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I built a sub some years ago, very simply with no maths. It worked reasonably I guess. I haven't attempted anything since although i've been tempted. I always thought it would be difficult to get a professional or even acceptable finish, you'll need some good carpentry skills unless you intend to cover them in carpet or something (but presumably not with stereo speakers). I know a couple of suppliers, I doubt they are competitors so here you go:

https://secure.wilmslow-audio.co.uk/ (UK based)

http://www.partsexpress.com/ (USA, but bigger selection)

You should choose drivers you think are suitable, then select the best enclosure type for them (would love to try a transmission line myself, but they are the most complex). Use Thiele small parameters etc to calculate enclosure sises, port location; frequency response of the driver to tune a ported enclosure. Search google for tutorials unless you are already familiar. It is possible to achieve great results for moderate cost, good luck.

There are a number of guides around and also kits from some manufacturers.
I know a chap who has a pair of IPL that he built. Not the most pretty of speakers (actually, pretty f.ugly) and cost him £400 in parts alone. Having said that, they're VERY good at what they do and are probably comparable to commercial designs costing into the thousands.

I'd suggest you start small and cheap, practice your skills, then have a go at the bigger stuff.

Once you're shooting bigger, would be interesting to think about what you fancy building. I assume it use dynamic drivers, but then you have the options of single or multiple drivers, different materials, sealed box/ported/transmission line/horns etc. All of these have their own benefits and compromises, would be interesting to hear what you want to achieve.

Yes I have and still use them as my main Left and Right speakers, plus I built my own sub.

Do you just want to build a pair or design your own first ?????

Designing your own could turn into a life's work.... building a pre-designed "kit", and then tweaking it will yield much better and predictable results.

Have a look at the Wilmslow audio site linked above and see what takes your eye. They also can demonstrate the kits as they build up dem ones.

Mine are oak veneered and French polished, (by me ) and look "bought"

Any other questions fire away

I'm interested in seeing them, could you post them?

Yeah sure no problem, bit tricky to get them looking right in a picture (need an external flash for my D70)

The main speakers, did a strip down and restain/polish a few months ago, not happy with the textured paint finish on the front, not quite as planned.

They are actually stand mounts, the lower section is empty, I converted the design to make it look like a floor stander. Dynaudio drive units, two 15W75 mid bass units, they are 150mm diameter, and Esotar D260 tweeter (design was originally done by Dr J D'Appolito the daddy of MTM designers for Dynaudio). I then modded it with deflex internal panels, lambs wool stuffing, tweaked port lengths, and now runs with Linn Ninka active crossovers.





The sub, 12 inch 600 watt driver (Visaton) and a 45L Sealed box. Detonation active 300watt sub module from Williams Hart audio, runs +6db at 20Hz equalisation.

Nice, looks great! I can see why you adapted to floorstanding, with that driver arrangement I think they could look top heavy on stands.

Looks quite a monster of a sub . Is the EQ something like a Linkwitz Transform design? It looks like a sealed box so it would be suitable.

Very impressive, nice one.

The Sub amp module Spec:-



And a couple of picture of the rebuild I did a few months back, you can see some of the detailing inside.

Ah right, I see the part called "bass compensation", guess you just set it how you need. The Linkwitz transform device boosts by 6db overy octave you go down (from a determined point), it is supposed to work well on sealed subs (though you must provide some cutoff, probably around 15hz).

The lower chamber has a large opening, is it some kind of port/transmission line design? Though as you say it's converted, perhaps it isn't, and it does appear to be sealed off.

For finishes, I remember hearing about flatbed truck paint. It is obviosly hard wearing (designed to coat the flatbed of a truck for all weathers, scratch resistant etc), but also gives a textured finish. Only saw it on a sub though, might not be too nice on stereo speakers, hard to tell tbh. The front of yours looks great anyhow, how is it done exactly?

Yep, the sub has +6db of boost to compensate for the roll off of the driver in a sealed box. The box volume came form the Driver website, where it was stated a boost was required to extend the range. I went for a sealed design in an attempt to keep it "musical" and be useful for music.... a boom box was not what I wanted !!!! It's probably lost a little in extension and ultimate thump. But it's so over rated for my room/volume needs it does well. The gain control is is on about 2-3 out of 10 !!! roll off at 50Hz. And can send the concrete suspend floor in to resonance, bit like the Millenium bridge !!! LOL.

The mains are a twin rear ported design, (now unequal lengths). The lower area is nothing more then having the side extend to create an integral stand, with a cloth front to fake a floor stander. I left it "open" front and back so as not to create a box to trap and resonate sounds. I also used the space to locate the passive crossovers, getting them out of the enclosure. Now completely removed as like I say they are now active.

The stand/plinth is a Steel bars, cross linked, and infilled with concrete. With Stainless steel spikes. All cabinet walls are made from 25mm thick MDF. (sub and mains) Out side is the iron oak veneer from Wilmslow. Sanded, stained, and French polished.
The grey fronts are Hammerite mat textured paint. It marks to easy.. Might try some of the "stone/granite" effect paint. Or I'll go back to dark grey gloss they use to be.

The way to do it, start with a known product, and with research and reading, (there was no Google and Internet for me when I started these !!!) you can work out a design, and what can be done to enhance them.

To replace the Gemini's would I think cost me about 4-6000 pounds new.... they beat my active Kabers and with exception of bass extension, are better than the Keltiks I had for a while..... They cost me approx £700 to make. The Sub cost me a little less.
So not cheap, but huge value for money.....

Quite fancy doing a SEAS Thor or Odin kit next.....