Mechanics, could you give me a rough idea of price, please?

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dirtychinchilla said:
Hmm OK, thanks very much for the advice. I'm tracking down the parts as we speak, but if someone wouldn't mind, I'd appreciate a list just so I don't make a mistake. My reg is LA52 APV.

Honestly, I don't think I'll do any of the work myself in reality, but I just don't want to be overcharged for it.

Do mechanics get edgy if you bring your own parts for them to install?
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I always buy my own parts, I fit most of my own parts , unless I need to buy a tool that out weights the cost of a garage doing it, they don't mind as they still get back cash for a little side job!

ie - I have a leon cupra, nearly same car. CV boot was £7 I think and was charged £30 for fitting.
 
I'm also looking at two different types of front disc and can't tell which one to actually order:

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/A...0915f1375da178caa7423242c357397ec1bd3c&000027

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/A...d976c02d1de41a60f2564b537710b7b0ebf100&000027

As far as I can tell, the primary difference is the diameter of the disc, which could be incredibly important I guess?


@ozaudio, I would like to fit my own parts, but don't think I'm capable with the resources I have (no jack, wrong tools etc.). I'm glad to hear that the cv boot is so cheap though!
 
Christ the price you're quoted is horrific :eek: I'd consider myself just above a novice level of mechanics and all of that is easy, I'd prob leave the belt to an indy however.
Switching the gators is messy but pretty easy. One tip though! if you're doing your own brakes make sure you have a good quality G clamp.
 
If you cant change the filters on the car then there's something wrong with you. It's super easy and saves you a few quid.

Changed the rear pads and discs on my '51 Golf and they were easy enough (after a minor niggle).

Take sometime to learn how to do the basic things yourself..

That £1200 is surely new pads and discs all round?
VW quoted me £249 for rear pads and discs for my Golf, I saved myself over £200 doing it myself. It's a no-brainer!
 
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Fair enough, evidently you're more brave than I am! I may give the filters a go, but it's draining the oil that I can't be dealing with, same goes for the fuel in the sense that it probably involves more than I'd expect.

With regards to the brakes, I don't have any of the tools etc that I'd need, not even a jack
 
You have no spanners, socket sets etc? Not even a jack? or axle stands?

Surely your Audi must have come with a jack and all the gubbings to change a wheel? I have a neat little container with it all in that sits in the spare wheel under the boot floor.
 
Hmm I'll have a check during lunch. I have to say, I haven't seen a jack in there. It may well have other tools. No socket set, no jack that I know of, and no axel stands. We don't have a driveway at home, so no one has ever really bothered to work on their cars themselves. My dad might have done 30 years ago when he was more youthful, but not now, certainly
 
ins0mn1ac said:
if you're doing your own brakes make sure you have a good quality G clamp.
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I did my front pads the other day without a clamp or anything, thinking it would be easy to press the piston back in.. I had a breaker bar through the caliper and put my foot on the caliper while pulling as hard as I could on the breaker bar, still took about 15 mins for each side, my arms were wrecked afterwards!

Can you get this work done at a different garage? The price from the dealer seems crazy for the work being done.
 
Yeah I'm going to shop around on pricing, certainly. The price from the dealer is absolutely nuts.

if I'm buying all the parts I'll need, should I buy break fluid too or is that going a step too far? :P
 
rhysduck said:
You have no spanners, socket sets etc? Not even a jack? or axle stands?

Surely your Audi must have come with a jack and all the gubbings to change a wheel? I have a neat little container with it all in that sits in the spare wheel under the boot floor.
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The jack the car came with is lethal, i do not recommend you use it for anything other than emergencies or raising a lowered car onto a trolley jack

if you dont have any tools this could be your chance to buy some and learn otherwise you need to find a good reliable garage (ill cross my fingers for you) and jump in and swim
 
Youtube guides are going to be a life saver and an eye opener here!
Just watch the right ones, plenty of stupid folk out there recording and uploading themselves doing work in such dangerous ways.
 
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phil675 said:
I did my front pads the other day without a clamp or anything, thinking it would be easy to press the piston back in.. I had a breaker bar through the caliper and put my foot on the caliper while pulling as hard as I could on the breaker bar, still took about 15 mins for each side, my arms were wrecked afterwards!

Can you get this work done at a different garage? The price from the dealer seems crazy for the work being done.
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As an aside, how old/what mileage was the car?

Standard callipers should slide back with little more than finger pressure. If they are significantly tighter than this they are probably partially seized and should be overhauled (Not difficult if you can get the seal kits) or replaced

(Rear callipers that incorporate the handbrake mechanism need to be wound back with a special tool. Just forcing them back will either not work (I have never tried) cause severe damage or both!)

Oh and it is a good idea to release the bleed nipple before pushing the pistons back. It makes the job easier, drains out the burned brake fluid from the calliper and reduces the likelihood of damaging master cylinder seals etc.
 
Orionaut said:
Oh and it is a good idea to release the bleed nipple before pushing the pistons back. It makes the job easier, drains out the burned brake fluid from the calliper and reduces the likelihood of damaging master cylinder seals etc.
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This is a better tip than removing the cap to the brake reservoir (unless you don't want to lose fluid)
 
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