S550 Mustang Audio Build

[Howling]

So I had the bright idea of.... initially... replacing the front speakers because one had blown. So I figured "may as well just upgrade them while I'm at it"..... This turned into sound damping, upgrading every speaker, amp, and sub...... I have a problem Learned a lot during the process though... namely, car audio is expensive - and Ford are actual ******** for integrating data signals into every single thing, even when it in NO POSSIBLE WAY needs it.... Will stick a parts list at the bottom for anyone who makes it that far.

1. Take basic ass Mustang

2. Take some basic upgrade parts (Front Component speakers and sound deadening/damping)

3. Strip doors and put in Deadening material on external panels (outer skin of the doors) and replace speakers

I overshot the foam insulation on this one... and working with large pieces to try and cut holes out the middle was a real pain in the ass... so the next door I used smaller pieces

4. Use the extra deadening material in high value areas: Spare wheel well, Boot lid, Rear quarter panels (wheel arches especially)

5. New parcel shelf speakers in

6. Amp in, mounted on the rear seat so it's easy to work on (you'll see)

7. Subwoofer in and my tools and **** neatly stored (I don't have a garage)

8. Bonus Subwoofer Volume knob installed

Parts list:
Amp: Kenwood X802-5
Sub: JL Audio 10W3V3-4 (In custom 20L sealed enclosure)
Front Speakers: JL Audio C1-650 Components
Rear Speakers: JL Audio C1-650X Coaxials

Centre speaker and 3.5" OEMs are disconnected. They were just blasting low quality audio and would just add interference to the C1s. The OEM shaker sub is also disconnected, I just left it in place as it leaves a carpet-less hole in the boot otherwise

If you're interested, the Butyl deadening was Dodo Deadn Hex (x30) and the 10mm closed-cell foam was Lifemaison Deadener Mat 50cmx200cm Roll (x2)

 

[Rilot]

Very nice job.
I've got the B&O system in mine and I was very disappointed with the audio quality when I got it. All muddy bass and no control.
I've since swapped the stock paper-cone sub out with a Pioneer item that fits in the same place. That fixed the bass issue as it now has control and doesn't boom. I then swapped the centre speaker out with a Dayton Audio item and that fixed the crashy mids.
It's not going to be a patch on a proper system like yours but to my ears it's good enough now. The only think I need to do is Dynamat the door like you've done as there are a few rattles in there when certain bass frequencies resonate.

 

[Diddums]

Very nice, but the most important question is what music you listen to?

No point having all that fancy stuff if you listen to crap music like me

 

[Howling]

Very nice job.
I've got the B&O system in mine and I was very disappointed with the audio quality when I got it. All muddy bass and no control.
I've since swapped the stock paper-cone sub out with a Pioneer item that fits in the same place. That fixed the bass issue as it now has control and doesn't boom. I then swapped the centre speaker out with a Dayton Audio item and that fixed the crashy mids.
It's not going to be a patch on a proper system like yours but to my ears it's good enough now. The only think I need to do is Dynamat the door like you've done as there are a few rattles in there when certain bass frequencies resonate.

Yeah, unfortunately Ford skimped out on quality and went with quantity of speakers in the Shaker and B&O systems -- luckily for you though, as you found out, the B&O has a 10" sub and it's pretty simple to get an upgraded unit. It's doable with the Shaker sub but you're limited to shallow 8" subs, didn't feel like that'd do the trick for me..
I'd definitely recommend damping the doors - it made a reasonably noticeable difference and in all honesty it didn't take all that long to do. I think door 2 took 1hr and that includes changing the speaker out. Door 1 took quite a bit longer but that was me figuring out how it all came apart and how to get the matting on -- and while you're at it you may as well change the front speakers out for a half decent set, you're looking under £150 really, and it'll make a huge difference. The rears are just "ambient" sound, the fronts are what really drive your set up and while the OEM amp will underfeed them you'll still see a huge benefit, but I guess that's only if your current setup is bothering you or you have a spare £200 to throw at speakers and damping.

Very nice, but the most important question is what music you listen to?

No point having all that fancy stuff if you listen to crap music like me

Music? Pure podcasts bro

Haha, in all seriousness though - I listen to a lot of rock and rock-adjacent genres, so those kick-you-in-the-chest lows help for the drums. Everyone likes being kicked in the chest, right?

 

[Diddums]

Everyone likes being kicked in the chest, right?

Well, the music I listen to tends to get quite a lot from a decent sound system, hence why I asked

 

[jpaul]

Did you have to run many new speaker cables back to front needing to lift carpet/remove-seats, or could you utilise existing ducts.
any particular set of trim tools you recommend ? (I've used wooden kitchen spatulas a couple of times for smaller jobs door locks/wind mechanism - but need to get something stronger)

I guess you researched sound deadening strategy and there is no easy way to create a template/pattern for whole door with a big dodo sheet, cutting slots.


Agree with the strategy of having 4+1 amp/channels - stereo imaging gets shot with a centre front in particular, why do they try and create surround sound.

 

[Howling]

Did you have to run many new speaker cables back to front needing to lift carpet/remove-seats, or could you utilise existing ducts.
any particular set of trim tools you recommend ? (I've used wooden kitchen spatulas a couple of times for smaller jobs door locks/wind mechanism - but need to get something stronger)

Not too many. I tapped the audio from the connector going into the amp - used an RCA cable and snipped one end off for that. Then there's a speaker cable running from the boot back towards the amp and that pumps into both (I've split it) the front door 6.5s and then a run .... Infact it's easier if I just doodle a sketch in paint xD

Bit basic but that's essentially all the cable runs. I've used an RCA (blue) and then 2 speaker cables (green) to the front that go to the front 6.5" woofers. There's also another splice on the end of the green that goes to the tweeters (again, fresh speaker wire but only run from the footwell into each A-pillar).

I guess you researched sound deadening strategy and there is no easy way to create a template/pattern for whole door with a big dodo sheet, cutting slots.

Depends on the materials you use. I used about the thickest foam you can get away with behind the door panels and it's horrible to do those slots - some of the thinner deadening material you could definitely do it though (and audio shops tend to do it that way, looks a lot nicer but functionally it's not really any better). You can't use a big sheet on the outer-skin though as you only have those small cutouts to get pieces through.

Agree with the strategy of having 4+1 amp/channels - stereo imaging gets shot with a centre front in particular, why do they try and create surround sound.

Ford just went "Premium sound system? Let's just add more cheap speakers!" Disappointing tbh.

Well, the music I listen to tends to get quite a lot from a decent sound system, hence why I asked

Not my cuppa, but ya - that definitely sounds infinitely better when you have a capable system xD

 

[jpaul]

Bit basic but that's essentially all the cable runs. I've used an RCA (blue) and then 2 speaker cables (green) to the front that go to the front 6.5" woofers. There's also another splice on the end of the green that goes to the tweeters (again, fresh speaker wire but only run from the footwell into each A-pillar).

ok so amp had better quality rca output directly from HU, versus taking speaker outputs, and EQ&volume is in the head unit;

could also splice an external dac running on a phone into RCA inputs. (on previous car had put an inline 3.5mm plug/socket on rca's to be able to plug in phone)

 

[Loxa]

So I had the bright idea of.... initially... replacing the front speakers because one had blown. So I figured "may as well just upgrade them while I'm at it"..... This turned into sound damping, upgrading every speaker, amp, and sub...... I have a problem Learned a lot during the process though... namely, car audio is expensive - and Ford are actual ******** for integrating data signals into every single thing, even when it in NO POSSIBLE WAY needs it.... Will stick a parts list at the bottom for anyone who makes it that far.

1. Take basic ass Mustang

Very very nice

 

[Richie]

What are those black brackets holding things back? How do they work (Velcro?) and are they any good?

 

[Howling]

What are those black brackets holding things back? How do they work (Velcro?) and are they any good?

Boot anchor things: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0FL2C79R6
And yeah, they're just velcro. They work surprisingly well tbh. I've got velcro on the bottom of the sub too which keeps it in place, I've got anchors infront and behind it just as an extra measure 'just in case'. I've never had anything slide around or move them so far - well worth the money imho. You can get more expensive ones that are bigger/more secure or whatever, but I've not needed more than this.

 

[Howling]

And the final piece of the puzzle... a DSP. (Audison Bit Ten).

This, obviously, wasn't as simple as it should have been -- because none of my build has been...... So it didn't like the Low-Level (pre-amp) feed because it was too low voltage to deal with. So I had to give it high-level (as in, after the OEM Shaker amp had done horrible horrible things to the signal)... which meant more wire taps and finding enough of an input signal to construct a full-range signal as the Shaker amp splits it to go to specific speakers with horrible EQ and High/Low pass filters on them. Ended up using the Front 6.5" woofer and A-pillar tweeter signals - between them they have the full range, just forces the DSP to do some work to get it clean.

Anyway - build finally finished.

Signal path (for those who care) -- OEM head unit => OEM Shaker Amp => Bit Ten DSP => Kenwood X802-5 Amp => Speakers

 

[hornetstinger]

If you have ability to do so, could be worth using room correction, or in this case cab correction. ICE isn't my thing but I have used it on wiim streamers and used REW to measure and correct response.

Also I'd probably use a sealed box sub in a car (if I had a car)

 

[sigma]

And the final piece of the puzzle... a DSP. (Audison Bit Ten).

This, obviously, wasn't as simple as it should have been -- because none of my build has been...... So it didn't like the Low-Level (pre-amp) feed because it was too low voltage to deal with. So I had to give it high-level (as in, after the OEM Shaker amp had done horrible horrible things to the signal)... which meant more wire taps and finding enough of an input signal to construct a full-range signal as the Shaker amp splits it to go to specific speakers with horrible EQ and High/Low pass filters on them. Ended up using the Front 6.5" woofer and A-pillar tweeter signals - between them they have the full range, just forces the DSP to do some work to get it clean.

Anyway - build finally finished.

Signal path (for those who care) -- OEM head unit => OEM Shaker Amp => Bit Ten DSP => Kenwood X802-5 Amp => Speakers

Is that needed because you need to use the original OEM head unit?

Nice work btw. Door cards themselves can be fiddly as anything.

 

[Howling]

If you have ability to do so, could be worth using room correction, or in this case cab correction. ICE isn't my thing but I have used it on wiim streamers and used REW to measure and correct response.

Also I'd probably use a sealed box sub in a car (if I had a car)

Unfortunately I don't have an appropriate mic to calibrate it 'properly' like that... I've just had to rely on my OEM ears The cheapest way to get a mic for this is >£100 (the Dayton UMM-6 or miniDSP UMIK-1). I've already spent near £2k on what was originally meant to be 'replace the door speakers' xD
My sub is in a sealed box - the box is 20L minus however much the sub (JL 10W3V3) displaces, so it's probably fairly close to the 17.7L optimal volume - close enough that I doubt the difference between mine and 'perfect' is even measurable ^_^

Is that needed because you need to use the original OEM head unit?

Nice work btw. Door cards themselves can be fiddly as anything.

It's only really 'needed' because I'm a picky motherf....... and wanted to have full control of my EQ to match my music tastes. There's also a slight hiss between 2khz and 4khz that I was hoping the DSP would swallow - unfortunately, even after moving from the low-level to high-level tap and the DSP doing its automatic corrections the hiss is still present. I've managed to mostly hide it with a small attenuation on those frequencies - it's only really noticeable between tracks and if you're listening for it, but I've heard it so now I can't not-hear it

And thanks - It's taken a LOT longer and more money than I intended, but the end result is also better than I originally intended and I've learned such a large amount about car audio (and very specifically about the mustang). So the 4-8 hour job ended up taking probably closer to 60 hours and the £150 speaker upgrade cost ~£2000.... and as frustrating and stressful as its been - I'm happy with the end result (not sure it's £2k value if I compare to my home set up, but I guess there's a premium on car audio) and I have the new found bank of knowledge and best working practices (or rather, how definitely NOT to do things )

In summer I might tip my hat towards making a custom sub box to fit where the original 8" shaker is currently occupying (the shaker sub is disconnected, it's just filling a hole in the boot's carpet right now)... But I also might not I'm actually wanting to change the mustang out in the next few years for the Porsche Cayman GTS 4.0 so maybe I should stop tinkering...