installing the ocuk h2flo/corsair h60/coolit eco120

Soldato
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23 Oct 2008
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I bought the ocuk h2flo(which is basically the corsair h60 minus the corsair logo on the pump and corsair fain, they're both made by coolit) last month, I've finally got around to fitting it now(building the whole i2500k system now).

looking at http://www.corsair.com/blog/mounting-the-hydro-series-h60-cpu-cooler-to-your-intel-motherboard & http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HO9APx2yKrg the installation seems fairly straight forward but I'm having issues with fitting the back plate onto the motherboard with the stand offs/risers(the corsair blog calls them standoffs while the guy in the youtube video calls them risers), once I get all 4 standoffs/risers screwed in not all 4 of them seem secure(1/2 of them can be wriggled, in some cases all 4, I've tried 'twisting' the back plate 90o then refitting then repete. its a square so it shouldn't make a difference). being trying for the past couple of nights.

I'm hesitant to carry on and fit the pump/waterblock incase the standoffs/risers being 'wriggley' means its not on securely(high temps/risk damaging the i2500k etc).

can any of the h2flo/h60 owners tell me if they found the standoffs/risers loose? it doesn't show it in the video.

p.s. I'm not sure if I'll get any answers as I've tried asking so far without success. oh and the fan/s(I'm going for 2 on the rad) should pull air into the case ore exhaust it)?
 
Random guess,

H602.jpg


Are the nuts you see in the pic above either spinning when the riser is inserted and thus dont tighten, or is the thread stripped?
 
Random guess,



Are the nuts you see in the pic above either spinning when the riser is inserted and thus dont tighten, or is the thread stripped?

the risers go the other side as thats the back of the board, they screw in fine just seem to be able to wriggle couple of them(or all, at 1 point had it so 3 didn't wriggle).
 
from Corsair forums...."This is normal. The backplate and standoffs move a little before the heat sink/pump assembly is installed. Once the assembly is installed onto the cpu, the backplate and standoffs will no longer move. Once you place the assembly on top of the cpu, hold it down firmly until all 4 nuts are tightened securily. This will make sure that the thermal paste doesn't move and makes good contact with the cpu. "
 
well I got it fitted and the pump/waterblock seems to be secure and not wobbly, I did give the thumb screws a few turns with a flathead screw driver as I wasn't sure if I'd twisted them enough especially one of them which had heatsink to the side and below it so difficult getting my fings in there.

got the i2500k system built up in the cm cosmos s case(well almost complete not got the 2nd 6950 toxic, 2nd pair of ram or the hard disk the os is going on the 128gb crucial m4 ssd. also not fitted the 3 roof extracting fans, currently only have front intake and 2 fans on the radiator as intake)). need to install windows and the drivers now, once its all ready I'll test it then add the missing few bits mentioned.
 
well I got it fitted and the pump/waterblock seems to be secure and not wobbly, I did give the thumb screws a few turns with a flathead screw driver as I wasn't sure if I'd twisted them enough especially one of them which had heatsink to the side and below it so difficult getting my fings in there.

Be careful, apparently corsair have removed the slots in the thumbscrews on the newer revision hydro pumps to stop people from over-tightening them, seems just a shade over hand tight is the sweet spot. I did hand tight and then a half turn.
 
well its coming off again shortly anyway as it appears I'll have to rma the motherboard due to issues with the ram slots 3&4, getting code 45 when I have ram in slot 3or4 but not when in 1or2. going to try my other set of ram to make sure but looks like it will need to be rmaed.
 
If I'm honest - no one on this forum could care.

Excuse me, did you actually say that?

There are many people on this forum who spend many hours helping with problems where we can.

But I'm forgetting, you've been a forum member for a whole 4 days now and have made 3 posts, 2 of which are useless, so you know all about it.

If you bothered to look you'll see that fowler002 has been given a lot of advice about his problem in other threads, such as this one:

Error 45 Asrock Extreme7 gen3

Edit

Nice one Maccy :)
 
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well for those that do care, once i sort out the mobo what's the best thermal paste to get? I have some mx-2 but I've had it for a few years and it seem to be drying up(I tried to 'inject'(as its in a syringe) some out on some tissue and it seems more solid then it used to be.

as for the mobo I'm thinking of getting the asus p8z68v-pro/gen3(£158 from a competitor as ocuk do the non-gen3), or the gigabyte z68xp-d3 trying to decide if I should pay the extra for the asus. need xfire(as bought 2x sapphire 6950 toxic) or would have gone z68ap-d3(or asus equivalent).

with the asrock I've asked for refund but going to phone up and see if they'll change it to replacement, as it's over 28days old going to be sent to asrock so I 'll be without the mobo for at least a month thus thinking of buying another. if asrock do replace/fix it and send it back I'll just sell it on here or may sell the cheaper mobo, after the hassle I had with it not sure(or maybe an idea to keep the cheap one as a backup).
 
I have the none Gen 3 p8z68 pro and love it so I can highly recommend the gen3.
As for Tim I think ic diamond carat is still one of the best on the maket.
 
I have the none Gen 3 p8z68 pro and love it so I can highly recommend the gen3.
As for Tim I think ic diamond carat is still one of the best on the maket.

I see you've got 6950 xfire, how is the spacing between the cards and temps in use(i.e is the top card effected?)? as I said I'll be using xfire so that'll be of interest.

as for the ic diamond I'd read it can be a bit of a headach to clean, so in the future if I was to change cooler/cpu how difficult would it be to clean. and the 7cart is the same as the 24carat just cheaper and less in the syringe right?
 
Yeah its the same just a smaller tube. I don't know about cleaning it as I haven't used it yet, I'm sure some arcticlean would shift it though.

There is 3 slot spacing between the first two slots and two slot spacing between the 2nd and 3rd, temps are good, top card is usually 5-7c hotter so not that much.
 
Yeah its the same just a smaller tube. I don't know about cleaning it as I haven't used it yet, I'm sure some arcticlean would shift it though.

There is 3 slot spacing between the first two slots and two slot spacing between the 2nd and 3rd, temps are good, top card is usually 5-7c hotter so not that much.

thanks for the replies.

I will be posting the asrock to ocuk on friday as I've got something at 10.55am and the post office is near there(not posted yet as not got a box out to pack the mb box into and I don't have a car at the moment so getting out to the post office is a problem). still need to call up and get it changed to exchange, got put off today due to being busy with other stuff.

will then be looking to order the new mb sometime next week, then hopefully will have the system built shortly after getting the motherboard(as long as I don't get the same problem). will need to also order an 'adapter' for fitting the ssd as well(the asrock came with 1).

btw do you know if I have the soundcard(creative x-fi titanium fatal1ty) in the pci-e x1 slot above the first 6950(the 2nd pci-e x1 will be blocked by the cooler on the 6950) if it'll effect the sound card in any way?
 
well for those that do care, once i sort out the mobo what's the best thermal paste to get? I have some mx-2 but I've had it for a few years and it seem to be drying up(I tried to 'inject'(as its in a syringe) some out on some tissue and it seems more solid then it used to be.

I care :)

I'd go for Arctic Cooling MX-4.

I'm using it on both my systems, and several systems built for other people, and it gives perfectly satisfactory results.

Personally I wouldn't use Arctic Silver 5. Capacative, conductive or whatever it is, why take the chance. It also has a 200 hour curing time.

I've also tried IC Diamond 7/24 Carat (it's the same stuff). Horrible thick goo and gave me worse results than MX-4.
 
I care :)

I'd go for Arctic Cooling MX-4.

I'm using it on both my systems, and several systems built for other people, and it gives perfectly satisfactory results.

Personally I wouldn't use Arctic Silver 5. Capacative, conductive or whatever it is, why take the chance. It also has a 200 hour curing time.

I've also tried IC Diamond 7/24 Carat (it's the same stuff). Horrible thick goo and gave me worse results than MX-4.

I agree, I also prefer the MX-4 to the above! as with the IC Diamond at best, I only got it to match the MX-4 on temps.
 
btw do you know if I have the soundcard(creative x-fi titanium fatal1ty) in the pci-e x1 slot above the first 6950(the 2nd pci-e x1 will be blocked by the cooler on the 6950) if it'll effect the sound card in any way?


It shouldn't at all, both of the PCIe x1 lanes have the same bandwidth so nothing would be restricted.
 
It shouldn't at all, both of the PCIe x1 lanes have the same bandwidth so nothing would be restricted.

no I mean more in terms of the heat from the graphics cards, its the sapphire toxics so from what I've read most of the heat is exhausted out the back tho there would still be some 'escape' into the case(unless I've got that wrong).
 
no I mean more in terms of the heat from the graphics cards, its the sapphire toxics so from what I've read most of the heat is exhausted out the back tho there would still be some 'escape' into the case(unless I've got that wrong).

It'll be fine.

I have a sound card sandwiched between 2 graphics cards and there's no problem.
 
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