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GTX 980 Ti C92 capacitor broken off

Allygash

Allygash

Allygash

Associate
Joined
10 Dec 2015
Posts
18
Any idea where I may get a replacement from? The spec has to be spot on i'm told. The 3 capacitors are the C92 C301 & C91 they are for the Power stage of gtx 980 ti I believe. The sticker on the other 2 capacitors says 330 51F3F d on it.

Do you think i can run it without one of them? Its the C92 capacitor thats broken off & missing.

Thanx in advance

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They don't chuck components on for a laugh, of course you can't run it safely without it! lawl
looks like a 330uF Tantalum cap. to me, however I'd meter out the other two to check the correct farad rating.
As for replacing it that's gonna be tricky as this is a very highly spec'ed and tuned circuit so soldering in a substitute that is not practically identical (farad, ESR, voltage ..etc) might cause problems!!
However I'd be tempted to get the values of the other 2 caps and try to grab an almost identical SMC Tantalum cap off ebay, shouldn't cost more than a few quid and worth a shot!
 
Depends on the function of the capacitor, it might be fine, it might blow up.

Given the value of the card I would seek a repair from someone who is SMD soldering competent.
 
You will also need to know the case size so measure the size of the part and then google tant cap case size, also the cap is polarised so needs to be fitted the correct way. So you need to know the value, voltage and correct case size. I would also advise on getting a proffessional repair as it is very easy to put too much heat into the pads which will cause them to lift.
 
Unless you're very good at soldering, that's a monkeys worth card down the drain. Sorry for your loss.
 
Thanx for the help guys, ok i'll try see if gigabyte uk will repair it for for me. I bought it in Singapore but i'm now repatriated back to the UK and the warranty is not international plus its got an EK block on it... :) The damage was caused by DHL when they shipped it with some other PC hardware back to me in the UK.

Don't and I repeat don't ever use DHL to ship anything fragile. My jumbo 6 box looked like it had traveled back to me via Syria....the damage to the box and its contents boarding on the criminal. I've reached an agreement with DHL so wont comment any further on them...

PS- yes i used bubble wrap, re-enforced cardboard and even some foam inserts but they still managed to smash it all up
 
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If your any good at soldering you can get some SMD caps off ebay and fix it yourself, I just had a look through my electronics box but I don't have any 330uf SMD.
 
Stanners said:
Might be worth checking with your home insurance, Maybe covered under accidental damage. You have nothing to loose :(
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Many years ago when working in a computer shop I managed to scavenge a dead QDI dual slot board worth an arm and a leg. I sent it back to QDI and got it replaced and then chucked in a couple of P2 233s and some ram. I fitted my GPUs (32mb 3Dlabs Oxygen and SLI Voodoo 2) and it was lovely.

My wife (ex) was messing with the modem one day (we had a external one) and it dropped down the back of the PC. There was a huge bang and that was it..

Any way, phoned the insurance company who immediately demanded to collect the rig.

Phoned them two weeks later and they advised me to basically send them some quotes. Not being greedy I thought I would just quote for a new P4 rig, costing around £800. I phoned the ins company once the quotes had arrived and she was busting my chops with crap like "Your system was Pentium 2, there's no way I am paying out for a P4 rig" and so on. So, figuring I was pulling a fast one she sent the rig to the damage loss investigators.

Got an email about a week later stating I could either take £3000 or have them build a dual P3 rig with all sorts of goodies in. I took the cash...

So yeah, definitely one for your insurance though do bear in mind your premiums will all go up if you do claim.
 
Allygash said:
i'll try see if gigabyte uk will repair it for for me.
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That is probably the most sensible option.

However, it looks like a 330uf cap (as mentioned previously). It shouldn't be too difficult to fit a replacement, but you need to be sure of the voltage rating. The "330" gives away the capacitance value, but there's nothing to suggest what the voltage rating is. I suspect this capacitor is a decoupler in the VRM power stage. I doubt that it's too critical to get an exact replacement, as long as you get a 330uf cap with a high enough voltage rating.
 
Did that once with a 680 when I removed the cooler. I was lucky enough to find the components and a colleague of mine at work who was into electronics soldered them back on for me - even did a solder bridge on the board as the pcb had suffered a bit of damage as well. That card is still in my system going strong. So definitely possible to do.

Here is a link to the thread.
 
Being a bad hand on the iron i have repaired a number of cards and motherboards with damage like this all have been totally fine. Getting hold of the component is the hardest part. Just find the component and some one who can solder.
 
Deleted member 2277 said:
You will also need to know the case size so measure the size of the part and then google tant cap case size, also the cap is polarised so needs to be fitted the correct way. So you need to know the value, voltage and correct case size. I would also advise on getting a proffessional repair as it is very easy to put too much heat into the pads which will cause them to lift.
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I believe the D marking is the size - IIRC the number code is for a ~6V part but I'd probably go as high voltage as you can just to be safe (won't do any harm, might give you some negligible bonus to ripple handling).

Doubt there is anything on the GPU running above 12V - commonly on a GPU somewhere in the region of 0.5-5V with a few bits at 12V.

EDIT: Anything over 16V is probably a waste as I highly doubt there is more than 12V to deal with (you want around 30% voltage headroom).

EDIT2: If you do end up soldering it then make sure you use some flux - makes SMD/SMT work 100x easier and ideally a ~0.5mm taper needle tip - I spent like 4 hours once when I only had one of the chisel like tips available to do what normally takes 20 seconds.
 
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Rroff said:
I believe the D marking is the size - IIRC the number code is for a ~6V part but I'd probably go as high voltage as you can just to be safe (won't do any harm, might give you some negligible bonus to ripple handling).

Doubt there is anything on the GPU running above 12V - commonly on a GPU somewhere in the region of 0.5-5V with a few bits at 12V.

EDIT: Anything over 16V is probably a waste as I highly doubt there is more than 12V to deal with (you want around 30% voltage headroom).

EDIT2: If you do end up soldering it then make sure you use some flux - makes SMD/SMT work 100x easier and ideally a ~0.5mm taper needle tip - I spent like 4 hours once when I only had one of the chisel like tips available to do what normally takes 20 seconds.
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Good post.

(And a similar signature spec, which makes sense. Lol !)

Actually, it's not a similar signature spec, I was looking at the previous post. Christmas spirit is not always a good thing. ;)
 
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