Upgrading from LG g2 to G5 worth the upgrade?

kona786 said:
I went from a C9 to. G4/M4. The only real thing that stood out was the size increase 55 to 65...and anti reflective coating. Yes it's brighter but the C9 was already bright enough for me.

Yes the PQ and processing is better but not super noticeably.
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I don't have my C9 at high contrast /oled levels either, if I set it to default HDR it is stupidly high output. I don't know who watches it that bright, maybe have to wear sunglesses or a welding mask?
 
hornetstinger said:
I understand how it works

It's simply too high light output at 100/100 it actually hurts eyes.

Also if you want to play this game Do you have a seperates atmos/dts x audio system as the director intended? Haha
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Yes I have an Atmos system, don’t see what that has to do with someone that doesn’t understand high dynamic range
 
hornetstinger said:
Do you listen at reference levels? If you're being pedantic about exact HDR light levels, then you should be listening at 00dB, which is typically ear splitting loud.
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I will take your word for it sweetheart, you always seem to be hanging around here giving people “advice” they don’t ask for or need.
 
CorrectHorseBattery said:
I say this kindly, can you please think about the manner in which you communicate.
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No.

As for HDR settings this is correct for g5

Picture Mode: FILMMAKER MODE
OLED Pixel Brightness: 100 (Max)
Contrast: 100 (Max)
Auto Dynamic Contrast: Off
Dynamic Tone Mapping: Off
Expression Enhancer: Off
Color Temperature: Warm 40
Color Space: Auto
Peak Brightness: High
Sharpness: 0

Probably result in eye piercing brightness making me squint or putting in sunglasses. I'd play around with oled pixel brightness, contrast and peak brightness.
 
hornetstinger said:
No.

As for HDR settings this is correct for g5

Picture Mode: FILMMAKER MODE
OLED Pixel Brightness: 100 (Max)
Contrast: 100 (Max)
Auto Dynamic Contrast: Off
Dynamic Tone Mapping: Off
Expression Enhancer: Off
Color Temperature: Warm 40
Color Space: Auto
Peak Brightness: High
Sharpness: 0

Probably result in eye piercing brightness making me squint or putting in sunglasses. I'd play around with oled pixel brightness, contrast and peak brightness.
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I think you’d get a much better response from people if you tried taking that chip off your shoulder. Please do try, I’m sure you aren’t a bad guy but I keep seeing you do this.
 
hornetstinger said:
No.

As for HDR settings this is correct for g5

Picture Mode: FILMMAKER MODE
OLED Pixel Brightness: 100 (Max)
Contrast: 100 (Max)
Auto Dynamic Contrast: Off
Dynamic Tone Mapping: Off
Expression Enhancer: Off
Color Temperature: Warm 40
Color Space: Auto
Peak Brightness: High
Sharpness: 0

Probably result in eye piercing brightness making me squint or putting in sunglasses. I'd play around with oled pixel brightness, contrast and peak brightness.
Click to expand...
Dpeneding on the content/movie I almost always adjust my brightness and sometimes contrast. Movies are all mastered at different brightness and for me there's always room for adjustment.

... also some movies are super grainy. Lowering the brightness makes it less so.
 
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kona786 said:
Dpeneding on the content/movie I almost always adjust my brightness and sometimes contrast. Movies are all mastered at different brightness and for me there's always room for adjustment.

... also some movies are super grainy. Lowering the brightness makes it less so.
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You should try to have 2 settings, 1 for normal programs and movies which are in SDR, which should be around the 100nit mark and then your HDR setting which outputs the supplied metadata from the HDR program/movie your watching(this setting generally should be 100oled light and 100 contrast as the tv adjusts on the fly) , this is why a calibration helps a lot.
 
the wopster said:
You should try to have 2 settings, 1 for normal programs and movies which are in SDR, which should be around the 100nit mark and then your HDR setting which outputs the supplied metadata from the HDR program/movie your watching(this setting generally should be 100oled light and 100 contrast as the tv adjusts on the fly) , this is why a calibration helps a lot.
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I have many presets. At the end of the day it's all preferance. Sometimes I like a brighter image, sometimes my eye feels the strain and I have to lower it...And I always watch movies in total darkness.
 
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It is ‘worth’ the upgrade? Without owning either TV, no, because I really don’t think a TV is worth swapping out every 3 years if you bought a decent model in the first place. I’d put my money towards something else.

The only position where it would be worth it is that you have so much money that it’s a meaningless expense… to the point that you wouldn’t need to ask the question in the first place :p

I’m currently sitting on an LG CX. I was toying with the idea of getting a G5 but there’s a few other things I ought to prioritise as really the CX is ‘fine’. But that’s the sort of upgrade where I’m thinking OK I might get a lot out of it.
 
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the wopster said:
You should try to have 2 settings, 1 for normal programs and movies which are in SDR, which should be around the 100nit mark and then your HDR setting which outputs the supplied metadata from the HDR program/movie your watching(this setting generally should be 100oled light and 100 contrast as the tv adjusts on the fly) , this is why a calibration helps a lot.
Click to expand...

100 OLED/contrast applies to Dolby Vision. LG doesn't support HDR10+
 
the wopster said:
You should try to have 2 settings, 1 for normal programs and movies which are in SDR, which should be around the 100nit mark and then your HDR setting which outputs the supplied metadata from the HDR program/movie your watching(this setting generally should be 100oled light and 100 contrast as the tv adjusts on the fly) , this is why a calibration helps a lot.
Click to expand...

SDR and HDR (and the various types it supports) have their own preset. I can't remember my settings but once I'm happy with adjustment I have used the copy settings to each input feature to save replicating them. For HDR I reduce default settings to make it look like SDR and maybe + 20% higher output. If I leave everything at default (apart from disable NR, motion, AI etc) 100/100 for contrast and OLED it's just too bright, I don't know anyone could watch that- perhaps in a bright room, but in a dimmed or unlit room (bias light on mine) it's unbearable.

In Alien HDR, the landing sequence I compared to to my standard 1080p, the lights do appear with more contrast, and I suppose more accurate real life, but because I've reduced it, it's not so bad you have to look away due to the light output.

If new gen OLED are several factors higher light output, I can't see how people watch them (or LED as they are bright as well)

I would have thought TV's would do some self calibration, they take in ambient light levels then determine correct HDR values, there is

Contrast
OLED backlight
Peak Brightness
Dynamic Tone Mapping (in your source and TV as well)

Which all effect the light output
 
hornetstinger said:
SDR and HDR (and the various types it supports) have their own preset. I can't remember my settings but once I'm happy with adjustment I have used the copy settings to each input feature to save replicating them. For HDR I reduce default settings to make it look like SDR and maybe + 20% higher output. If I leave everything at default (apart from disable NR, motion, AI etc) 100/100 for contrast and OLED it's just too bright, I don't know anyone could watch that- perhaps in a bright room, but in a dimmed or unlit room (bias light on mine) it's unbearable.

In Alien HDR, the landing sequence I compared to to my standard 1080p, the lights do appear with more contrast, and I suppose more accurate real life, but because I've reduced it, it's not so bad you have to look away due to the light output.

If new gen OLED are several factors higher light output, I can't see how people watch them (or LED as they are bright as well)

I would have thought TV's would do some self calibration, they take in ambient light levels then determine correct HDR values, there is

Contrast
OLED backlight
Peak Brightness
Dynamic Tone Mapping (in your source and TV as well)

Which all effect the light output
Click to expand...

LG TVs do have an ambient light sensor and you can set it to change brightness on ambient light but it doesn't work well
 
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