Table Support

Nitefly · 20 Apr 2021 at 00:38

Hi there.

I’ve ordered a massive 240cm x 96cm x 4cm worktop that I play to make a mega table out of.

Ive bought some steel industrial type legs to keep it up at its sides. Between the two legs will be about 2m of unsupported worktop.

It’s dawned on me that the wood may potentially warp of it’s not supported somehow. I really don’t like having table legs in the middle of the table so the obvious solution would be to buy some sort of steel support beam to screw onto the underside of the table, taking up any sag.

Two questions:

Do you think the worktop will warp unsupported, or am I being too cautious?

Why cannot I not find a metal support beam to buy anywhere!! Just a ~1.5m steel beam with drill holes to fix to the table. What it this sort of thing called? I just can’t seem to buy one.... it can’t be that uncommon...!

Cheers!

200sols · 20 Apr 2021 at 07:01

I think it will sag in the middle over time. Thin metal will also warp so something a little thicker than the usual 3mm stuff would be ideal.

https://www.austenknapman.co.uk/mild-steel/mild-steel-flat-bar/

https://www.austenknapman.co.uk/mild-steel/mild-steel-tee-bar/

The T bar might be better if you don't mind how it looks.

Delvis · 20 Apr 2021 at 07:41

I thought ones did these bit without three legs: https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/bekant-underframe-for-table-top-white-90255327/

Can't find anyone though ATM

moon man · 20 Apr 2021 at 07:44

Is there no chance of using a supporting framework we made this with chunky fence post material and an old water tank (well my ex did the making I helped her assemble and paint) so it weighs a lot but it's not 2.4 mtrs maybe 1.8

alexakasloth · 20 Apr 2021 at 07:48

Either flat bar or angle, try B and Q. I don't think they sell them with pre drilled holes so that will need doing.

Macky · 20 Apr 2021 at 08:00

Could run a couple of square hollow sections along the length. Will offer more rigidity than flat bar. Or could run one diagonally from two corners. The key would be to ensure the ends of the support are properly supported.

mid_gen · 20 Apr 2021 at 08:09

Screw a flat beam into the wall in the middle...so it's not just stopping the flex, but actually supporting it.

Martynt74 · 20 Apr 2021 at 08:26

mid_gen said:
Screw a flat beam into the wall in the middle...so it's not just stopping the flex, but actually supporting it.

With him suggesting a table, i'm thinking it's not a regular desk that would sit against a wall. Otherwise i agree that's well worth doing.

mid_gen · 20 Apr 2021 at 08:34

Martynt74 said:
With him suggesting a table, i'm thinking it's not a regular desk that would sit against a wall. Otherwise i agree that's well worth doing.

Ah, probably

In that case I would construct a X shape metal frame between the legs. Only way I can think you'll get the support without it being very visible. May need to get your welding mask on!

Nitefly · 20 Apr 2021 at 08:44

Many thanks for the replies chaps.

Having a bit more of a search this morning I’m thinking that this is ultimately the sort of thing I’m looking for:

https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/800875572/rectangle-table-legs-with-support-bar?ref=hp_rv-4

I’ll have to get them to make their longest frame a little longer (~220cm) - it suggests that they can do customer orders.

I’d still rather use the ‘non’ rectangular legs I’ve ordered though, if I could get away with it (which FYI were these V frame legs in black):

https://www.thehairpinlegcompany.co...ts/box-section-v-frame?variant=31350149644422

Do you think that both sets of legs need to be connected by a beam (as per the above Etsy link)? My immediate thought was ‘no they do not need to be connected’, as the V-frame legs have about 12 screws holding them in place and are surely ‘rock solid’ so as to avoid wobble.

Meanwhile, the Etsy legs as per the above link only seem to have two screws for each set of rectangular legs, which to my mind is less secure for wobble purposes.

I’m still thinking adding a singular bar or box to the underside will be the best resolution.... without needing to connect it to the legs. Thoughts?

tedaC · 20 Apr 2021 at 08:56

I would use something like this , maybe 2 lengths screwed underneath the worktop

https://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/pipe-...TVY4kHPuM39i1QcLL4obh5DGBt9aSSj0aAmGfEALw_wcB

BigBoy · 20 Apr 2021 at 09:37

Nitefly said:
Many thanks for the replies chaps.

Having a bit more of a search this morning I’m thinking that this is ultimately the sort of thing I’m looking for:

https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/800875572/rectangle-table-legs-with-support-bar?ref=hp_rv-4

I’ll have to get them to make their longest frame a little longer (~220cm) - it suggests that they can do customer orders.

I’d still rather use the ‘non’ rectangular legs I’ve ordered though, if I could get away with it (which FYI were these V frame legs in black):

https://www.thehairpinlegcompany.co...ts/box-section-v-frame?variant=31350149644422

Do you think that both sets of legs need to be connected by a beam (as per the above Etsy link)? My immediate thought was ‘no they do not need to be connected’, as the V-frame legs have about 12 screws holding them in place and are surely ‘rock solid’ so as to avoid wobble.

Meanwhile, the Etsy legs as per the above link only seem to have two screws for each set of rectangular legs, which to my mind is less secure for wobble purposes.

I’m still thinking adding a singular bar or box to the underside will be the best resolution.... without needing to connect it to the legs. Thoughts?

No need to have the leg frames fixed together as long as the bar is wedged between the leg frames it will still maintain rigidity.

Thickness of the worktop and material type will make a large difference to the rigidity of the wood too. Plywood Vs chipboard Vs MDF Vs solid wood).

Nitefly · 20 Apr 2021 at 09:43

BigBoy said:
No need to have the leg frames fixed together as long as the bar is wedged between the leg frames it will still maintain rigidity.

Thickness of the worktop and material type will make a large difference to the rigidity of the wood too. Plywood Vs chipboard Vs MDF Vs solid wood).

Thanks mate. Just to clarify, I’m thinking of having the two sets of legs on the end, then having a steel bar underneath (possibly just ~2m fixed to the wood with screws but NOT touching the separate steel legs.

To my mind, the steel legs shouldn’t wobble and the the steel bar should prevent any warping by reinforcing the weak point in the middle of the table. However, if that’s a nonsense let me know

BigBoy · 20 Apr 2021 at 09:46

Nitefly said:
Thanks mate. Just to clarify, I’m thinking of having the two sets of legs on the end, then having a steel bar underneath (possibly just ~2m fixed to the wood with screws but NOT touching the separate steel legs.

To my mind, the steel legs shouldn’t wobble and the the steel bar should prevent any warping by reinforcing the weak point in the middle of the table. However, if that’s a nonsense let me know

Preference would be to have the brace touching the frames. Check out your local iron monger's / metal shop (if your in Bath a company called Avery Knight and bowyer on James St west is the best) for a quarter inch steel bar, they will cut to the length you want. And also be able to give you better advice as the right material to do what you want.

Cadder · 20 Apr 2021 at 14:29

Nitefly said:
Thanks mate. Just to clarify, I’m thinking of having the two sets of legs on the end, then having a steel bar underneath (possibly just ~2m fixed to the wood with screws but NOT touching the separate steel legs.

To my mind, the steel legs shouldn’t wobble and the the steel bar should prevent any warping by reinforcing the weak point in the middle of the table. However, if that’s a nonsense let me know

That should be fine. The bar and the legs are doing two different jobs. Having them welded together so your table is just a worktop attached to a fabricated legs+bar assembly would be an improvement though and help keep the legs perpendicular to the worktop.

Nitefly · 20 Apr 2021 at 15:10

BigBoy said:
Preference would be to have the brace touching the frames. Check out your local iron monger's / metal shop (if your in Bath a company called Avery Knight and bowyer on James St west is the best) for a quarter inch steel bar, they will cut to the length you want. And also be able to give you better advice as the right material to do what you want.

Cadder said:
That should be fine. The bar and the legs are doing two different jobs. Having them welded together so your table is just a worktop attached to a fabricated legs+bar assembly would be an improvement though and help keep the legs perpendicular to the worktop.

Thanks both - I’m going to give an iron monger a call and see what they recommend

Many thanks!!

jpaul · 20 Apr 2021 at 15:23

BigBoy said:
Preference would be to have the brace touching the frames. Check out your local iron monger's

what he says ,
but I'd email the hairpin folks and find out of they think a 2.4m top would need horizontal bracing a 18" say down from the top, to avoid sway.

the bolted etsy deal, although less elegant would be a much stronger for me, and you won't have a problem with, however many screws you would need into underside, with the hairpins.

jpaul · 21 Apr 2021 at 08:32

another option £120+carriage .. pity the height adjustable ones are $$$
you get a brace plus, its cantilever so legs don't get in the way

800x2000mm Cantilever Desk Frame

sovietspybob · 21 Apr 2021 at 09:54

I'd just buy a length or 2 or mild steel angle iron and drill and screw it in to the underside, it would provide more than enough support i'd think and be very cheap to do.

I tend to buy angle in 6m lengths but you can buy them in any length you like, even B&Q sell it but its quite expensive there.

Cadder · 21 Apr 2021 at 11:18

I was surprised how close a metals stockist was to me, for walk-ins at least. If you're buying mild steel - box section or angle, you want the cleanest you can find as you'll need to paint/coat it unless you like rust. Otherwise it's stainless, which carries a premium.

See if there's a local fabricator to you. A small family-run outfit should be easy enough to approach and they might have some offcuts you can have for relatively cheap. I'd imagine for a few quid they'd clean it down ready to paint. Like post above (#19) says, angle can be screwed to worktop from below with wood screws. Box section would typically be fixed from above through the worktop with self-tapping screws.

@Nitefly For the overall expense of buying those legs and getting a mid-beam, you could ask a local fabricators to make you one. If you need a drawing done, PM me all the dimensions and some photos/images and I'll knock you up one on my break. Then you just ask the fabricators for a quote to make the whole thing.