Decided to go with a front distroplate on my O11 XL which tubes

the wopster

the wopster

the wopster

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I have Decided change my water cooling and go with a front distroplate on my O11 XL, which way would people say is better to hardline? Would I be better buying the pre-bent tubes or go with elbow fittings?
Also is there any real difference between EK/XSPC/Corsair fittings?
 
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What's making you go hardline? Though it does look so clean and professional. I'd get a heat gun, those pre-bent tubes are expensive. £45 - £55 ish...

Depends on the look you're after. 90s do look nice on each end but some go for bends for more flow rate. Ever looked at GGF for inspiration?


Also had a look at EK's new Matrix7 line?
 
PETG tubes and bend yourself. Since you are getting a front distro plate, only really need right angle bends which is easy enough to do and cheaper than pre-bends. Just bend a tube about 2-5cm longer than what it should be on either end, then shave it down to an exact fit
 
If you're going hardline then have a practice bending your own tubes. Looks boat loads nicer than 90 degree adapters everywhere.

Also, don't touch that PETG trash with a barge pole, acrylic all the way.
 
LePhuronn said:
If you're going hardline then have a practice bending your own tubes. Looks boat loads nicer than 90 degree adapters everywhere.

Also, don't touch that PETG trash with a barge pole, acrylic all the way.
Click to expand...
Here’s how it turned out my hands are in bits after cutting all the acrylic what a PITA it was, I have ordered some more acrylic to practice bending so I can take out the 90s
2G1mnbL.jpg
 
What's the temperatures like compared to the soft tube setup? I cannot tell if I'm reading the photo right, looks like 34 or 36c on the water?

LePhuronn said:
If you're going hardline then have a practice bending your own tubes. Looks boat loads nicer than 90 degree adapters everywhere.

Also, don't touch that PETG trash with a barge pole, acrylic all the way.
Click to expand...

That depends though. Some fittings look very nice on the ends everywhere. 5:15.
 
V F said:
What's the temperatures like compared to the soft tube setup? I cannot tell if I'm reading the photo right, looks like 34 or 36c on the water?



That depends though. Some fittings look very nice on the ends everywhere. 5:15.
Click to expand...
Seem about the same, I’m waiting for a new water temperature sensor to come as I snapped the wire on my old one
 
woppy101 said:
Quick question guys, is there anything easier than a fine tooth hacksaw to cut acrylic tubing, my hands are in bits and there are some bits I want to redo, will one of those pipe cutters work?

this one here
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/raij...nd-bending-kit-for-14mm-tubing-wc-01r-rt.html
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No. Those pipe cutters are only for PETG tubing. The acrylic tubing wil shatter if you use those. Mini Hacksaw is the best method of cutting. I've seen some people use these.. but are only worth it, if you are building hard loops frequently.. if it's just one build every few years, no point:

2 Inch Mini Bench Top Cut-Off Saw

I use a hacksaw, and a PFB drill bit by Primochill to help shorten and/or chamfer the edges
 
im4gine3 said:
No. Those pipe cutters are only for PETG tubing. The acrylic tubing wil shatter if you use those. Mini Hacksaw is the best method of cutting. I've seen some people use these.. but are only worth it, if you are building hard loops frequently.. if it's just one build every few years, no point:

2 Inch Mini Bench Top Cut-Off Saw

I use a hacksaw, and a PFB drill bit by Primochill to help shorten and/or chamfer the edges
Click to expand...
Is PVC not the same as acrylic to cut?
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/bitspower-metal-tubing-cutting-tool-wc-669-bp.html

I’m considering getting one of those saws
 
Because I can't cut straight to save my life (bad wrists), I designed and 3D printed a chop saw thingy to screw my Dremel into. Worked OK but only if you want to make a cut less than 30mm from the end of the tube; Dremel gets in the way then :p Might rework it to use the flexible drive shaft instead.

What was really good though is a 3D printed clamp for my tubing. It's screwed to the desk and clamps the tube firmly enough to stop any play, so the only pressure you have to exert is the sawing motion. I will upgrade it soon to include actual metal guides to ensure my cuts are square. I also printed a reamer guide too to keep deburring and chamfering square.

Are you seeing a pattern there with my inability to cut straight? :D
 
LePhuronn said:
Because I can't cut straight to save my life (bad wrists), I designed and 3D printed a chop saw thingy to screw my Dremel into. Worked OK but only if you want to make a cut less than 30mm from the end of the tube; Dremel gets in the way then :p Might rework it to use the flexible drive shaft instead.

What was really good though is a 3D printed clamp for my tubing. It's screwed to the desk and clamps the tube firmly enough to stop any play, so the only pressure you have to exert is the sawing motion. I will upgrade it soon to include actual metal guides to ensure my cuts are square. I also printed a reamer guide too to keep deburring and chamfering square.

Are you seeing a pattern there with my inability to cut straight? :D
Click to expand...
I was really struggling to get it straight TBH, which is why I’m contemplating getting that mini saw
 
I've yet to find one of those mini saws in the UK for decent money, but maybe I'm too cheap/poor to drop £50 on one :P But like I said, I have a 3D printer and some level of design ability so made up my own tools and helpers.

If you do get a mini saw, post where you got it and how much, I'd be interested in having a gander.
 
Not really required tbh.. the most cheapest option would be to sand the tube down using normal sand paper or wet and dry after cutting it to size with a hacksaw.. otherwise an rfb drill bit from primochill will do the trick
 
im4gine3 said:
Not really required tbh.. the most cheapest option would be to sand the tube down using normal sand paper or wet and dry after cutting it to size with a hacksaw.. otherwise an rfb drill bit from primochill will do the trick
Click to expand...
The drill bit is the same price as the mini saw
 
woppy101 said:
The drill bit is the same price as the mini saw
Click to expand...
Although the Primochill bit is intended to do the chamfering, the trick with it is it'll also trim down excess lengths and square the ends at the same time. So yes the chop saw will get you square cuts, you still have to chamfer and have to faff about if you cut too long.

That being said, I've seen highly variable reviews of the Primochill bit. Firstly it only works on PETG, second the bearing has a tendency to scratch the inside of the tube, which might not be fully concealed by the setting depth of some fittings. I've also seen reviews that sometimes it's tricky to actually set the thing square to begin with (thus negating the point), and also the blade tolerances are tested solely against Primochill's tubing, so sometimes it doesn't fit properly with others or the blades themselves don't bite and actually chamfer.

Plus there's the fact each bit is designed for 1 tube size.

tl:dr, unless Primochill have revised the thing, don't bother IMO :P
 
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