Emissions Workshop....

They are very easy to change yourself, the coils are mearly push fit into the cylinder head and pull up with a tug, the tricky bit may be disconnecting the multiplug. There is a small tab to push back while pulling the plug out and it can be a bit of a fiddle.
 
BigglesPiP said:
Agreed.



Not doing the plugs too is a false economy, they're a few £ each from the same place selling the coils.

If you really want to be a tight arse and replace only one of the 2 components named, start with the cheaper part, the plugs.
Click to expand...

The reason I'd be being a "tight arse" is because I've got twins on the way, I went into a different garage earlier and he said that it won't be the spark plugs because they have been changed recently.

If I put the coils on and it's still bad I'll buy the plugs.

I'm guessing I'll probably not be able to reset the warning light on my own tho?
 
Guru said:
The reason I'd be being a "tight arse" is because I've got twins on the way, I went into a different garage earlier and he said that it won't be the spark plugs because they have been changed recently.

If I put the coils on and it's still bad I'll buy the plugs.

I'm guessing I'll probably not be able to reset the warning light on my own tho?
Click to expand...

plugs are like £3 each just change them
 
lol I've managed to pull one of the coils out, but can't get the wired clip off it. Also two of the coils are underneath the oil cap! No idea how I'd go about getting to them! lol

Think this has defeated me!
 
Guru said:
lol I've managed to pull one of the coils out, but can't get the wired clip off it.
Click to expand...

the clips can be tricky little buggers.

to assist you i will unleash my immense paint skillz-

coillol.jpg


1- push the connector slightly into the coil.

2-push the tab next to the orange section (i have only painted it orange to highlight the gap) back* or gently insert a flat bladed screwdriver and twist it slightly.

3- while pushing the tab back pull the connector off the coil.


if you can get a pick of the top of the engine i could have a look at the two under the oil filler as there a fair few different types.


*away from the coil, it should just pitch back a couple of mm.
 
loving the mad paint skillz! I've got the connector off one of them now :D

Just this oil thing thats confusing me now! Pics:

imag0186.jpg

imag0185.jpg

imag0184v.jpg
 
Dalin80 you are a true gent!! Car works fine now :D

That stupid warning light has not gone yet, but I guess VW would have to do that? Ah well who cares, at least my mum can put her car back in the garage and I can go home and heat up my dinner :D

Result!!

Thanks ever so much!! :cool:
 
pleased to help.

If you know the radio code then disconnecting the battery for an hour or so may clear the memory, alternatively a long test drive may clear the code under self-check parameters.
 
A laptop with VAG-COM and the right cable could clear the light, but setting yourself up with the software will cost more than getting the dealer to clear the fault.

It may also expire after x time or x engine starts, I don't know how the VW error logging works.
 
What a genuinely excellent thread, I'm obv having a properly cruddy day day as reading through that put a smile on my face! lol Nice one chaps, good to see someone helping their fellow man with a happy ending. (goes off and weeps like a girl ;) )
 
BigglesPiP said:
A laptop with VAG-COM and the right cable could clear the light, but setting yourself up with the software will cost more than getting the dealer to clear the fault.

It may also expire after x time or x engine starts, I don't know how the VW error logging works.
Click to expand...

A cheap cable off ebay and the vag-com sharware can also scan and clear codes so for the sake of £10-15 its well worth it for any vag owner.
 
BigglesPiP said:
Cheapest I can find the software alone is $99. Can it clear faults without being activated?
Click to expand...

If I remember correctly you just download the software from the ross-tech site and don't register. I've been using it to clear codes for years. It obviously has limitations such as it can't perform an "auto-scan" you need to manually select the controllers you need to scan for.

You can see the limitations here: http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/vag-functions.html
 
That's quite cool.

Can it show the sensor outputs? The table suggests it can't until registered, and that the fault codes are limited.

The 2 most useful things on the FIAT (Alfa) examiners I've used are to see the data from the sensors and to see ALL the fault codes in English. All of the codes can be the difference between "that component is probably faulty" and "the power supply to those components is broken"

For example from my car with the engine light on and running sick:
Biggles' 146 said:
Mass Air Flowmeter reading out of range
Fuel Vapour Recovery valve solenoid open circuit
Camshaft Phase Variator solenoid open circuit
Oxygen Sensor open curcuit
Click to expand...
If I had a limited fault code translation which didn't include the wiring loom related faults I'd probably have spent a lot of money on a new BOSCH MAF, which fail like clockwork.
In the end it was just classic BBoB.
 
Last edited:
Not sure about the sensor outputs tbh but as you say by the the look of the table it appears not. My understanding of the fault code limitations is that the unregistered software may only give the reference code and not the description:

"The Unregistered/Unactivated version of VAG-COM will only decode a fraction of the DTC's it finds into text. However, it will always show all DTC numbers."

They have a fantastic Wiki site though that will display the fault and potential causes and fixes. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/Category:Fault_Codes
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom