauge
- Autogauge Water Temp gauge
- Autogauge AFR meter


Exterior

- JDM 98 spec rear bumper
- V-spec carbon fibre bonnet
- V-spec carbon fibre grille
- Clear side indicator lenses
- Phillips 5000k HID conversion
- OE Honda 98 spec rear lights


Unfortunately on the way home from picking the car up the cambelt failed, bending all exhaust valves and 4 intake valves. One head rebuild later the car was running again, but not to it's full potential, so I decided to buy some decent engine management, namely a Hondata S300:

Hondata.jpg


In the mean time I also fitted a Megan Racing H-Brace, and a Whiteline ajustible rear ARB, and also some Spoon style mirrors.

Then came the time to get the cams dialled in and the S300 mapped, I decided on Performance Autoworks to do the tuning as they have a great reputation, I haven't heared a single bad word said about them.

So I dropped into them for mapping, the next day I got a call saying that it's not going well, the car isn't making any power on VTEC. Long story short, it turns out that it's just a big mismatch of parts, the Toda cams were never going to work with the lower compression of the B20B bottom end, and the inlet manifold isn't ideal for N/A applications either.

I could have just tried some standard cams etc, but I deciced to take the opportunity to improve it again. I was all settled on some custom cams, headwork and custom inlet manifold from Perrymoo, but after some research I started to think about going down the forced induction route. I finally settled on a plan, I would turbo it on the stock internals at a low boost, and over the following months get together low comp pistons, rods etc and rebuild it over the winter for some real boost.

I then found a bottom end for sale that has already been built for boost, at a price I would be mad to pass up. So that's where I am at the moment, over the next couple of weeks I'll be ordering the parts for the turbo and picking up the built bottom end, then putting it all together :D

The spec of the engine will be:

- Built B18C6
- 9:1 Arias Pistons
- Eagle Con Rods
- ARP rod bolts
- Darton Sleeve Kit (84mm bore)
- Cometic Head Gasket
- ARP Head Studs
- Skunk2 Turbo 2 cams
- Toda valve springs & retainers
- Full port and polish
- V-spec polished Inlet manifold
- Spoon 70mm throttle body
- Turbonetics/Garrett T3/T04E 50t .63 A/R hybrid turbo
- Egay cast manifold
- Egay downpipe
- Egay intercooler kit
- Tial 38mm Wastegate
- RC 550cc injectors
- Sard fuel regulator
- Uprated Fuel pump
- Mugen low temp Thermostat
- Mugen fan switch
- Samco hoses
- Fwin deep core alloy radiator


That lot should be good for 400+, but I'll be shooting for 300-350whp to keep it reliable. Should be interesting ;)

I'll be updating this thread with pics etc as I progress :cool:
 
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I dont like Tegs but I admire their purist approach to driving - excellent chassis, the right amount of power, and for speed, add lightness.

Therefore, I disapprove of this project. Sorry :(
 
Good luck with it, always liked this car for some reason.

Fingers crossed that nothing else goes kaput.
 
How will it handle that kind of power through the front wheels?

It'll be near the limit of what's drivable for sure, but the Integra has a supurb chassis and decent LSD, so should be OK. Besides, the throttle isn't an on/off switch ;)

[TW]Fox;11432805 said:
I dont like Tegs but I admire their purist approach to driving - excellent chassis, the right amount of power, and for speed, add lightness.

Therefore, I disapprove of this project. Sorry :(

TBH you are quite right, it's daft and makes no sense. I probably have taken leave of my senses. But hey, it'll be interesting ;)

I think I would rather invest that money and buy the new shape teg

I wouldn't be able to get a DC5 for what this is going to cost me.
 
Jonny's moving house at mo and probably hasnt had time to reply, but I know he is keen to sell his Turbo stuff. Dont buy any crap off ebay, especially cheap turbos.

Do it properly, ala Blox manifold and 'Disco potato' :D
 
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