Home networking kit sanity check

[Harnser]

Before I order, can someone check if there's better parts available or I've missed anything?

100m Cat6 UTP LSOH Solid Core Cable:
https://www.cablemonkey.co.uk/cat6-cable/13839-ccs-cat6-utp-cable.html

Patch panel:
https://www.cablemonkey.co.uk/patch-panel-frames/9504-24-way-unloaded-utp-keystone-patch-panel.html

16x UTP Tool-less keystone modules for patch panel:
https://www.cablemonkey.co.uk/cat6-modules-outlets/9503-cat6-utp-tool-less-keystone-module.html

Faceplates for 2x sockets:
https://www.cablemonkey.co.uk/cat6-...-faceplates.html#/619-no_of_outlets-2_outlets which is remarkably expensive or https://www.cablemonkey.co.uk/cat6-modules-outlets/41869-cat6-utp-rj45-modules-with-faceplate.html which is much cheaper?

Plus backboxes as most are going on brick walls, and I'm surface mounting for now:
https://www.cablemonkey.co.uk/cat5e...gang-office-style-surface-mount-back-box.html

CCS 4000 series in particular locations:
https://www.cablemonkey.co.uk/cat6-modules-outlets/13105-cat6-ccs-4000-series-vertical-outlets.html

Assorted patch leads for patch panel to switch:
https://www.cablemonkey.co.uk/rj45-network-cables/12-cat6-rj45-patch-cables.html

Cable tester - lots of expensive stuff, this was the cheapest I could find
https://www.cablemonkey.co.uk/cat5e-accessories/9553-ccs-cable-continuity-tester-5056045700448.html

Switch: 8-port with PoE (needed for Unifi UAP-AC-LR which "Now supports 24V & 802.3af/A" according to the sticker on the box). I'll be installing 2x cables to sockets but only using 1 so can get away with a smaller switch. Thinking TP-Link TL-SG1008P V4 or Netgear GS308P?

Mounting: It's a switch plus a patch panel. I'll make something from timber.
If I want to save time, https://www.cablemonkey.co.uk/brackets-frames/10511-200mm-deep-wall-mounted-19-frame.html but need a bracket to mount the switch

Tools: I bought this 12 in 1 kit last year. Hoping it does the job:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07B1YFHQW

I've concluded in summer the loft is too hot for the switch as it'll exceed the 40℃ operating temperature, so all 16+ cables (which arrive in the loft via cavities, holes in ceiling etc) will have to descend through the ceiling into a cupboard where I'll put the patch panel and switch. What's the best way to do this and keep an airtight seal around the cables?

 

[andy_mk3]

I've concluded in summer the loft is too hot for the switch as it'll exceed the 40℃ operating temperature

I've had a TP-Link PoE switch in my loft for a few years now and it's never been bothered by the heat. Should be fine to be honest.

 

[WJA96]

Cable tester - lots of expensive stuff, this was the cheapest I could find
https://www.cablemonkey.co.uk/cat5e-accessories/9553-ccs-cable-continuity-tester-5056045700448.html

Tools: I bought this 12 in 1 kit last year. Hoping it does the job:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07B1YFHQW

There is already a cable tester in the kit. Assuming it still works, you don't need another one.

I've concluded in summer the loft is too hot for the switch as it'll exceed the 40℃ operating temperature, so all 16+ cables (which arrive in the loft via cavities, holes in ceiling etc) will have to descend through the ceiling into a cupboard where I'll put the patch panel and switch. What's the best way to do this and keep an airtight seal around the cables?

You won't be able to keep an airtight seal around the cables. The best you can do would be to fill any gaps with expanding foam. Personally, I'd mount the patch panel in the loft, with the switch. There are plenty of users on here with switch, access points, even whole racks in the loft.

 

[Nutty_Death]

I have everything terminating in my loft, with switch, router and servers up there. Works fine for me.

Couldn't see any obvious issues or missing parts in your setup. Only thing I'd say to avoid is keystones for the wall sockets if you're considering it as your back box has to be massive and it can be a squeeze getting the faceplate on.

 

[WJA96]

Only thing I'd say to avoid is keystones for the wall sockets if you're considering it as your back box has to be massive and it can be a squeeze getting the faceplate on.

I don’t know what keystones you’re using but we use various types and none of them go more than a couple of mm into back box. If you’re thinking of pass-through RJ45 jacks installed in faceplates then yes, you’ll need a 35mm+ deep back box. I don’t think that’s the plan here as no RJ45 jacks are listed anywhere.

 

[danielpugh]

That looks good to me - the keystone modules are great and save a look it of time/faff.

Not sure if you already have the APs but the newer wifi6 models are out. I'd skip the LR as no benefit at all and get the lite version.

I used a ubiquity 8 port poe - it ran very hot. I switched to a pro 16 port which rack mounts. Only really because it matches the router and aps. They are (imo) ok, but not great value. The "pro" 16 port I has higher cost, useless screen, only 8 Poe ports, needs ubiquity router for vlans, and only 1 year warranty compared to lifetime for most business switches at the same price.
Tplink generally basic but relatively reliable. Netgear typically ok but I have found some unreliable models. HP and Cisco often good value secondhand (main downside usually noisy fan), and likely overkill.

 

[Harnser]

Thanks everyone, ordered and looking forward to installing. I'll put the switch in the loft as it's significantly easier to cable to/from there.

 

[Harnser]

Let me check I've got this right:

For tool-less keystones I need to remove the sheath from ~40mm cable but I don't need to strip the wires?

And for the CCS 4000 series I need to remove the sheath, strip the wires, and then use my own punchdown to get them in?

 

[WJA96]

No, you never strip the inner cores. The outer sheath on each strand is punctured and pressed up against the contact in all these systems.

Take off the outer sheath, cut away the inner sheath if it’s there, maybe the pull cord and centre spline if it’s there. But don’t strip the inner conductors.

 

[Harnser]

Thanks @WJA96!