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PowerColor 6700XT Fighter Teardown

Soldato
Joined
12 Sep 2003
Posts
10,104
Location
Newcastle, UK
How do. After reading about the PowerColor 6700XT that still had the protective film applied to the thermal pads I fancied opening up my 6700XT Fighter. I wanted to generally just see what kind of job PowerColor did of applying pads and paste to my GPU, but also, I wanted to grab some proper measurements so that I can try replacing the pads with something better.

Hopefully others with the 6700XT Fighter find this information useful.

How To

So the card looked OK from the outside. Safe to say I don't think I'd get any surprises.

1-Outside-showing-pads.jpg


2-Outside-showing-pads.jpg


It was a pretty straight forward process. Firstly, remove the x4 small silver screws on the outside of the face plate. I found that a PH1 x 75mm screwdriver was fine for all the screws. There are x2 small black screws that then need taking out of the PCB. You might be able to wiggle a screwdriver in, but I tackled these later on, once the heatsink was removed.

5-Remove-Faceplate-screws.jpg


Next, I unclipped the fan header. Just a set of needle nose pliers and gentle wiggling is all that is needed. I've seen some people struggle with these but mine didn't put up much of a fight. Once unclipped, I then took the x3 small silver screws out of each fan. Just move the blades and you'll see them.

6-Remove-Fan-screws.jpg


Finally, there are x4 small black screws going into the side of the heatsink (one at each corner of the heatsink). These need to come out and the whole fan shroud lifts away.

7-Remove-Shroud-screws-and-Power.jpg


8-Shroud-Fans-Removed.jpg


The Heatsink is next. Just x8 sprung screws on the reverse of the GPU. Take time to loosen each bit by bit. Never just undo one screw fully. Same idea for when putting the GPU back together. The x4 central sprun screws are a different design to the outer ones, so don't mix them up. The outer sprung screws are for clamping across the VRMs. The inner x4 sprung screws are for clamping around the GPU.

9-Remove-Heatsink-screws.jpg


Once all out I found standing the GPU on its bum and then prying apart at the top with the GPU stood vertically was easier than trying to wiggle the heatsink off side to side. Long ways gives a bit more leverage. Didn't take much force and it popped off without issue.

10-Pull-aprt.jpg


The backplate is then removed with x9 screws on the PCB.

Findings

As you can see, thankfully no mistakes here during assembly. However, I don't think it is the best. Some of the pads don't fully cover the memory modules. There, in my opinion, is far too much paste on the GPU meaning most has spilled over on the chip itself. On the bottom of the heatsink, it's all mounted up on the outer edges.

11-Heasink.jpg


12-PCB.jpg


Measurements for new Thermal Pads

For the VRM area, the right hand set are slightly longer due to more chips than the left hand side. I measured that I'd need 52mm (l) x 7mm (w) for the right side and 50mm (l) x 7mm (w) for the left side. The current thermal pads appear to be 1mm in height.

15-VRM-pad-measuring.jpg


16-VRM-pad-height.jpg


For the Memory area, each chip (x6 in total) seems to be 12mm x 14mm (or 14mm x 12mm depending on orientation on the PCB). I measured the total height at just under 2mm, so I'm going to assume the chip is 1mm and the thermal pad is 1mm.

13-Memory-chips-and-pad-measuring.jpg


14-Memory-chips-and-pad-height.jpg


For the rear, I'd like to try what others have done and apply pads here. This isn't a reference design but the back plate does appear to be metal and so any contact would, in theory, utilise the back plate as another heatspreader. The Memory areas look to measure 50mm x 14mm (or 14mm x 50mm depending on orientation on the PCB) that is across the 3 modules. So would need two lots at that size. The VRM area, if we inc. the items stamped "R15" as well is 52mm (l) x 17mm (w) for the right side and 50mm (l) x 17mm (w) for the left side.

The gap between the PCB and the backplate is quite large due to standoffs being used. I measured this at just under 3mm. So I think I might have to layer a 0.5mm pad with a 3mm pad here. I think opting for a 3mm pad is not going to make contact. The extra 0.5mm should ensure the PCB touches the back plate.

3-Outside-Backplate-Gap.jpg


GPU

I cleaned off the mess and used the spread method instead for the new paste. I used some Noctua NT-H1 paste. Back in Windows, idle, a few apps open and some browser tabs open I'm seeing GPU and Junction temps at ~30ºC according to AMD software.

17-GPU-die-clean.jpg


18-Heatsink-clean.jpg


19-GPU-paste-applied.jpg


20-GPU-reassembled.jpg


6700-XT-Idle-Noctua-NT-H1.jpg


Next Steps

Now I know the measurements I need to order up some new thermal pads. I may even get some newer thermal paste. I just applied the NT-H1 so that I could pop my GPU back in the rig and use it.

I'm thinking of getting the Gelid GP-Extreme pads. Anyone have any experience with them? They seem to not be too expensive and have a higher 12W/mK thermal conductivity.

Does any have any recommendations on what software I can use to do a before / after for temperatures? What do people use and where should I be looking?

Thanks for reading. :)
 
Last edited:
Man of Honour
Joined
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Tosche Station
Great post. I don't have one of these but I enjoy the straightforward yet informative way you structured this and the attention to detail in the pictures such as highlighting screws and including the measurements as you take them is appreciated.
 
Soldato
OP
Joined
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Posts
10,104
Location
Newcastle, UK
Thanks @LtMatt and @Th0nt. :) I measured out the dimensions just now onto the pad sizes, to work out how many I need. I've decided to go with Gelid GP Ultimate thermal pads. These have a thermal conductivity of 15W/mK! They also come larger sized compared to the Gelid GP Extreme pads (90x50mm vs 80x40mm) and 2pcs per pack.

I've also gone with a slightly thicker choice. So where I measured 1mm for the front of the PCB, I've gone with 1.5mm. As they compress down I want to play it a bit safe. I'm worried that 1mm was actually the compressed size and the original pads started life slightly thicker. 0.5mm shouldn't impact things too much.

For the rear PCB gap, instead of 3.5mm I went with 4.0mm (2x 2.0mm pads). Again, just worried that 0.5mm tolerance was not enough, especially with the standoff mounting stopping any possible chance of further compression if I wanted it. 4.0mm should mean 1mm of compression.

On back order, but should arrive by 2nd week of September. :)
 
Soldato
OP
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Will be interesting to see the after difference in taming the heat. They clearly didn't put in a lot of effort beyond the core and surrounding cooling and neglect the rear (large gap and backplate).

Yeah - I'm quite looking forward to it. :) It does feel like more could be done, especially the prices people pay. I guess it is all down to profit margins! I'm going to try and fire up some games over the next few days and get some temp readings, but unsure what application to use. I might see what HWiNFO is like.
 
Soldato
OP
Joined
12 Sep 2003
Posts
10,104
Location
Newcastle, UK
I've tweaked the AMD fan profile to go up to 80% (curve shown below). I hadn't realised this was at 70% maximum speed by default.

Fan-Profile.jpg


A quick 20 minutes of Days Gone. I have just replaced the GPU paste so will take a little time to settle but this is an indication of what we have at the moment. Hopefully, after doing the thermal pads, that middle GPU Memory Junction Temperature value will see a healthy drop. :)

Quite pleased with the NT-H1 thermal paste I put on the GPU. Sub 70ºC average GPU and 75ºC average hot spot. I think that is an acceptable temperature when gaming. I am keen to perhaps replace this when I do the thermal pads with something newer - perhaps the Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut... :D

AMD-GPU-Gaming.jpg


HWi-NFO-GPU-Gaming.jpg
 
Last edited:
Associate
Joined
7 Nov 2017
Posts
1,901
I never got one. Too hasty! :( But I think I will replace the NT-H1 with something else, like the Kryonaut, so at least we should see something tangible when I next crack it open to do the pads. :)

wouldn't bother changing the pads. Kryonaut isn't some magical paste. Loads of people have actually had worse temps using it (I was 5C worse off)
 
Soldato
Joined
10 Dec 2004
Posts
8,243
Location
Oxfordshire
I never got one. Too hasty! :( But I think I will replace the NT-H1 with something else, like the Kryonaut, so at least we should see something tangible when I next crack it open to do the pads. :)

Fighter owner here

I see around 70-75 degrees normally under full load. So it's not a bad drop at all there!

I am too much of a chicken to take it apart inside warranty, but looks like a good potential job for the future :)

I have been hugely impressed with how the card deals with temps and it's noise anyway for what would be classified as not a premium cooling solution.
 
Last edited:
Soldato
OP
Joined
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Posts
10,104
Location
Newcastle, UK
Thanks all. :)

I didn't go with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut in the end @Ross Thomson. I read some others saying they were not happy with it, so I went and read some further reviews and comparisons last night and I've bought some Alpenföhn Permafrost 2 which has a thermal conductivity of 13.4 W / mK and is the usual non-conductive, etc. And shows an improvement vs NT-H1 and the newer NT-H2. So that will replace the NT-H1 that is on temporarily at the moment.

I've pulled together some stats from a few game runs and a quick furmark stress test. I've put them into nice graphical format. I'll hold off posting them for now, I'll wait till I've repeated the testing and then post all my findings at once so it is easier to read.

Watch this space.
 
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