Buying an old Mondeo (~2003)

d_brennen · 10 Dec 2013 at 18:06

What to look for aside from visual wear and tear? Which engines are the most reliable? I know these are motorway machines and most examples will have moon mileage, but I need a car quickly for a 40-60 mile a day round trip for a few months

Howard · 10 Dec 2013 at 18:14

In short, the diesels cannot be considered particularly reliable - Well-known issues with DMF, clutch, injectors, etc., but the petrols are fine. All the petrol engines have chain cams too.

Jez · 10 Dec 2013 at 18:16

Old low spec ones are no good, they lack cruise as standard. I think it was about 2004 where it became standard so if looking at base models you will need to cut off there. (I looked at these a bit as a junker recently)

d_brennen · 10 Dec 2013 at 18:48

Cruise isn't all that important for me tbh. So a 1.8 petrol is the way forward?

Howard · 10 Dec 2013 at 18:50

A 2.0 petrol is the way forward. It isn't any less economical than the 1.8 and it has a more suitable amount of power for the vehicle size.

d_brennen · 10 Dec 2013 at 19:28

Is the 2.5 v6 an option? Or too thirsty?

Howard · 10 Dec 2013 at 19:59

If you're happy with the reduction in MPG then yes the 2.5 or even the rare 3.0 are great options

d_brennen · 10 Dec 2013 at 20:26

Getting a certain fuel allowance, so will mitigate MPG somewhat. I'm more worried about getting an old banger that won't start every time

As you can tell, cars really aren't my thing

OpenToSuggestions · 10 Dec 2013 at 20:28

The pre-facelift ones have a disgusting centre console.

rodenal · 10 Dec 2013 at 20:41

They do, but if it means getting a better car I'd still consider them.

I'm not a fan of the 2.5 v6 tbh, not enough performance to justify the mpg - however its again not an engine I'd dismiss of the rest of the car was good.

They're dirt cheap, i bought a 2006 1.8 for just over 1500 over a year ago for a family member, maybe closer to 2 i cant really remember - the car is not particularly well loved ( absolute minimum maintenance tbh) and i dont get the impression its been cherished throughout its previous life but is still running and driving well.

2 litre is definitely the sweet spot though

Perywinkle · 10 Dec 2013 at 20:48

Picked up a 98 2.0 4 years ago for the pricley sum of £600. It's cost me the grand total of £14 for a new coil pack in that time.

d_brennen · 10 Dec 2013 at 21:00

2.0 manual it is, will keep an open mind for the 2.5 if the rest of the car is exceptional, I'm guessing they are quite a bit less desirable than the sub 2.0 engines so might be cheap...

mjt · 11 Dec 2013 at 08:21

1.8 is slow. Get the best spec possible, you might as well!

Makhaira · 11 Dec 2013 at 12:31

I had a 2.0 LX for about 3 years and couldn't fault it (was 6 years old when I got it in 2008). Definitely go for the petrol version.

peter · 11 Dec 2013 at 12:56

Mondeo v6

We have had a mondeo ghia x estate 2.5 v6 for the last ten years. 25 to 35 mpg depending on traffic. In that time we have replaced a grand total of.
a cv joint, 2 springs, 4 disks plus pads,2 brake pipes and kept up the service history in 138,000 miles. It was 3 years old when we got it. Still have not found something I want to replace it with.
Depreciation over ten years = £2500 have done a few total cost of ownership calculations of a new or newer eurobox and they all come out more expensive to run.
( a gunmetal gray st 220 estate with red leather seats did tempt me though.)

d_brennen · 11 Dec 2013 at 13:36

Is there any warning signs to look out for on a test drive? Do these rot?

Gribs · 11 Dec 2013 at 18:31

The doors can rot at the bottoms, other than that not really. In 3 years of running a 2.0 petrol covering about 30k mine was fairly reliable. It seemed to eat rear wheel bearings (I think I replaced 3 or 4), both rear callipers were replaced and the air con pump seized which also destroyed the tensioner. All of these were fairly easy to sort but would have been very expensive if I'd used genuine Ford parts.

d_brennen · 11 Dec 2013 at 18:42

What does a worn/shot rear bearing feel like on a drive?

rodenal · 11 Dec 2013 at 19:02

You wont feel anything but you will hear a drone. Will be next to impossible to determine which wheel it's coming from but it's also relatively cheap and easy to sort. Bearings are something I'd use genuine parts or at the very least a decent brand

Iamzod · 11 Dec 2013 at 19:29

I've got a TDCi which has been flawless reliability wise, I think I'm the exception to the rule however, still going strong at 200k miles.

The only issues I've had were all suspension related, I've snapped two springs, replaced all the droplinks (fronts twice), a rear caliper, headlight levelling motors seem prone to fail but cost pennies on e-bay, replaced both rear wheel bearings & I had an engine mount that was worn when I bought the car.

Just sailed through an MOT last month with no advisories.

I think the most it's cost me in one go was about £50, but my mate also bought a 53 plate TDCi (it looked abused to me though) with half the mileage and he scrapped it 9 months later as it was costing him hundreds in repairs all the time & kept breaking down.