Fleet update & potential new retro daily - Pic heavy

That 406 Coupe is awesome, would love to be in a position to make you an offer on that but I'm too poor at the moment. :p
 
He's left too much petrol in that Peugeot to be a real trader :)
 
Haha, true that!

ac1d1ty, I was hoping to get somewhere in the region of 2.5-3k for the 406 :)

Anyway - been up to a few bits and bobs on the 2000 today. First port of call was changing some of the coolant hoses that were past their best - heavily cracked, torn and a moment away from causing one of those depressing scenarios where you're sat at the side of the road watching your car have a wee, whilst bathing in a cloud of it's own steam.

The top and bottom hoses were the priority as the others were OK - but I redid some of the manifold heating lines anyway. I also dropped on a few nice shiny hose clips, a new rad cap and changed the coolant. The stuff that was in it was pretty good - but I backflushed a truckload of silt and debris out of the radiator, so was well worth doing:

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Next up was one thing that had been bugging me - the steering column bulkhead bush was shot, so the column had about 2cm of free play at the end, meaning you could rock the wheel up and down. Very unpleasant.

The location of the old bush:

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Looking at this picture I really need to give the engine bay a good degrease and clean! The metal and paintwork are all in very good shape though, especially when you consider it's four decades old - still, a minor bit of detailing that's worth adding to 'the list'......

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The column pulled out - try doing this on a modern car in under 10 minutes:

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:D

Something's not right here:

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Disconcerting:

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.....and here's the new bush, next to the old one:

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Hmm! No wonder it wasn't too hot. I guess 40 years takes its toll.....

New bush in:

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Ah, that's better - positive location:

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......and almost all back together:

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Voila! Finished!

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Predictably, the steering column is well located now and is pretty taught for a Triumph of this age.

Next on the list is to do the front and rear windscreen seals as they're tired (especially the rear one!), replace and tidy a few minor detail items then give the car a thorough T-cut and polish, to see what the paintwork's like. Quite looking forward to shining it up!

I'm still undecided about using it daily (the lack of power is my concern, but then should I really be bothered - not like I'm using it as a strip racer, just a cruiser) but I won't know until I can stretch it's legs on a proper public highway and see what it's like dicing with the modern traffic.

Mind you, could always put a 2.5 in - not like it'd be the world's most difficult swap :D I am warming to the car though, it's like being sat in someone's front room in any of the seats.

It seems it's pretty easy to liven up the 2.0 though, so at least there's another avenue to explore. Still not decided about the carbs - it seems to fit HS6's you have to add spacer plates to the engine mounts to tilt it to fit, and I'm not entirely sure it'd add anything - general consenus still leans towards Strombergs being best for a 2000 (or at least, Chris Witor rates them, and others have followed suit) - but I really don't feel comfortable with the Strombergs, somehow! Seem very nicely made though...
 
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Out of interest, what's the autobox on a car like that like, in comparison with a "regular" modern day slushbox?
 
Brilliant - sharp, precise, shifts, no slurring, strong kickdown, good takeup of drive. Really nice autoboxes to use and they even enjoy being manually rowed through the gears as you can select 1/2/drive. Fair bit of engine braking available too if you're inclined. Lovely shift mechanisms to top it off with a nice mechanical feel that's well gated.

Obviously if you drive a shot one it'll be nothing like that - but a good Borg Warner box is always a pleasurable drive - even on smaller engines. I've had a few 1500s and 1850s with the BW box and they scoot along pretty well and are still an enjoyable, brisk drive - and in a lot of instances were faster than their manual counterparts to 30 and sometimes more! Just lock it in 1st, plant, and GO! :D

The only real difference between these and 'modern' boxes is that the majority of them are only 3 speeders and 4 speed boxes didn't turn up until the 80s - so come 70mph most BW stuff tends to be turning anywhere between 2500-3500RPM, whereas it could be doing 2000 odd with a 4 speed. Obviously you can work around this with bigger tires or taller rear ends but then you need a decent mill to push it all along.

A lot of 'regular' modern boxes have no where near as nice driving manners as the older boxes - I'm taking about boxes you tend to find in Euro FWD things, or even some German stuff (not all of it mind - mid 90s C-Class Merc springs to mind).
 
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Interesting... Any videos of the way they drive/shift? I'm just curious as to how smooth they are etc really! Are there any electronics at all at that age? Old cars do fascinate me in how they work vs modern technological advancements!
 
Well, not yet - but now that you've asked I can't not do that! I'll take one sometime soon and stick it on the tube of you.

There are no electronics, no - barring the reverse light and cutout for preventing starting in reverse or drive.
 
Nice thread spoilt by some modern rubbish ;):p

I don't think I'd be able to keep the 2k original, if it were me. I'd have a 2.5 on megasquirt, and a 4 speed 'box at a minimum!! lol.

Well.... actually, I've got a nice clean 3.5 RV8 in the garage.... that would replace that wheezy 2.0!!

Actually, the 2.0 ain't bad (apart from the weight). I had one in my Gitfire and it pulled like a train, sounded fantastic (with a 6 branch manifold and sports exhaust, natch) and used very little fuel, really. It was on SU's, but I don't see much difference between them and 'bergs.
 
Haha! Well, I thought a Stag engine and 4 speed overdrive, like the prototypes, would be fanastic :)

Anyway, I took the 3500S down the MOT station today, so that'll be interesting. On the road it's fantastic, no odd noises, no groans or creaks, pulls like a V8 should and drives really nicely. Interior's even pretty sociable after I gave it a good clean.

Speedo is wildly out though, at about 15/20mph indicated you're actually doing 30-odd - it was calibrated by Speedy Cables reputedly but obviously not very well! :D
 
No, fortunately my insurance allows me to chop and change without grief (or sometimes I add a car on for a few weeks if I'm unsure about it) - sometimes I just use Dayinsure or Tempcover as well if it's for MOT or tax purposes - for example, like the 3500S.

I really do like the Rover, it's such a trooper, and it glides along beautifully - but I'm worried about the underside to some extent, in particular the rear inner arches - the rest of it's pretty solid but when it was parked up they were packed with mud so haven't suffered well and there's a few holes, to say the least.

We shall see, anyway - at the end of the day repair panels are dirt cheap, exterior panels on the P6 all bolt on (including the roof!) and the garage ain't that bad at welding. I can always get them patched up - but I'd really like to get an MOT on it, and get it on the road, rather than have to sell it on as a project :)

It is a definite 12 footer though - i.e. it looks great (or passable) from 12 feet, but up close it's not so hot - but that kind of appeals, as it's not the kind of car you have to worry about accumulating car park dinks, people scratching and so on, you can just use it, enjoy it, and it looks presentable enough to get past on a daily basis.

Goes pretty well too, clutch is a bit aggressive and it really, really wants to let the tires go when you change gear :D
 
Why don't you keep it as a long term project? Get it properly mint? It's clear that you've taken a liking to it! I know it's not what you do, but hey :D
 
It entirely depends on the outcome of the MOT - if it fails on a few small patches and that rear brake issue, then it may well be a going concern.

The rear brakes are a real pain on the P6 - besides having separate pads for the handbrake and brakes, the braking system is all inboard, mounted on the differential, to reduce unsprung weight and improve the ride quality and handling. It looks like this:

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Obviously when fitted the brakes are close to the underside of the car - so working on them is a bit of a pain. Mine require some work - possibly a new caliper or two and maybe pads, handbrake linkage requires too - but on the flipside once they're sorted, you shouldn't have to look at them for 30/40k :)

The only reason I haven't lept in with two feet is that for say, £1800 quid I could probably buy a really good example, that doesn't require anything and has all the minor things correct - so instead of trying to get this one up to that standard for a similar amount, I could jump into a known 'good' one, although it probably wouldn't have the 5 speed, SD1 heads and so on.

Given the price of 2nd hand (and new parts) however, it probably wouldn't take much for me to make this one perfectly useable and a bit more solid - keeping the wet out of the doors and so on would make it much better, to start with.

We shall see, I'll keep you posted, that's for sure! :D
 
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