Plumbing in Fridge water dispenser - sanity check

Mr. Peri Peri

Mr. Peri Peri

Mr. Peri Peri

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After wasting an entire day of work waiting in for a plumber who kept telling me he was on the way, picked up the materials etc only to not show up, I'm going to attempt to plumb in the water dispenser to our fridge.

Not done anything like this before but I've worked out a plan and what bits I think I need - just wanted someone to cast an eye over it let me know if I'm missing anything.

The fridge is an LG GSL545WBQV.

1/4" pipe is already run from the fridge to under the sink, it just needs connecting up.

Currently the dish washer is connected under the sink where the mains enter the house:

MLJWyLO.jpg


My plan is to turn off the water at the stop ****, disconnect the dishwasher and install a new tee, like this one:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/p701-05-equal-tee-15mm-x-15mm-x-15mm-2-pack/95632

One side of the tee, I will reconnect the dishwasher.

On the other side of the tee, I will install a reducer from 3/4" to 1/4" like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00ALVC8VC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AI61N2VIVFUYQ&psc=1

Then an in-line tap:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0049GWVSU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=AI61N2VIVFUYQ&psc=1

Then the filter, and then to the fridge.

So a couple of questions....

Is this OK to do? Anything I've missed?

Should I use PTFE tape on the metal on metal connections e.g. when installing the new tee.

Seems straight forward enough but like I say first time doing anything like this so worth checking first!

Thanks
 
That will work no issues providing adequate room for the added extra T piece, I wouldn't use PTFE tape. Providing the olives and seals are correctly fitted that should be enough. Are you running the Water pipe to the freezer via behind the kick board or is the fridge/freezer close to the cupboard being drilled ?.
Also, a friend of mine had a LG GSL545..... the freezer door would freeze up internally thus freezing the water supply line to the Ice maker etc. Unsure if this has been fixed at the manufacturing stage but he had to get an upgraded insulated door, free of charge of course.
As always, be careful of the electrical switch underneath the cupboard that looks quite low but should be ok.
 
dark-knight said:
That will work no issues providing adequate room for the added extra T piece, I wouldn't use PTFE tape. Providing the olives and seals are correctly fitted that should be enough. Are you running the Water pipe to the freezer via behind the kick board or is the fridge/freezer close to the cupboard being drilled ?.
Also, a friend of mine had a LG GSL545..... the freezer door would freeze up internally thus freezing the water supply line to the Ice maker etc. Unsure if this has been fixed at the manufacturing stage but he had to get an upgraded insulated door, free of charge of course.
As always, be careful of the electrical switch underneath the cupboard that looks quite low but should be ok.
Click to expand...

Thanks, much appreciated - I think the tee will fit just about. I'd rather squeeze one in than use a saddle valve higher up the line.

The pipe is run behind the kickboard and then under the skirting to the freezer - probably 4-5m away.

Interesting to note the problem regarding the door. We just moved into the house and the fridge came with it so if it does have a flaw at least it didn't cost us anything I guess!
 
dark-knight said:
That will work no issues providing adequate room for the added extra T piece, I wouldn't use PTFE tape. Providing the olives and seals are correctly fitted that should be enough. Are you running the Water pipe to the freezer via behind the kick board or is the fridge/freezer close to the cupboard being drilled ?.
Also, a friend of mine had a LG GSL545..... the freezer door would freeze up internally thus freezing the water supply line to the Ice maker etc. Unsure if this has been fixed at the manufacturing stage but he had to get an upgraded insulated door, free of charge of course.
As always, be careful of the electrical switch underneath the cupboard that looks quite low but should be ok.
Click to expand...

Just had another thought...

When removing the isolating valve for the dishwasher in order to connect the new tee, the olive will be clamped on to the pipe so won't be able to get that or the locking nut off. So should I use the locking nut and olive from the isolating valve with the new tee, and then use those same components from the tee with the isolating valve in its new position?
 
might have just gone for a brass 3/4" Y on existing valve, and re-attach washer on one leg and reducer 3/4->1/4" on the other (& direct to filter?)
I would not have run 1/4" flexible connected from mains input w/o a valve somewhere.

EDIT or, just saw, dual appliance T
 
I just connected mine last night based on your setup what about using one of these

http://www.screwfix.com/p/p701-05-equal-tee-15mm-x-15mm-x-15mm-2-pack/95632

then connecting your fridge up to one of these

http://www.screwfix.com/p/washing-machine-valve-without-check-valve-15mm-x/51231

you'll probably need a brass equivalent of this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00ALVC8VC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AI61N2VIVFUYQ&psc=1

I would use metal/brass connectors not sure about how long plastic will last.

btw I would suggest using PTFE tape on the washing machine valve specifically other than that using it everywhere wouldn't do any harm :)
I found last night that it was important to use it, otherwise one of the valves would leak.
 
jpaul said:
might have just gone for a brass 3/4" Y on existing valve, and re-attach washer on one leg and reducer 3/4->1/4" on the other (& direct to filter?)
I would not have run 1/4" flexible connected from mains input w/o a valve somewhere.

EDIT or, just saw, dual appliance T
Click to expand...

Thanks.

I think I will get away with a tee, probably not a Y based on the lack of clearance in the cupboard.

Obviously I don't know a lot about plumbing so when you say "I would not have run 1/4" flexible from mains w/o a valve" is that referencing something in the current setup, or what I was proposing to do? I would definitely want a valve in there and it looks like there's one there already for the dishwasher so just want to check I'm not missing anything and have a dodgy setup!
 
psd99 said:
I just connected mine last night based on your setup what about using one of these

http://www.screwfix.com/p/p701-05-equal-tee-15mm-x-15mm-x-15mm-2-pack/95632

then connecting your fridge up to one of these

http://www.screwfix.com/p/washing-machine-valve-without-check-valve-15mm-x/51231

you'll probably need a brass equivalent of this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00ALVC8VC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AI61N2VIVFUYQ&psc=1

I would use metal/brass connectors not sure about how long plastic will last.

btw I would suggest using PTFE tape on the washing machine valve specifically other than that using it everywhere wouldn't do any harm :)
I found last night that it was important to use it, otherwise one of the valves would leak.
Click to expand...

Thanks. That seems to match my plan so that's good! I'll grab some PTFE just in case, it's only cheap anyway
 
Mr. Peri Peri said:
or what I was proposing to do?
Click to expand...
yes, with your original proposal, seemed you would be running from mains in, through onto 1/4" flexible before you arrived at the 'in-line' tap you proposed,
1/4" is less robust so I would want a valve before getting too that ... but maybe a trained plumber will comment ?
 
jpaul said:
yes, with your original proposal, seemed you would be running from mains in, through onto 1/4" flexible before you arrived at the 'in-line' tap you proposed,
1/4" is less robust so I would want a valve before getting too that ... but maybe a trained plumber will comment ?
Click to expand...

Ah got ya - makes sense. Good shout - would probably be better off with a 3/4" isolation valve (similar to the one to the dishwasher) from the tee, then in to the reducer and filter.

Thanks
 
Hopefully this advice is not too late.

Make sure you put ptfe tape around each olive (not the thread) on the compression joint and don't over tighten, just turn until you get just past the pinch point. Then it'll be leak proof forever :)
 
NVP said:
Hopefully this advice is not too late.

Make sure you put ptfe tape around each olive (not the thread) on the compression joint and don't over tighten, just turn until you get just past the pinch point. Then it'll be leak proof forever :)
Click to expand...

Thanks - no not too late, think I saw that in a youtube video too so will do that.

The only thing I'm not sure about is when removing the existing isolation valve for the dishwasher - there will be an olive on the pipe and therefore a nut that cannot be removed, so presumably I will have to cut the olive off and fit a new one with the new tee piece, and then a new olive for the dishwasher isolation valve once it goes back in its new position (on one end of the tee).

In fact, now I've typed that out, I can see a problem with this plan. The isolation valve is a compression fitting - it can't just screw on to the tee... so without a new section of pipe this idea isn't going to work!

Although it looks like @jpaul suggestion of the dual applicance tee would work, so will go with that.

So....

Remove the existing isolation valve for the dishwasher. Replace with the dual applicance tee, and put dishwasher off one side and a reducer on the other to the water filter.

Would there be any issue reusing the existing nut and olive from the dishwasher isolation valve for the new dual tee? Or should I remove them and use the new ones that come with the tee?
 
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