**AMD Fiji Thread**

[Gerard]

I think I am safe.

I think you'll run into issues putting them all up the top, you're gonna have hoses over the top of other hoses and a lot of clutter to deal with, assuming they all can reach.

 

[Mtom]

I'd reverse that top left 120 to pull air IN to the case, not exhausting. The hot air from the fury has already exited, use the top 120 to supply fresh air to the top rad.

The way you have it seems like there will be a lot of pressure, and not enough cool air.

This is my setup, so i will just install the Fury rad in the place of the back fan.

 

[Silent_Scone]

Kaap, you're buying the case specifically for that purpose? Don't you have a loop lol? EK blocks are ready to shift come NDA lift.

 

[Kaapstad]

I think you'll run into issues putting them all up the top, you're gonna have hoses over the top of other hoses and a lot of clutter to deal with, assuming they all can reach.

If done right it should be quite tidy.

And then there is waterblocks when available.

 

[Silent_Scone]

I'm building one into a Silverstone GD09.

 

[whyscotty]

You may get away with 2 Kaaps.

As you're getting 4, wait for the blocks

 

[Kaapstad]

You may get away with 2 Kaaps.

As you're getting 4, wait for the blocks

Tubes on the cards are 400mm plus their rad thickness which should be enough but if I want a bit of slack I can use extra fans as well in push/pull which gives another 25mm.

If that is not enough I can just take the top 480mm rad out of the loop and attach the cards to that. I love quick disconnects in a water loop.

 

[Eclectic]

This is my setup, so i will just install the Fury rad in the place of the back fan.

Looks lovely!

 

[LoadsaMoney]

My fan set-up is this.

Default NZXT case fans, apart from the bottom one, so 200mm top, 200mm front, 140mm rear, and on the bottom ive added a 120mm Noctua NF A14 FLX as an intake, the 200mm that was an intake on the side panel, ive disconnected, as it put my card temp up by a degree, so ill just remove the 140mm from the rear as said, and pop the Rad there.

Could probably put it at the top next to the 200mm (if it would reach that far up), but would be a faff on, as to get the top of the case off, id have to remove both side panels, and the front panel, but for the rear, i'll only need to take the other side panel off, to disconnect the fan

 

[Silent_Scone]

I love quick disconnects in a water loop.

It's a crime to build a loop without them

 

[whyscotty]

Tubes on the cards are 400mm plus their rad thickness which should be enough but if I want a bit of slack I can use extra fans as well in push/pull which gives another 25mm.

If that is not enough I can just take the top 480mm rad out of the loop and attach the cards to that. I love quick disconnects in a water loop.

I look forward to seeing your spaghetti junction

 

[ubersonic]

It's a crime to build a loop without them

Pfft, additional points of failure I don't need

 

[Besty]

No Hasslehoff. No Sale.

 

[ubersonic]

The screws are not symmetrically positioned with the perforated backplate either :O

 

[Silent_Scone]

Pfft, additional points of failure I don't need

Hi, I have around 8 in my loop in total and have never had to replace one in two years

 

[LoadsaMoney]

Do we know how long the hoses are to the rad ?

 

[Kaapstad]

Do we know how long the hoses are to the rad ?

400mm

 

[Gerard]

Do we know how long the hoses are to the rad ?

400mm.

 

[Orangey]

LOL sums up the nitpickers nicely.

 

[LoadsaMoney]

400mm

400mm.

so thats just under 16inches, thanks