Nissan Almera 1.4 Clutch Change

Hi all,

My brother has a Nissan Almera 1998 (Phase 1) 1.4.

I believe the clutch has failed, the car is on 111k and we have no receipts for a clutch change so timing is about right. My brother said the car has been fine, not noticing any slip or difficult gear changes but now the car will not go into any gear with the engine running. With the engine off any gear can be selected and the car started in that gear.

The linkage is cable driven and I have adjusted the cable as far as it will go with no effect.

So, would you agree that the clutch has failed? It sounds like it's not disengaging?

Secondly, has anybody ever performed a clutch change on this engine? It's a GA14DE. I think Nissan used them in the older Sunny range too.

The engine bay looks to have ample space around the gearbox.

I have never changed a clutch before, have done many other jobs and been fiddling with cars for years but never had a gearbox off/clutch out.

It seems an ideal opportunity to have a go as access looks good.

What would you suggest. What specialist tools will I require? A clutch alignment tool.

Can anybody give a brief run down on a text-book change?

Many thanks for your time.

Gearbox off was my first big job. Pretty simple stuff really. You can use a clutch alignment tool or just a socket with some tape wrapped around it, or similar.

Drive on ramps halp a fair bit as you'll need to be under the car a lot. I'd certainly recomend a torque wrench, as you'll need some things at specific torques.

On mine, it was supsension struts loosened and arb, so I can pull the drivshafts.
Undo the engine mounts, and undo the bellhousing bolts. pull the box off. undo the pressure plate, and pull the plate itself out. You could easily do it in a weekend if you have everything ready.

Get yourself a haynes, and the help of an online forum and you should be good!

Hi guys,

Made a start on this yesterday. Need to borrow a second trolley jack to finish the job as need one to support the engine when I take a couple of mounts off.

One thing that confuses me a little, the Haynes says to replace the circlips on the driveshafts.

Are circlips the thin metal circles that sit in a groove on the gearbox end of the shaft?

If so, when replacing them do you just push the new ones all the way into the same groove?

What's the purpose of the clips?

I've never replace a driveshaft circlip unless I've been replacing the whole CV joint which come with new ones fitted anyway.

But yes, it is the bit you're thinking of, and no, I wouldn't bother to be honest.

Would you recommend I undo the hub nut to get the shaft completely out of the way or is this usually not necessary.

First-timer and doing this on my drive.

If you think can get the hub nuts undone and the balljoints split easily with the tools you have then, yeah, I would take them out, it'll leave you with more room to move the 'box about.

Not that the hubs nuts will probably be on pretty tight, and that ball joints can be a pain in the ass to split.

If you decide to leave the shafts in the hub, be careful when removing the shafts from the gearbox, just yanking away at the hub will more often than not just split the CV joint from the shaft, it's a messy job to put back together if you do. I'd advise jently prying the inner CV out of the gearbox.

cool beans for taking it on. pics would be good to see whats involved under there

when the clutch died on my golf (154k miles, german stuff better ) it would not go in gear with the engien running, it would not disengage the clutch.

part of the friction disc had fallen apart and jammed the release mechanism. no slip at all though

Finally got the clutch off today, bit of a pain but kept at it.

The Haynes says to replace the drive shaft oil seals, is this neccesary. It'll be a doddle to do with the box off however I am not sure it'll be so easy to get the parts.

The clutch isn't worn to the rivets so the fly wheel is in fine condition. The reason for the failure is one of the shock absorbing springs in the clutch plate itself decided to fall to bits. Lots of little bits of spring jammed between the clutch and pressure plate. Luckily none between clutch and fly wheel.

Any other tips for refitting the clutch?

Was hoping to do it Sunday but some major storms are on the way so may have to delay for a couple of days.

I think I will be ok without taking the driveshafts out but If I need to I won't split the ball joints as I can't see any reason.

Also, why would a circlip come with a CV kit, I thought you left the driveshafts in place when fixing a CV joint? (Been looking into this for my next job but on my own van).

When I had the clutch changed on my old Almera GTi the mechanic/friend did not replace the driveshaft seals at first but had to in the end as they leaked. I would change them if I were you.

Bit of an odd one, been looking up clutch prices and stock and the reg produces a 190mm clutch on every site I visit.

I measured the clutch plate diameter and it's 180mm. The faulty one is stamped Nissan too.

Shall I assume the car had the correct clutch fitted and replace like for like?

Had some trouble sourcing the clutch, do you guys think this is the correct replacement part?

No idea to be honest, the little fingers look a lot shorter on the new one. but if it all fits then fine. Good effort so far for doing it yourself.

I would say its worthwhile changing the gearbox seals. On the one I've done they leaked as soon as I put the box back on. Mosy frustrating.

As for removing the shafts completely, I did this as it ensures the shafts aren't dragging about on the floor and getting grubby. But you'll need the wheels on the floor, and a big breaker bar, to get them off, otherwise they will just spin. Mine where torqued to 250nm or so.

You'll also need a big torque wrench to put them back on as well.

Hi guys,

Turns out that although the pressure plate was the correct size and the release bearing slightly larger (internal hole the same size as existing) there were 3 dowels on the fly wheel that didn't align with the new pressure plate. If you look out the old plate next to the 6 large bolt holes, 3 of them have a smaller dowel hole. Doesn't exist on the new plate. I don't have a pillar drill otherwise would have probably adapted the pressure plate.

I decided the old pressure plate and bearing were in fine condition so refitted it all only replacing the clutch plate. In an ideal world you would obviously do all 3. There was a clutch listed at the supplier which I couldn't compare with and can only consume this was the correct model. It was 3 times the price of the one I fitted though and a wait on them obtaining stock. I thought, what the heck give it a go as my brother is struggling without his car!

The clutch kit didn't come with a plastic alignment tool. My mechanic mate told me it wasn't actually very difficult as people think. Just do it by eye and feel. So that's what I did, it was quite obvious if it was out of alignment. Plus, the gearbox wouldn't go on if it wasn't aligned right anyway.

A few hours later it was all back together. The last remaining bolts and parts fitted with torch light! Can't wait for the longer days! The winter seems to really drag on.

Moment of truth was a bit nerve racking. Started it up and with the clutch down could get into any gear easily. No crunching and smoother than ever.

Took it for a little drive and it was lovely. Pulled away on steep hills in 2nd no slip at all. Stalls the engine with the handbrake on. Great, pretty pleased with myself (and my Dad as he helped out with refitting everything, would be a mammoth struggle to refit the gearbox alone!).

There is one slight problem, in reverse the car sometimes makes a thud just as you get moving. Pretty sure this is not the clutch though since the clutch operates the same in any gear and this only happens in reverse.

I am thinking that I need to double check engine mounts (although torqued everything up).

Could gearbox oil effect this? The Haynes states monograde 80W. This is hard to find so fitted 75-90W which a friend conveniently had 3l of from a clutch change he did the other week and didn't need the oil (He split the driveshafts at the CV's and left them in the gearbox- clever git).

Also, refilled the gearbox on a slight slope (parent's drive) so the gearbox oil level will be a little low. The gearbox is refilled via a hole on the front of the box, when the oil level in the box is too high it flows out the same hole. When the flow stops, the level is correct.

As the car was facing downhill the level will be incorrect, I know this but had no choice. Will have to find a family member with a flat drive and just top the oil slightly.

Any other ideas on this thud?

Thanks for the previous input chaps.

EDIT - Oh, took the shafts off actually as could see them getting in the way. Had to buy a deep 32mm socket to fit over the nuts and protruding shaft end. We have a 6ft scaffold pole we use as a mega breaker bar, makes light work of most things. Also, I stamped on the break whilst my Dad undid the hub nuts, worked well.

Bump on thud ideas.

Engine mount not 100% tight perhaps?

Worth a check but you would normally feel if the engine mounts were moving about in normal driving, changing gear and coming on and off the throttle.

Are you positive the thud wasn't there before? Sounds like drivetrain slack, as in its picking up the slack in the gears as it turns the other way, I have this in my mercedes, its usual. However I'm not sure in a fwd car.

On the gearbox oil, definitely give filling it on the flat a go, see if there is room for more without overflowing.

Also with a big job like this its worth just getting properly back under it a few days after you've finished just to re-check everything. Make sure its all still torqued up and safe.

Good job though, and well done for getting your hands dirty. Nothing quite like that feeling of getting something done yourself. And think of the money you would have saved!

Thanks Thomas, the noise was definitely not there before.

I plan to get back underneath anyway to check the drive shaft oil seals are fine as didn't replace them.

I will check the engine mount we didn't remove too as any strain on that could have worked something loose.

Could it be the inner CV (I think they're called UV?) joint on the drive shaft do you know? Perhaps I damaged it in removing. I wasn't swinging off of the shaft though but did tap them out of the hubs with a lump hammer (left the nut on the end to not damage the threads).

Hi again,

Checked out the car again today. No driveshaft leaks which is good news as I was worried the seals wouldn't be perfect being 110k and 10years old.

The engine mounts are all nice and tight, put the 6ft scaffold pole on the wrench so they're definately good.

Is it possible that I damaged a inner CV (UV?) joint on the driveshaft. With the car in reverse and the brake firmly on, rocking on and off the bite point makes the inner part of the driveshaft rotate a little but not the outer part on the passenger side. On the drivers side the entire shaft rotates a little.

I am still pretty puzzled as to where this noise is coming from.

I haven't topped the gearbox oil up yet but my mate reckons it's highly unlikely to be that. His call was engine mounts so I will give him a ring for ideas too. Hopefully, someone will give a hint pointing to the issue

Any ideas?