If a superior and tens of times less expensive solution is not needed, then a rack mounted protector is clearly for fools who spend massively on something that does nothing.
Electronics already contain significant protection. Why would anyone spend so much on something that does nothing? Or can even make damage easier? Or in rare cases can create a fire? Naive consumers told them they need it. So it must needed?
Take a £4 power strip. Add some ten pence parts. Sell it for £55 as a miracle strip. To do what? Make one feel better?
Monster sold speaker wire with ends marked for amp and speaker. Connect that wire's speaker end to an amp, then sound was perverted. So said Monster and therefore so many naive consumers. Many consumers could even hear a difference if wire was reversed. Monster sold £3 speaker wire for £30. Same applies to that power strip with 'essential' protection. Scams are that easily promoted.
If an obscenely overpriced £55 protector is needed, then a 'whole house' protector is essential for tens of times less money per protected appliance. In some telco facilities, an employee could be fired for installing that power strip due to above listed problems. They take fire serioiusly.
Lindy even admits it is grossly undersized. It disconnects protector parts on a first or second surge. While leaving that surge still connected to appliances. Why would anyone spend so much money on a protector that grossly undersized? Monster is selling speaker wire. You also need that. Better protection is provided by prayer.
Best (safer) is a PDU without any protector parts - if a 'whole house' solution is not earthed to protect it. If a 'whole house' solution is not needed, then clearly that £55 power strip with near zero protection has no useful purpose.
Can this be any easier? If you do not need the 'whole house' solution for about £1 per protected appliance, then why spend £55 on a power strip that can make electronics damage easier? Why is this so hard?Are you evading the question because you don't know? Are your ramblings applicable with UK power?
Can this be any easier? If you do not need the 'whole house' solution for about £1 per protected appliance, then why spend £55 on a power strip that can make electronics damage easier? Why is this so hard?
I can appreciate that. An answer without intending to be insulting. It would explain why so many others also do not get it. Many do not want to know why. They only want to be told what to do.Because I'm skim reading your elongated responses and you aren't making the answer obvious......
I was under the impression though that UK houses were all earthed anyway at the sockets? Hence why UK has a 3 pin plug and EU/US have 2 pins?
First, do not confuse safety ground (in wall receptacles) with earth ground. Even if interconnected, they remain electrically different. A tester plugged into a wall socket might detect a defective safety ground. But can never detect the earth ground. We confuse UK citizens by calling a safety ground an earth ground.I was under the impression though that UK houses were all earthed anyway at the sockets?
Please read with greater care. As stated so many times, earth ground does not exist in sockets. The phrase 'low impedance' makes that obvious. Obviously no socket makes a less than 3 meter connection to earth. Repeatedly stated - a protector connected to sockets does not do and does not claim protection from destructive surges. Obviously a £55 strip has no earth ground; does not provide effective protection. A typical UPS features even less protection.So if I'm reading this correctly.....
Every socket in the house should have a low impedance single point earth ground that should be within 3 meters?
Appreciate what you do not know about electricity. For example, connect a 200 watt transmitter to a long wire antenna. Touch one part of that antenna and feel no voltage. Touch another part of that same wire and be shocked by maybe more than 100 volts. How can two completely different voltages appear on the same wire? Electricity does not work as many only assume. Resistance (ie due to wire thickness) is completely different from impedance (more detemined by wire length, sharp bends, inside conduit, splices, and other factors).Low impedance has absolutely nothing to do with sharp bends. Impedance, the resistance to flowing current with an applied voltage,
Due to the lead length effect, on a 120V circuit a typical TVSS device with a 330V SVR, would require a wiring length of less than 12" to adequately protect against a 500A 8/20µs impulse. The rule of thumb is each foot of wiring adds an additional 50-200V of let-through voltage.
Or MTL's Earthing guide for surge protection, page 7:The real problem is the haphazard use of common all-mode protectors at AC outlets or outlet strips. In many cases, this practice causes either system noise problems or hardware damage. ... ground wires may be quite long. Most transient over-voltages are high-frequency events, having most of their energy well above 100 kHz. At these frequencies, long wires, regardless of their gauge, have high impedance and will develop extremely high voltage drops when carrying the high current pulses created by MOV clamping. ... This voltage is likely to reduce interface circuitry in the computer, printer or both to silicon vapor. More frequent low-voltage spikes (down to the low-current MOV clamp of 300 V or so) will still cause high-current pulses to flow in the same loop. ... The absolute best place to guard against incoming spikes and surges is at the service entry panel or a sub-panel that powers everything in an interconnected system.
Why so much voltage on such short wire? Impedance. Not resisitance - impedance. Not learning basic electrical concepts (ie impedance) explains spending tens of times more money (ie £55) on adjacent protectors that may be undersized and that do not claim to protect from destructive surges.In conclusion - keep all surge earth cables as short as possible!
A minimally sized protector for any home or commercial building is 50,000 amps.
Not learning basic electrical concepts (ie impedance) explains spending tens of times more money (ie £55) on adjacent protectors that may be undersized and that do not claim to protect from destructive surges.
Meanwhile you have again assumed protection is by disconnecting. Show me the so many millisecond disconnecting devices that can block a microsecond surge? Show me the millimeter gap that can block what three kilometers of sky cannot? Unfortuntately, most know only from their assumption - do not first learn facts with numbers. Protection is not provided by disconnecting.
A simple rule. A protector is only as effective as its earth ground. That explains superior 'whole house' protectors from Keison, Siemens, and ABB.
This problem was so common that UL1449 was created. The problem remains.The specific case that these become overloaded and cause fire/catastrophic failure in the remainder of your property/goods is almost unheard of.
Today, the cable company came to replace a wire. Well the cable man pulled a wire and somehow yanked loose their "ground" wire. The granddaughter on the computer yelled and ran because sparks and smoke were coming from the power surge strip.
Source was found to be a burnt power strip from a computer.
In the office area they discovered a small fire burning behind the desk. A portable fire extinguisher was used to suppress the flames and an investigation was initiated.
Within that firehouse, three separate surge suppressors were recovered and examined. Each had failed, the one caught on fire, another suppressor ceased working, while the third continued working but later was found to have failed internally. ...
When fire investigators examine fire scenes where surge suppressors are involved in the ignition few know what patterns indicate failed MOV's. If not properly collected, suppressor parts cannot be carefully examined to determine involvement, ...
Alternatively, fire investigators m[a]y ... improperly categorize the cause as overloading or other related failure initiated by the user.
The two alarm fire engulfed an apartment building on Louis Prang
Street. The fire was sparked by a surge protector on the second floor. The
device is supposed to protect from fires.
Cheap surge protectors have been known to catch fire (in one case, a Fire Station was burnt out; the red faced fireman later learnt it was due to the cheap surge protector/power strip in the office)
So while I was at work my house went up into smoke... no fire thank
Jesus! My surge protector had 6 things plugged into it... Return pump, T5's, PowerHead, Heater, Skimmer and a cheap "reptile" light I use to see my sump when im topping off/cleaning. something happened (not sure what)
but 5 of the 6 were melted into the surge protector. they wont even come out of it they are melted in so bad.... None of my breakers in the house tripped nor did the surge turn off....
I also have chills when you said they're looking at the power strip. I had this happen a couple months ago, and God willing, it somehow went out by itself. ...
That APC power strip was in a wooden desk on a shelf, with a printer, a MacBook, and a pair of amplified speakers plugged in. The fault was within the power strip, as nothing was faulty in the items plugged in. I think there was a disc capacitor as a spike supressor across the AC line in the power strip, which decided to short and burst into flames. And APC is supposedly a good power strip. This was not a battery backup; just a simple outlet strip with surge protector. ...
A pre-dawn fire at a home here yesterday was caused by a surge protector/power strip that overheated and caught fire, the township fire company chief reported today.
Chief Jason Narbonne said today that the surge protector wasn't overloaded; none of the electronics attached to it were in use and the protector appeared to be a newer model.
"It wasn't one of the surge protectors that was recalled," the chief said. "It was faulty."
Fire is just another reason why plug-in protectors need protection provided by a properly earthed 'whole house' solution.... while failing, they can reach very high temperatures, and actually start fires.
All I'm asking for is a product number, and you're ducking the question.