After 6 months with EK Cryofuel - Never again ?

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Yes, but going by the pictures of the fins in the blocks it also looks like leeching from the tubing as well to me, especially as he describes it as tough to remove and like glue because that's exactly what plasticiser is like. Sticking to a single brand won't make any difference.


Preparation is important when setting up a new loop. Thoroughly flush out the radiators, either with a Mayhems kit of go the cheap option and use de-ionised water with distilled vinegar which a lot of us use on here.

Choose your components very carefully. Reading some reviews, especially of radiators, will help a lot. Custom watercooling is very expensive so get it right the first time and it will last you many years.

Check the blocks over and make sure all the screws are tight.

Never, ever mix metals in the loop, especially aluminium as you could end up with galvanic corrosion and you really don't want that. Have a read of this.

Make sure the pump is seated in the pump top or res properly.

Use a recommended brand of tubing, don't go for the most expensive thinking it's the best as that's not the case most of the time. I have used most brands and the only one I have never had plasticiser leeching from is Mayhems tubing which just happens to be just about the cheapest tubing available. I won't use anything else these days.

Take the time to carefully plan your runs of tubing. Ideally you want the shortest runs without kinking or looking untidy.

Do not use screws that are too long when fitting the fans to the radiator as you can easily puncture the tubes if they are directly under the screw.

Choose a good coolant that has all the additives that you need against corrosion and algae growth. Again, for me the best is Mayhems X1 and that's what I will always use. You could use de-ionised water and a silver kill coil but not if you have nickel in the loop as it will react with it and cause serious problems.

Before filling double and triple check everything. Make sure all the fittings are tightened up, no kinks in the tubing, everything is secure.

When filling take your time to avoid spillages. Place heaps of kitchen roll under joints, blocks, rads etc and do a leak test with just the pump running (no power to the pc) for a few hours.

If you are new to this there are plenty of guides on the internet so take the time to watch a few of them.

I did almost everything above except cleaning the rads, that is all really.

Red a lot of reviews, guides

Almost every cooland have some bad reviews of it braking up etc, you essentially can be just unlucky and that's it. I went with the most resistant S@!¥. Or say it the most popular "premium stuff" full nickel blocks and good rads.

Yes i made sure fittings are tight enough yes I made sure everything else is OK, and I failed, maybe because of the rads, maybe tubing that is sold with spec not as advertised, maybe the coolant.

I fought, I lost, now I rest :)
 
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Because that's how tubing is made

Then that's your problem right there. Radiators need extensive cleaning before use. Should that be the case? No. But that's just the way it is.

If you're going to invest hundreds of pounds to run water across thousands of pounds worth of electronics, it is naive (at the very least) to just "make assumptions". Did you assume anything else about your build, or did you research first? Why does this logic not apply then to the water cooling?

im pretty sure it states on ekwb radiators that they do not need flushing before install. naive to follow the instructions maybe?

but he used rads not from ekwb :(

i would just take it on the chin and remember it for future ventures. sometimes they can jsut have a bad batch. look at the grizzly thermal paste that is scratching up cpu ihs' thats been happening for well over a year and they dont even know what batch it is from...
 
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@pastymuncher Thanks for your reply. I'll give it quite a lot of thought.

Pretty sound advice only thing I’d suggest against is the blocks. The ones from Ekwb are pressure tested and torqued to spec.

Especially the acrylic ones can splinter over time and crack easily if the bolts are overtightened so I’d personally leave as is.

After that get the mayhems kit to clean the rads and system. Part 1 for rads only. Part 2 for the entire system.

Main thing is just to ensure you flush the rads several times. Fill them with water and shake. And clean and flush the entire loop several times before putting in coolant.

I usually leave the last end of a pipe disconnected so you can run coolant/watermix straight into a bowl. As otherwise it can dilute slightly with existing water in the loop used for flushing.
 
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6 years i had with the same tubing and de-ionised water and flushed it recently for an upgrade and my blocks were crystal clean! This is exactly why i don't use clear tubing or any other fluid except de-ionised water. I had issues before with mayhems pastel colours which caused staining and gunk building up not to mention clouded tubing.

In regards to radiator flushing, it is highly recommended to flush them whether they are new or not. For peace of mind and avoiding long term issues, what is 30 mins worth of work of flushing them even if its just with de-ionised water or hell even under the tap to clean out any particles left over.
 
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well you got away quiet good imho . I used colours and anti bac .in my last setup few yrs ago now ..
the gpu and cpu blocks corroded and blocked .. first time I knew about it spotted a leak from gpu .. stripped it all down and got very angry..
now it's distilled water and kill coil ..just change or top up water once a yr ..
 
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well you got away quiet good imho . I used colours and anti bac .in my last setup few yrs ago now ..
the gpu and cpu blocks corroded and blocked .. first time I knew about it spotted a leak from gpu .. stripped it all down and got very angry..
now it's distilled water and kill coil ..just change or top up water once a yr ..
this is literally the only way to go thats maintenance and hassle free.
 
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It really isn't. I have had Mayhems X1 in a loop for almost 2 years with zero problems and no gunk in any blocks. It only got changed then due to a motherboard and cpu upgrade. One thing about silver kill coils is that you can't use them if you have nickel plated blocks or it will corrode them.
 

Kei

Kei

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this is literally the only way to go thats maintenance and hassle free.
I've been watercooling my systems now for nearly 7 years. In that time, I have replaced my fluid once. I might drain and refill to make a change but I filter what came out back in. I have never had so much as a sniff of corrosion or growth. (I use a small quantity of car anti freeze with DI water) I have a loop with a mix of nickel, copper, brass and stainless steel in it.

I filled my radiators with hot tap water, capped them and gave them a good shake before draining and repeating until nothing but water came back out.
 

Kei

Kei

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All of which have a very similar anodic index, which is why they don't react.
Similar yes, but not the same, so there would be a slow onset of corrosion without inhibitors. Depending on the type, steel and the solder used in radiators have a higher anodic index vs copper, brass and nickel. ~0.5 vs 0.3, sure it’s not the 0.75-0.95 of aluminium but it’s still a difference. Galvanic corrosion will occur with any difference in anodic index, it’s merely the rate that changes based on the size of the difference. Putting some zinc or magnesium in a loop should see the swiftest reaction.

It’s also why silver coils are a ridiculously stupid idea as they are 0.15 in the index vs 0.35 of copper.
 
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This is exactly 6 months
EK Duraclear Soft Tubing
1 EK x360PE rad, 2x HW Labs rads a GTX140 and GTX280, EK Res 140 D5, EK Full nickel CPU/GPU block
5820k/2080ti

Crofuel Premixed Blood Red Coolant from EK

One thing to mention, i have 3 rads and not flushed them before i have put everything together, but, the residue looks like entirely formed from the coolant itself.

The GPU block gunk is very hard to remove, it is like a hard glue...jesus

Cooland became very, very dark red too

This is extreamly bad to me, what do you think ?

Also i must add that this is probably thie first time you guys see a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv with a extra 140 thick rad installed at the back of the case like this, i must admit it works just fine just this gunk ****** me a little...







Consider going EK ZMT tubing. I've used that on 2 builds, 1st is now just over 2 years old, 2nd 1.5 years old, not one has needed any attention yet.

Each setup cleaned rads with normal tap water. Kept filling, shaking rad and draining, until water was free of debris, etc. CPU/GPU blocks just flushed with tap water as well. Then 1x fill/rinse of each item with distilled water. For coolant used ~20% mix of Mayhems XT-1 clear concentrate (EOL now though :( ) with distilled water.
 
Soldato
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Consider going EK ZMT tubing. I've used that on 2 builds, 1st is now just over 2 years old, 2nd 1.5 years old, not one has needed any attention yet.

Each setup cleaned rads with normal tap water. Kept filling, shaking rad and draining, until water was free of debris, etc. CPU/GPU blocks just flushed with tap water as well. Then 1x fill/rinse of each item with distilled water. For coolant used ~20% mix of Mayhems XT-1 clear concentrate (EOL now though :( ) with distilled water.

+1 that’s all I use now, the zmt tube is excellent and I think it looks great as well. I also use the eco X1 stuff as it’s cheap and biodegradable so you can put it down the drain once you’re done with it.

Never had any issues since swapping and my loop and components still look brand new.
 
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