Post Your Home Cine & HiFi Kit...

kitfit1 said:
The second Rel S812 arrived yesterday (earlier then i thought it would). The Isoaustics Bordeaux feet for it won't arrive until Monday though.
I would say things now sound totally "complete", in other words nothing is missing sound wise. I will have to find a permanent solution to powering the left sub though, it can't stay as it is in the pic.

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How are you time aligning the two subs together then time aligning them with the speakers? EQ'ing them as a pair? Getting two subs working is a lot harder because if one is out of alignment it'll boost and cancel the other one at various frequencies. You cannot just place them set them at 0 phase, and hope it's optimal. Mine was terrible response if I left it at that.

I've had to use different delays on all three subs.

Went from a F3 low end 30hz peaky response with massive peaks and very steep drop off before the 120hz point (terrible considering huge 15" subs) , subs cancelling the others out, not aligned with mains, to much flatter and lower response down to 10hz and a flatter response 120hz

If using high level you can adjust phase on both to get them paired up, then adjust the pair to blend in with the mains unfortunately have no way to EQ them.

Have a play with REW room sim and see what happens when you adjust the delay on one to overall response.

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kitfit1 said:
I really do wish that you would just FO and stop answering questions that were never asked, along with stop giving solutions to problems that don't exist in the first place.
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The problem does exist, unfortuantly some people just plonk the expensive items down and don't attempt to optimise. Perhaps you take some advice with plopped down two expensive subs and hope for the best.

I was grateful I took some time and got someone with a lot more experience than me to get them tweaked.
 
Have a look here, that's with one sub, as he adjusts controls it affects the overall response. Now factor in your second sub which'll interfact with your other sub, create even more cancellations and boosts...

www.audiosciencereview.com

Does anyone else phase a sub to cancel a room resonance?

Sub placed just left of the right main, room eq not yet applied. Sub-to-mains time offset was twiddled (after setting crossovers) to get "best" balance of cancellation at 38Hz and support at 49 and 81 Hz. Each trace is a single measurement at the main listening position. I then measured...
www.audiosciencereview.com www.audiosciencereview.com

Mine looked that blue response before but with alignment and EQ sound quality improved, not boomy, and could tell bass coming from subs equally.

I'm not sure how you'd do it, I presume you have high level, left channel for left sub, high level, right channel for right sub? Need to spend fair bit of time with phase controls.
 
/\/\/\ Agree with that. I sold a fair few Aiwa 'Music systems' in my electrical retail days. Cheap but not cheerful, didn't sound good either.
 
Dug out my records and am enjoying listening to them using a Rega RP1 (RSD version), an iamnobody headphone amp and my Senn HD 530 headphones (replacement ear pads on the way from China).

The records have been stashed in the corner of our bedroom behind a bedside table for 30 years. Good job I always took care of them.
 
I can't remember if I posted my set up in here, nothing fancy but mostly Cambridge audio aero and minx series with onkyo atmos speakers with my Denon x2200w still going strong but I've been using my Surfans and Shure se846s lately and after maybe 4/5 years I'm still so damn impressed by them(maybe because my main set up isn't high end) with FLAC it's like having the band play inside my head!
 
gc4170 said:
There's a funky power Plixir supply that runs both of the Chord boxes and a English Audio 8 switch with a Farad Super 3 powering that.
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What are your thoughts on the English Audio 8 network switch?

For the past two years, I have been using a Russ Andrews network switch along with additional galvanic ethernet filters. The Russ Andrews switch is supplied with its own dual-voltage power supply.

Prior to the RA switch, I was running a standard D-Link DGS-108 switch with an iFi iPower2 PSU. But then I happened to find a RA switch pre-owned, I thought if the RA switch makes no difference I'll just re-sell, but it made an improvement again over the D-Link.
 
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I just picked up some Q Acoustics 5040 and a Marantz PM6007 to replace a dying soundbar.

I got the Marantz cheap because the remote control didn't control volume. I took it to pieces and put it back together and the volume control from the remote worked again! It's literally just a motor to turn the volume control. I recon it was just boards that needed re-seating, the process of probing the motor kicking it back to life or just that the knob was pushed too far down so the motor wasn't powerful enough to turn it.
 
I owned that same model MiniDisc player for a couple of years, I bought it from RS. When I was able to burn CD's, I sold it to a family friend who kept badgering me to sell it to him, I think he still owns it to this day 20 years or so later.
 
Mr_Orange said:
I just picked up some Q Acoustics 5040 and a Marantz PM6007 to replace a dying soundbar.

I got the Marantz cheap because the remote control didn't control volume. I took it to pieces and put it back together and the volume control from the remote worked again! It's literally just a motor to turn the volume control. I recon it was just boards that needed re-seating, the process of probing the motor kicking it back to life or just that the knob was pushed too far down so the motor wasn't powerful enough to turn it.
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I'm not sure I'm a fan of the optical input/DAC on the pm6007. It's too accurate for it's own good.

For music/film it's great because music and film have good sound production. However for example YouTube the sound is very fatiguing depending on the video. I think it's because youtubers mix sound on something that doesn't have good treble so the treble in the mix ends up being a little harsh. The analogue input or the TV DAC (not sure which one) is less accurate and less harsh.
 
Mr_Orange said:
I'm not sure I'm a fan of the optical input/DAC on the pm6007. It's too accurate for it's own good.

For music/film it's great because music and film have good sound production. However for example YouTube the sound is very fatiguing depending on the video. I think it's because youtubers mix sound on something that doesn't have good treble so the treble in the mix ends up being a little harsh. The analogue input or the TV DAC (not sure which one) is less accurate and less harsh.
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YouTube isn't known for its sound quality, I wonder what bitrate / codec it is? Probably no more than 256kbps for the videos. I find the volume isn't the best either i.e. you have to crank up the volume quite a bit more compared to other media

Ps. I like the brushed aluminium finish on those Marantz!
 
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Trick said:
I know Sony equipment isn’t that well regarded in the upper eschelons of hifi kit, but I do think they nailed it with their late 90s aesthetic.





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Most in the UK are unaware that Sony also made some serious high end gear. It’s a bit of a shame that we never really saw much of it sold over here.
 
Trick said:
I know Sony equipment isn’t that well regarded in the upper eschelons of hifi kit, but I do think they nailed it with their late 90s aesthetic.





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I love the look of 90s/00s Sony stuff and used to have quite a bit of it when I was younger.

More recently I've been keeping an eye out for kit in the ES/QS range and building another little system for a bit of nostalgia.
 
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agw_01 said:
I love the look of 90s/00s Sony stuff and used to have quite a bit of it when I was younger.

More recently I've been keeping an eye out for kit in the ES/QS range and building another little system for a bit of nostalgia.
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I used to have a Sony tava8es home cinema amp, it was a very nice bit of kit.
 
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