Stripped and inspected my engine

Man of Honour
Man of Honour
Joined
3 May 2004
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Kapitalist Republik of Surrey
Last night I took the engine up to Bury St. Edmonds to Nervous Bob. A bit of background on the guy - he's worked on small Ford engines (sidevalves) most of his life with Belcher Engineering and Small Ford Spares. He's been hoarding parts for the last decade or so and he's brought in container loads of flathead V8s and vintage ford tin from the US so he can go into business full time building engines and dealing parts. His place looks like an American scrapyard, literally loaded with stuff everywhere and he's got everything. Anyway, if you want any early Ford stuff or a flattie, Model A, B or T engine - he's your man!

Onto more greasy things!

We stripped the bottom end off the engine to have a quick look. First I'll point out that I Blue Hylomar'd the sump gasket and it's always leaked like hell. When we came to try and get the sump off it was stuck solid and took a lot of chipping and levering to get it off so Blue Hylomar gets my thumbs down of disapproval. It's crap. I've used it on the waterworks in the past and it was fine but oil gets past it.

The first comment Bob made was the bores were in good condition and visually they are. The step at the top of the bore where the ring wears up to was really minimal as I'd observed before. We took the big end off and the cap side of it was in ok condition but was worn. The rod side of it was knacked completely. My daily abuse has done it no good and smashed up all the white metal. Check out this for a bit of damage:

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No wonder the oil pressure was dropping off :o ;D

Apparently that's quite normal and these engines are so bulletproof they will run like that with near zero oil pressure for thousands of miles until eventually the damage cracks out to the edge and the oil stops going round the engine! There's no oil filter in this engine so all the metallic sludge from that sits in the bottom of the sump! I could see damage up the sides of the white metal surface on one of the other rods and they all had loads of end float so it's a new bottom end time. The rods can be re-metalled and the crank will be ground.

Up at the top end Bob also mentioned the pistons were in very good condition and was surprised they weren't new when I put them in. Normally the rings wear away the piston and become loose. Mine showed no signs of that, again, what I had observed before when I did the build. What I didn't know was this, here's the top piston ring:

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Looked fine to me, no scorching, gaps were a bit wide when in the bores but I assumed that was because it's an old timey engine.

Close up:

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On a new ring the word 'Top' sits right in the middle of the ring. Here you can see it's worn right down to the top of the T!!! I think we found the oil problems! It's about 1mm of wear on the thickness of the ring.

So the decision was made not to rebore it. I've got him to give it a good long hone and fit a new set of rings. New oversize pistons are expensive at £120 plus VAT and would only take it out to 1220cc from 1172cc so it's not as if it would be a massive gain in size. Because it's not being bored the valves don't need to come out so I also decided not to get the block skimmed down.

It's all good. It keeps the original flavour of the project which was budget power the old way. The rods are going to be expensive but it'll be peace of mind and it'll hold good oil pressure. I was worrying about the cost of the petrol getting up to him but it was a worthwhile trip and it's saved me a packet in not doing un-necessary work.
 
Wow that is a fair bit of damage there! Did you ever get the su carb on there? At least it seems it shouldn't take too long to sort it all out. :)
 
Carbs will be going on when I put it back in the car. They WILL go on this time, I'm determined :D

Did you get my pm on RR?
 
Only just got the PM!

Yes get those damn su carbs on! If you do need a little help setting them up then you know how to get hold of me. Still need to see the Pop!

Oh and soon I may have a spare damper and 140lbs spring, I was thinking Pogo. ;)
 
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Blue Hylomar gets my thumbs down of disapproval. It's crap. I've used it on the waterworks in the past and it was fine

I don't think you should be using Blue Hylomar on your waterworks. If you have a problem, you can get special pants that hold any leakage!

:p
 
I don't think you should be using Blue Hylomar on your waterworks. If you have a problem, you can get special pants that hold any leakage!

:p

:D Hylomar shouldn't be needed on a cork gasket anyway, a smear of grease to hold it in place whilst fitting should be adequate. If the sump leaks from the flange it is probably distorted or the bolts have raised the surrounding metal. Both easily sorted with percussive maintenance.
 
Is there no way to retro-fit an oil filter on these?
Yes you can, the deluxe models came with oil filters :p No point really, just keep an eye on the oil and change it a bit more regularly.

Technically you shouldn't need anything on cork gaskets but reality is usually different. Damn things. I'm going to goo it right up with RTV this time and make sure the surfaces are immaculately clean.
 
I've had the engine back for about 2 weeks now but time and lent out tools have held me back. Before I put the engine back in I wanted to adjust the tappets and give it a bit of a decoke. The tappets are a fiddly job and I'd go so far to say it would not be possible to do it in the car so it needs to be done on the bench with the head off. They were sounding a bit rattly and when I measured them they were up at the top limit so nipped up they should really sing and give me another whole 0.1mm valve lift :D

Decoking, well I'll let the pictures speak for themselves. Looks like the crank case pressure was pushing a hell of a lot of oil up onto the inlet valves and it was just burning on. On the right is what all the inlets looked like, on the left is one I've cleaned:

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This is a grotty job because it's rock hard and you've got to do it with a blunt chisel, blunt so you don't score the valves when you get through. Up at the top in the combustion chambers the same grot was caked up all over the ports so that needed scraping off too:

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It's almost certainly that causing the detonation because it was caked up all inside the top of the head as well. I left the engine last night fully assembled apart from the head which I will put on tonight. My new carbs have turned out to be a bit of a score. They are filthy and were really tight where they had been standing for so long but a bit of WD40 and they are all freed up and appear to be in top condition under the muck. No work needed other than a cleanup by the look of it :)
 
A wire wheel on a bench grinder works wonders on the backs of valves etc. For really stubborn deposits, stick the valve into a drill (hold drill in a vice if it's a hand drill) and use some emery strip on the back of the head.
 
A bench grinder is definitely one of those things near the top of my shopping list. I tried the drill trick but this stuff was like coal, rock hard and all crystalised :eek:
 
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