LED Fans for Antec 300

Hey shinester184,

I used some 120mm Sharkoon Silent Eagles 1000 Blue LED Edition in mine, good cooling, fairly quiet, white braided cables and cost about £8.00 each :cool:

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Lol thanks, it's a personal thing of course but you and I must be one of 57 people worldwide who love blue LEDS! :p

Yup the Sharkoons are decent and can't fault them really although I think Sharkoon should release a whole spectrum of colour LED fans! :o
 
Big.Wayne sorry for jumping in but it looks like you have the back fan taking out and the thermalight with no fan going towards the top fan is that correct m8 and if so does it cool ok and sorry for jumping in
 
Hey sunderland, no worries and well done for your keen eye lol! :p

Yeah you got it right, both the rear 120mm fanspace and the sidepanel 120 fanspace have had a bit of anti-dust foam expertly :o gaffered into place with the TRUE being passively cooled by the Positive air flow from the two 120mm Sharkoons 1000's with just a single 140mm Antec Tri-Cool on low rpms acting as exhaust.

I will be ordering some proper 120mm screwable fanfilters to replace the ghetto antidust effort, the amount of dust that gets trapped there is no joke, the system inside is still immaculately clean which I'm pleased about (don't like filthy case interiors!)

I'm running a midly overclocked Wolfdale E5200 dual core so the semi passive TRUE is enough to keep that around 58°C full load

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I think to really crank that overclock more (or in the case of a quad-core user) then you would need to either attach a fan to the TRUE or perhaps fit the rear 120mm fan back (or a combination of the two if really running a toasty overclock!).

@shinester184: If your not aiming for a vCore hungry *massive* overclock or maybe you are running a dual core then I'm not convinced you will need to use the rear 120mm fanspace, if thats the case then maybe also order yourself some 120mm screwable antidust filters as while the Antec 300 provides a brilliant fan filter design for your front intake fans the side panel doesn't and neither does the rear 120mm fanspace should you decide you don't need one!

On my set-up the top mounted exhaust 140mm Tri-Cool pulls air in through the empty 120mm rear fanspace despite running at minimum rpms and having mostly postitive airpressure from the two front 120mm Sharkoons! After a few weeks of running there is s fair amount of fluff and crud caught up in the sponge, your milage may vary! :cool:

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The base of the TRUE is shaped to make better contact accross the middle so you may have some benefit that way round on a dual. Of course, that's not the case if it's lapped :)
 
Big.Wayne thanks for the advice mate and nice looking fans love the blue ones,have you got your thermalight lapped mate as i didnt want to do that when i get one but watched a video on youtube and it looks easy so will buy one now,p.s nice setup aswell
 
Nope the TRUE isn't lapped, just unwrapped new and plonked right onto the chip with no fuss. Thermalright has updated the QC and bundle, I don't think there was ever a serious problem with these things but some people made a right fuss out of it and before you know the old web chinese whispers took over! :o
 
Big.Wayne said:
Nope the TRUE isn't lapped, just unwrapped new and plonked right onto the chip with no fuss. Thermalright has updated the QC and bundle, I don't think there was ever a serious problem with these things but some people made a right fuss out of it and before you know the old web chinese whispers took over! :o
Click to expand...

After taking mine off a chip I noticed a central line of contact approx 1cm wide where the coating had been tarnished, ie metal on metal. It was exactly covering the cores though so I don't see any point in lapping.

There was a few little 'bits' stuck in the black coating. I used a jewellers glass to see as I shaved them off with a blade. I get 27c idle and 46c at 3.3GHz full load (prime) so it seems to be working OK :)
 
Hey Cybermyk, your quite correct, the way I have the TRUE orientated does suit a Dual-Core but I dare say it would also work well with a Quad-Core.

Now we have taken shinester184's thread a little off-topic so perhaps we should stop oops! :o
 
Sorry to take off-topic again, just to make clear this 1cm of contact is in the same orientation as the fins on the heat sink or opposed direction?

And as to blocking the back fans to create positive pressure, why not turn the back fans around to blow into the case to enhance the column of air going to the top fan? (Or is this too close to the PSU exhaust fan, since the hot air would be rising from below this intake)

One final point do you need fan filters on the exhaust fan at all? Or is just a case of them being fairly cheap so why not?

Many Thanks
 
Hey Andrew G,

I'm not aware of the TRUE's base being uneven anymore but if it did have a slight convex base I think that line would be the same direction as the fins, honestly though I don't think this is something you should worry about! :p

In the example above I mentioned using Fan-Filters on the cases side panel 120mm Fan-Space and the rear 120mm Fan-Space *if* not using the rear 120mm fan.

I dare say if one is using a rear 120mm exhaust you wouldn't need to use a fan filter as the air-pressure travelling in the opposite direction should keep the dust out! :)

As to your suggestion of reversing the cases airflow (having the rear and top fans blowing in and the front case fans as exhausts) that is something I have considered although due to time constraints not tested it myself. You would deffo need fan-filters on the rear 120mm and top 140mm fan if running a reverse Antec 300 airflow, you would also not be really using the cases superb front-intake fan filters (or at least they would be collecting dust from the inside so probably best removed!). :(

I think using the classic front intake/rear exhaust is probably best for most Antec 300 users, although to keep the case interior dust free you would need to add at least one 120mm fan filter on the cases side-panel 120mm fanspace otherwise that will hoover in a fair bit of dust.

I'm also not so sure the rear/exhaust 120mm fan follows good airflow principles as its creates a contention of airflow against the top 140mm exhaust (i.e a tug of war which way the air should travel!).

Truth be told I have found Positive-Airflow works best so far in the Antec 300, as I'm sure most are aware to create Positive air-pressure you need to ensure there is more air being blown into a system than exhausted, that is the primary reason I took out the single rear 120mm fan leaving just a slow turning 140mm roof exhaust and to some extent the PSU's slow turning 80mm!

Now most of the air in my system is being sucked in via the two front 120mm fans and exhausted via the roof. I may well build/source two 120mm Fan Space sized blanking plates and seal up the case side 120mm fan space and the rear 120mm fan space and save myself some hoovering! . . I don't think sealing up these two vacant fan spaces will have a significant impact on cooling if you pay attention to organising your airflow!

Lol, its amazing how much you can talk about such a tiny subject! :o

The Antec 300 Rocks, wish I bought more when they were selling for £30! :p
 
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