Does wd40 and the like penetrate bolts
- Thread starter jsmoke
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Soldato
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Not sure how well a blow torch work on car bolts near lights as there's typically some bodywork nearby
(although I know under the gear blowtorch use is common).
This guy and AvE are great for all sorts of info and they both refuse affiliate links to keep content unbiased. AvE is not family friendly language and is why I won’t link his penetrating fluid vids .
Not sure how well a blow torch work on car bolts near lights as there's typically some bodywork nearby
As per the OPs other thread he's trying to remove the axle bolt. A penetrating oil may work if you've got time to keep spraying it on and letting it soak. As I said in the other thread we had to use heat on the bolt in order to get it to budge.
WTF sort of random response is that
Especially since in a thread with nearly 30k posts, Dis86 has commented 13 times.....pretty much looks like he doesn't give a **** about him.Anyway, I might try out some of the other suggestions as I have 4 nuts I'm trying to undo on the inside of the door to my inset multi-fuel burner, to be able to replace the glass, and as you can imagine they are rusted on tight. Have sprayed them with WD40 for 5 days before attempting and they will not budge.
Am worried about shearing the bolt, as they are studs that are part of the door frame.
Wire brush the threads, spray penetrating oil, leave to soak have a fag or coffee or dump come back spray some more oil, try to undo, aware at it, try again, sware at it some more, try again, swear, throw tools, get the gas, try again, sware again try again, get ***** off and burn the ****** out, have a smoke or coffee.
* Please fully star out swear words. Thank you - EVH *
* Please fully star out swear words. Thank you - EVH *
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If the bolt is sized in a bush your not getting it out with penetrating oil. There’s nowere for the oil to penatrate. Heat and a a few ***** with a hammer might work but you’ve destroyed the bush with heat. Cut the bolt and replace bushed part and bolt.
- the effect of the vapour, from his research .. there some fairly high fraction petroleates in the plus-gas, anyway. ... homebrew versions apparently use acetone.
..I started dosing plus-gas on some exhaust bolts days before I did the work .. but I guess, it evaporates quickly too, as it penetrates, so may have been of limited benefit,
that brands can, didn't have pipe attachment for accurate application either.
Soldato
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Oops I misread it as penetrating fluid to get out bolts in a bulb (in my defence the next thread down at the time was headlight bulbs
).
WTF sort of random response is that
Anyway, I might try out some of the other suggestions as I have 4 nuts I'm trying to undo on the inside of the door to my inset multi-fuel burner, to be able to replace the glass, and as you can imagine they are rusted on tight. Have sprayed them with WD40 for 5 days before attempting and they will not budge.
Am worried about shearing the bolt, as they are studs that are part of the door frame.
Correct! I really don't care about him. Just bemused he's still alive tbh!
As for your bolt issue - WD-40 is at the weaker end of penetrants, it's really designed as a water displacer (hence the WD bit). There are better types on the market. 5 days is plenty of time for it to work if it's going to work.
I'm confused by your description - you've got nuts that you're trying to undo, but you're worried about shearing the bolt as they are studs?
Got a pic?
Without looking the I'd suggest heat would be your next port of call.
Where did I say anything about shearing and studs?
I was quite clearly replying to Freakbro...Hence quoting him.
Soldato
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I find Plus Gas much better at freeing up bolts than WD40
I converted the local alignment garage to using this over WD40 and they couldn’t believe the diffference they didn’t need to get the blow torch out as often.
I converted the local alignment garage to using this over WD40 and they couldn’t believe the diffference they didn’t need to get the blow torch out as often.
Soldato
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I have a can of PB Blaster but after the Project Farm vid (he's really good BTW) I just use WD40 if it's nearer to hand.
My top tip is once you get a bit of movement don't stop for a chill knowing you've cracked the bolt and it'll be plain sailing, keep going because the heat generated cracking the bond between nut and bolt will help you remove it completely.
My top tip is once you get a bit of movement don't stop for a chill knowing you've cracked the bolt and it'll be plain sailing, keep going because the heat generated cracking the bond between nut and bolt will help you remove it completely.
Soldato
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Is it just heating up bolth the male and female part cracks off the rust and allows some movement?
It's the thermal expansion of the two components relative to one another. One always expands more thus opening the joint.
This is a stock pic of the front of the fire https://media.whatstove.co.uk/m/i/tablet/PD1.0/esse-350-stove-page-super-size-image-.jpeg
You can just make out the small circles in the inner grey border, the two at the bottom are clearer. They are the end of the bolt (stud?) that goes through to the inside and hold metal plates in place to hold the glass in. The nuts on those have seized as they are basically inside the firebox. They're quite small.
@Freakbro I think I see.
So you have that outer section with 4 threaded studs that are a fixed part of it?
You then have a glass screen which is I'm guessing held in place by a metal plate fastened to the studs with small nuts?
So you have that outer section with 4 threaded studs that are a fixed part of it?
You then have a glass screen which is I'm guessing held in place by a metal plate fastened to the studs with small nuts?