Tabletop Warhammer?

@roman59 your output is incredible. Are you banish from the house or something?

I think I’ve put in around 20+ hours from Saterday on the Crusader squad building stage and I still ain’t finished. Just the heads to clean up and blue tac on for priming!!
 
Bigpig said:
@roman59 your output is incredible. Are you banish from the house or something?

I think I’ve put in around 20+ hours from Saterday on the Crusader squad building stage and I still ain’t finished. Just the heads to clean up and blue tac on for priming!!
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Thanks for the compliments, I am in between jobs at present as I do contract work, so I have a bit of time on my hands to get this stuff painted ;)
 
It's weird with painting. I won't be motivated to do any sometimes for weeks and then I'm happily spend a whole day on it but there is never any consistency with me wanting to do it.
 
I’ve really got the bug atm hence so many hours put in this week. Started to use my side cutters more and everyone should grab a pair. Night and day compared to normal snips. Don’t really believe there’s much difference in the brands. Maybe if your building gumpla with all those flat surfaces.

Hoping to get the models primed tonight after work. Have everything in my arsenal now to get them done start to finish including basing.
 
Bigpig said:
I’ve really got the bug atm hence so many hours put in this week. Started to use my side cutters more and everyone should grab a pair. Night and day compared to normal snips. Don’t really believe there’s much difference in the brands. Maybe if your building gumpla with all those flat surfaces.

Hoping to get the models primed tonight after work. Have everything in my arsenal now to get them done start to finish including basing.
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Personally I would not be without the Tamiya side cutters that I use plus my sanding pen as well.

Both of the above speeds up the assembly process a lot.


tyrellmodels.co.uk

Dspiae Modellers Electric Grinding Pen – Precision & Power for Model Makers | Tyrell Models

The Dspiae Modellers Electric Grinding Pen is an essential addition to your toolkit. This tool ensures your models achieve the perfect finish every time.
tyrellmodels.co.uk tyrellmodels.co.uk
 
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Noxia said:
Oh I didn't know those existed and as they aren't expensive I think I shall get one.
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Get the tool with the rod that has the 6mm dia flat on it, plus the self adhesive sanding pads to go with it.

It really gets rid of the flash left behind after the model has been cut off the sprue, perfect little tool which saves so much time, the sanding pads can be used wet or dry too.
 
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Evening chaps! I'm getting back into the hobby after a 30ish year break!

So far I have picked up the 40k introduction set, a pack of Ork and Gretchin and a few extra paints so I'm still gathering stuff before taking the painting plunge again

Can anyone recommend some cheapo sources for basing materials, grass, gravel etc?
 
dtokez said:
Evening chaps! I'm getting back into the hobby after a 30ish year break!

So far I have picked up the 40k introduction set, a pack of Ork and Gretchin and a few extra paints so I'm still gathering stuff before taking the painting plunge again

Can anyone recommend some cheapo sources for basing materials, grass, gravel etc?
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Your cheapest would be cork board and play sand. Prime it and paint it the colour of your choice.

The best bang for buck would be the AK Interactive terrain line. The wargame range is 6 pound for a big pot and the even bigger value range is the diorama line at around 9-10 pot. Pick your colour/texture of choice or you can paint over it.

Grass you got two options. You can pick up grass flock from various companies or “grass turfs” GamerGrass is the superior choice for grass turfs. 4quid to 8ish depending on packet you like. Most have around 70 tuffs.

Geeks gamer scenics also do a base ready mix. PVA the base and just dip. Lots of variety’s.
 
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Finish was fantastic. Smooth, flat and slightly matte. Did a small test with a dry brush and rubbed off. Models are having a small bath in IPA. Hopefully get them re-primed today
 
Bigpig said:
Your cheapest would be cork board and play sand. Prime it and paint it the colour of your choice.

The best bang for buck would be the AK Interactive terrain line. The wargame range is 6 pound for a big pot and the even bigger value range is the diorama line at around 9-10 pot. Pick your colour/texture of choice or you can paint over it.

Grass you got two options. You can pick up grass flock from various companies or “grass turfs” GamerGrass is the superior choice for grass turfs. 4quid to 8ish depending on packet you like. Most have around 70 tuffs.

Geeks gamer scenics also do a base ready mix. PVA the base and just dip. Lots of variety’s.
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Thanks mate, I'll check that lot out - never managed to finish a good base back in the 90's, I'm keen too this time around :cry:

Are there any affordable airbrushes that are worth taking the plunge on?
 
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Bigpig said:
Finish was fantastic. Smooth, flat and slightly matte. Did a small test with a dry brush and rubbed off. Models are having a small bath in IPA. Hopefully get them re-primed today
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You really should try some Vallejo Mecha primer, I have got a bottle of white here and it beats the normal Vallejo white polyurethane primer hands down.

I ran it through my Ultra 2024 last sunday straight from the bottle just added a few drops of flow improver into the airbrush cup before adding in the primer.

The Mecha primer seems a lot more durable and less prone to little nicks from fingernails etc.

The John Blanche paint sets are arriving today as well :)
 
@roman59 At this point think I’m just going to run the normal Vallejo black to it’s empty. It’s a bit pitta to get going but it’s solid when it’s down. Wee bit of thinner and 40psi.

I wouldn’t even use that Pro Acryl as a base coat or for normal painting. Would hate to see it on resin or metal models.
 
Bigpig said:
@roman59 At this point think I’m just going to run the normal Vallejo black to it’s empty. It’s a bit pitta to get going but it’s solid when it’s down. Wee bit of thinner and 40psi.

I wouldn’t even use that Pro Acryl as a base coat or for normal painting. Would hate to see it on resin or metal models.
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I nearly bought a bottle of the Pro Acryl primer a couple of weeks ago, glad I didn't now.

Those 2 John Blanche paint sets arrived about an ago, looking forward to trying those out especially the rust effect paint that's included.
 
@dtokez if you can push to it the new H&S Ultra is £90 quid. Triple Chrome multiple, quick settings for various jobs. Extremely easy maintenance and parts ready available. Perfect for the beginner.

If you want something cheaper check out Gaahleri. If you’re starting off with airbrushing you don’t want to be fighting the tool.

@roman59 I do need a grey primer so might go for one of those Vallejo mecha primers.

Hopefully that’s the models rescued. Feels like two days wasted tho :/ The primer was that crap I didn’t even have to go near the sonic cleaner!!
 
dtokez said:
Thanks mate, I'll check that lot out - never managed to finish a good base back in the 90's, I'm keen too this time around :cry:

Are there any affordable airbrushes that are worth taking the plunge on?
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Go for the Harder and Steenbeck Ultra 2024, its a fantastic airbrush for the price plus its a joy to use very easy to clean and maintain, you may as well buy something decent to start with as opposed to buying a cheaper make then paying out more for a better airbrush 6 months down the line.

Graphic Air are selling them for £88 including free next day delivery.

Hope this helps ;)
 
Cheers guys. Am I right in thinking you can use the standard Citadel paints in them? I've bought quite a few :cry:

I guess it would probably be worth splashing out the extra, but I'm worried I'm getting a bit ahead of myself as I haven't even put paint to miniature yet, but I feel like If I'm going to get back into it after all these years I want to do it properly :D
 
Oh yes, meant to ask what about a compressor to run the airbrushes? I do have a big Hyundai compressor in my garage but not sure what's recommended?
 
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