**Official IP35-Pro Heatpipe Cooling Mod Thread**

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**Official Abit IP35-Pro Heatpipe Cooling Mod Thread**

I thought i'd share with you what a lot of us IP35-Pro users are doing which is improving the cooling of the heatpipe by 5-15c for temps on the northbridge (chipset) and mofsets (PWM)!!! My chipset (Northbridge) went down by about 5c with mx-2 paste, my mofsets (PWM) went down by LOADS, maybe 15c under load, cant quite remember.

Under the mofsets cooling part of the heatpipe there is a brown rubbery pad which is supposed to conduct the heat from the mofsets to the heatpipe, it is VERY poor at conducting heat.

Under the southbridge part of the heatpipe there is thermal paste, its quite tacky, probably cheap and nasty.

Under the northbridge (main part of the heatpipe) there is a small heat conductive pad which is VERY poor at conducting heat.

Below is photo of the stock cooling:

2jg2y4o.jpg


High res: http://i27.tinypic.com/2zt97vn.jpg

Below is a photo of the mofsets with MX-2 paste on instead of crappy rubber pad. Be careful not to get paste near the 3 legs of each mofset:

2wnsoas.jpg


High res photo: http://i30.tinypic.com/xq989i.jpg

Poor qual photo of the southbridge with MX-2 paste applied:

2ebwra1.jpg


Photo of the northbridge with MX-2 paste on with the old thermal pad shown next to it:

domoog.jpg


High res: http://i29.tinypic.com/35ciqv5.jpg



BOLT MOD SECTION:



a lot of the boards have bad contact between the pipe and the thing they are cooling as the push spring clips dont do a very good job, what you can do is to use Bolts and Screws, they will give a very close contact and lower your temps significantly.

attachment.php


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More info about the bolt mod can be read here:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showpost.php?p=2330347&postcount=751
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showpost.php?p=2711085&postcount=4575
http://forums.anandtech.com/message...ORDFRM=&STARTPAGE=1&FTVAR_FORUMVIEWTMP=Linear

Hope this thread helps you out a lot! I havent personally done the bolt mod as i need the bolts, screws and non-conductive washers but i may do in the future.
 
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Did mine at the w-end and it dropped PWN temps by 10c.

But you have to check that the thing is actually straight. My PWN heatsink was slightly tilted to one side and still wasn't making firm contact with a couple of the mosfets after the first seating.
 
yeah, mine had good contact on pwm and northbridge, the southbridge wasnt perfect contact so i forced it down a fair bit using the push spring clips which slightly bends the pipe so that it makes a good contact. PWM temps drops are massive using this mod and 5c ISH on the chipset is nothing to be sniffed at. There is no way to tell the temp on the southbridge as far as i'm aware.
 
Good post. I think I'll take a look at my commando, but would it be better to use nylon nuts and bolts to minimize potential shorts and that the thread would give out before over tightening and cracking the MB, just a thought.
 
yes, nylon, plastic or non-conductive washers. Those will be the only part making contact with any tracks on the board. I'll give the bolt mod a whirl at some point but i'm quite happy with the thermal paste mod at the moment. What i'd really like would be for someone to do what i have done, record idle and load temps and then try the bolt mod and compare temps. As the people who did the bolt mod put thermal paste on at the same time, so cant tell how much of a difference it will make in temps.
 
Below is a photo of the mofsets with MX-2 paste on instead of crappy rubber pad. Be careful not to get paste near the 3 legs of each mofset:

Am I not mistaken that MX-2 is none conductive so if some did get on the pins it would not matter.

But a nice post, you just need to add things like the size of the screws and bolts to use.


Im not sure if I will do mine as my temps are fine.
 
I take it that normal thermal paste, ie, Arctic Silver 5 or Thermalright Chill factor, is conductive then?
 
How would you stop the paste getting on the legs of the mofset then, as when you apply pressure on the heatsink above the mofsets it would spread out the paste and possibly spread onto the legs??
 
They claim MX-2 is electrically-non conductive or capacitive. If you're bothered at all use Céramique (generic silicon paste) and put it where like, ohh er.
 
"Turbo MX-2 is a high conductive and low resistance compound for components that require the best thermal dissipation. MX-2 is ideally suited for use in CPU, GPU cooling and other applications between power semiconductor components and heat sinks where high thermal conductivity is critical. Since the MX-2 compound does not contain any metal particles, there are no problems regarding electrical conductivity and capacitance. In contrast to silver and copper compounds, contact with electrical traces, pins, and leads cannot result in any damage. Curing and bleeding of the compound is not possible. In contrast to metal or silicon pastes, this compound does not show decreasing performance over time, does not need to be reapplied and has a durability of at least 8 years."

Thats the write up Overclockers gives for the MX-2, which seems to conterdict itself
 
I got my Ip 35 pro pretty much as soon as ocuk got it in and it has been oc'd since day one and I think it's designed to withstand high temps so nobody should be worried but a nice mod to do and guide if your bored one day.
 
lettuce said:
"Turbo MX-2 is a high conductive and low resistance compound for components that require the best thermal dissipation. MX-2 is ideally suited for use in CPU, GPU cooling and other applications between power semiconductor components and heat sinks where high thermal conductivity is critical. Since the MX-2 compound does not contain any metal particles, there are no problems regarding electrical conductivity and capacitance. In contrast to silver and copper compounds, contact with electrical traces, pins, and leads cannot result in any damage. Curing and bleeding of the compound is not possible. In contrast to metal or silicon pastes, this compound does not show decreasing performance over time, does not need to be reapplied and has a durability of at least 8 years."

Thats the write up Overclockers gives for the MX-2, which seems to conterdict itself
Click to expand...

Obviously the difference between thermal conductivity and electrical. Its not very clear from that I agree.
 
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OK just done the mod, and my temps dont seem to have change!!! :(. Im not too sure how tight i should have done the nut and bolt up?, i was holding the nut with a pair of needle nose pliers and tightening the screw with a screw driver with just 2 fingers, how tight should these be done up? Maybe i just need to wait for the themral paste to set in?
 
C64 said:
I got my Ip 35 pro pretty much as soon as ocuk got it in and it has been oc'd since day one and I think it's designed to withstand high temps so nobody should be worried but a nice mod to do and guide if your bored one day.
Click to expand...

Designed to withstand high temps is one thing but not when your pwm reading hits 107C, alarms go off and your pc shuts down...........

Now doesn't go over 67C with he bolt mod. And on mine 6 of the mofsets weren't even touching the heatsink which can't be good for stability and long term survival.
 
Sorry for reviving such an old thread, but I would like just to know the size of the bolt and nut used in this mod. I'm planning on buying some on my local hardware store. The sizes stated on the links provided were in the U.S. and I don't know if it's the same here.

Cheers!
 
@Cob, thanks for the quick reply mate.


Okay, so I just wann check if this will be alright to do the mod with this size of bolt and nut.

The BOLT
A2_ScrewBolt_PhilRaPan_M3_20.jpg


Thr NUT
A2_Nut_Hex_M3.jpg


So will a 20mm length for the bolt do the job?
 
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