Asus rampage III Extreme

Some interesting finds using the QPI/DRAM LLC jumper.

It seems although the QPI/DRAM LLC mode sustains the higher voltage and isn't prone to so much vDroop, there is a lot more ripple in the voltage compared to no LLC.

-----------------------------QPI/DRAM LLC Disabled - BOOT---------------------------------------------------------------QPI/DRAM LLC Enabled - BOOT---------------------------


qpistockboot.png
qpillcboot.png



--------------------------QPI/DRAM LLC Disabled - PRIME95------------------------------------------------------------QPI/DRAM LLC Enabled - PRIME95--------------------------

qpistockprime95.png
qpillcprime95.png
 
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Just did some quick testing with the CPU LLC with the 3 settings: 0% Calibration, 50% Calibration and Full Calibration, results below.

----------------------------CPU LLC 0% Calibration - BOOT-------------------------------------------------------------CPU LLC 0% Calibration - PRIME95--------------------------


cpullc0boot.png
cpullc0prime95.png



--------------------------CPU LLC 50% Calibration - BOOT------------------------------------------------------------CPU LLC 50% Calibration - PRIME95--------------------------

cpullc50boot.png
cpullc50prime95.png



--------------------------CPU LLC Full Calibration - BOOT---------------------------------------------------------------CPU LLC Full Calibration - PRIME95--------------------------

cpullc100boot.png
cpullc100prime95.png



Looks like 50% Calibration on the CPU is the winner here ;).
 
Sylver123 said:
Yes, I already knew about this before ordering the Asus R3E.

Here is a list of the hardware components i've ordered so far for my new computer system.

I`m going to use my old EVGA GeForce GTX 260 in this system temporary until I decide on what high end Graphics card I want for the system as that is the only thing I need now before the system complete.

Intel Core i7 980X 3.33GHz (Gulftown) Extreme Edition (Socket LGA1366)
Corsair Dominator GT 6GB (3x2GB) DDR3 PC3-16000C8 2000MHz Triple Channel Kit (CMG6GX3M3A2000C8)
BeQuiet Dark Power Pro P8 1200W Modular Power Supply
Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium - Fatal1ty Champion Series 7.1 Sound Card (70SB088600005)
Logitech G19 Gaming Keyboard (920-000978)
Noctua NH-D14 Dual Radiator CPU Cooler (Socket LGA1366LGA1156LGA775AM2AM2)
Samsung SpinPoint F3 1TB SATA-II 32MB Cache - OEM (HD103SJ)
Crucial RealSSD C300 256GB 2.5" SATA 6Gb/s Solid State Hard Drive (CTFDDAC256MAG-1G1)
Asus Rampage III Extreme Intel X58 (Socket 1366) DDR3 Motherboard
Coolermaster RC-1100 Cosmos S "Sport" Silent Full Tower Case - Black
Roccat Kave 5.1 Surround Sound Headset
Logitech MX518 Gaming-Grade Optical Mouse (910-000616)
Boogie Bug AimB.Pad XL Gaming Mouse Pad
Arctic Cooling MX-3 Thermal Compound
OcUK Value 2.5" to 3.5" Hard Drive Adapter
Click to expand...

Just curious to know, are you going to leave out the heat spreader on the RAM and the fan on the North bridge? Won't it cause problems? Just curious to know as i'm planning to OC to 4Ghz and run my Dominators at 2000 Mhz. really wanted the Noctua, but if both parts are fine without their Heat sinks i may consider getting it again.
 
Renton81 said:
Just curious to know, are you going to leave out the heat spreader on the RAM and the fan on the North bridge? Won't it cause problems? Just curious to know as i'm planning to OC to 4Ghz and run my Dominators at 2000 Mhz. really wanted the Noctua, but if both parts are fine without their Heat sinks i may consider getting it again.
Click to expand...

Yes, I`ll be planning on leaving out the heat spreader on the RAM sticks that will be the closest to the Noctua Cooler and leaving out the fan on the North bridge.

I`m sure the Noctua only covers the first 4 RAM sticks???

I`m not sure if it will cause problems but people have posted in the thread that it shouldn`t make much of a difference as long as you have good pc case cooling.
 
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Can't seem to get past 211BCLK, doesn't matter what I try, I have tweaked with every voltage, every frequency, every delay timing, the lot, doesn't change a thing.

Hoping a BIOS update will remove the "wall", I am still getting good results nevertheless. If it isn't the BIOS and it is my CPU/RAM then I can't work out which one. All I know is I get stuck on code "6868" when booting.

What is strange is I am running 210BCLK which is a mere 1MHz lower than the wall, and it is running LinX flat out without a single hitch :confused:. - Must be the BIOS surely?

EDIT: Thought I would give it a go at 211BCLK, yup, LinX stable....

211BCLK - 100%LinX stable.
212BCLK - Doesn't even post with loose timings and over volting.

Strange.
 
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This board just gets stranger!

Check these results out...

4.0GHz - 200BCLK - 21x - needs about 1.35V to pass LinX
4.0GHz - 211BCLK - 19x - I am lowering it as we speak and so far, 1.25V to pass LinX

erm... what?

I was under the impression that a higher BCLK required more power than an multi?
 
BigBruiserAl said:
is regarded on i7 that higher mutli needs more vcore then BLCK thats normal. hence a lot of people not using turbo mode as it need more vcore :D
Click to expand...

Ohhh I didn't know that, weird. So what actually yields more performance, BCLK or multis?

I got it down to 1.24375V, it's running LinX stable now :) Will re-run with Prime95 for a bit and then I will move onto tweaking the RAM.
 
A word of warning if you are going to build the board with a Corsair Obsidian 800D case and a BeQuiet Dark Power Pro P8 1200W power supply. The power leads for the two 8 pin CPU ETAX12V sockets will not reach the motherboard (under the board) unless you run the cable over the motherboard or get an extension cable(s). I expect this to be the case for other power supplies as well.

EDIT: Case comes with one extender, just found it. You will need another if you wish to use the second socket.

EDIT: Plug won't fit the extender socket.
 
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Looks like a bios fault, “CPU Fan Error F1 to resume” with Apache Black fans on CPU cooler. Either turn off the CPU fan speed monitor or set Q-Fan control to turbo (standard still gives error) for the fan. My only comment is rubbish.
 
I have one major issue and that is the Marvell 6G controller and Crucial RealSSD C300 256GB performance on this board. I have suffered a 30% drop in performance compared with the same SSD on an Asus P6X58D. Under investigation.
 
simulatorman, i mentioned this to u abt the crucial c300 since we have similar setups, on the crucial forums i found the best solution for our ssd is to use the MSACHI (the microsoft default drivers for sata 6). first of all they pass trim like that as even the latest marvell drivers do not pass TRIM , apprently if u ask marvell they will only tell u if it passes TRIM or not after u sign a NDA (non-disclosure forum or something) but there was a leak somewhere and therfore uninstall the marvell drivers.

2- c300 has a new firmware make sure u update as its a great improvement. you have more knowledge than me in computers am very noobi :P so if u linger in the crucial forums like i did ull prob learn more and then can help me out.
 
mr.looolz said:
2- c300 has a new firmware make sure u update as its a great improvement. you have more knowledge than me in computers am very noobi :P so if u linger in the crucial forums like i did ull prob learn more and then can help me out.
Click to expand...

I do post on the Crucial forum and we have a little here on firmware
0002:

http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18142198

I’ve been through all the drivers and don’t use the MS driver because it’s slow or the Marvell 1036 driver which is on par with the MS one. Best speeds are achieved with the Marvell 1034 and I’m sticking with it.
 
simulatorman said:
I have one major issue and that is the Marvell 6G controller and Crucial RealSSD C300 256GB performance on this board. I have suffered a 30% drop in performance compared with the same SSD on an Asus P6X58D. Under investigation.
Click to expand...

Problem resolved, not using the hot-swap drive dock and speeds are back to normal.
 
Wohoo! I broke past the BCLK 211 barrier! It was the QPI speed. I put it onto "slow mode" after seeing a suggestion on XS forums, and tada! 235BCLK straight away :eek: that is when I stopped as I was scared to increase the voltages any more haha. I got SO close to 5GHz, posted with 4.8GHz with hyperthreading, but to get to 5GHz would require a lot of patience, tweaking, and more voltages.

Maybe I will have an play around after I finish my year at uni :).
 
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