650D watercooling build Tutorial

Soldato
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Been getting asked loads of questions around watercooling via trust so heres a quickie tutorial with clickable thumbs:

So taking a leaf from this thread: http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18344480 (Thanks EllisDJ!)

I put this lot together into a 650D without any case modifications:
Liang DDC 18w + XSPC Bay res
Koolance 280 CU Radiator (needs to be a slim radiator)
XSPC Raystorm GPU Block
2 x 140mm Akasa Apache Fans

20111206_191323.jpg


Firstly a quick flush of all the bits and bobs to clean out any debris and then pump mounted onto the Bay res:



bay res and pump in place - very tight fit - no need to screw anything in!:


One thing to bear in mind is that the front cover doesn't fit over the bay res - so install the front cover BEFORE installing the bay res as I painstakingly found out!! :(

A 280mm Radiator will not mount straight into the top to be able to use fans in a push configuration due to the top external SATA plastic getting in the way as evidenced here:


Fans attached to the Radiator I then in turn attached the fans to the top of the case. You can see how much clearance is available in the pics below using 25mm thick fans with a 30mm Radiator:


With the CPU block temporarily put in place (no thermal paste and didnt remove the plastic cover for the copper side) you can get a rough idea of how much tubing you need and where its going to go, alongside which fittings you need where:

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24hour leak testing (just to be extra sure!)
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End result:


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Phowar! - Must say I like this new CPU block - its got some nice curves, excellent fittings which allow you to add more pressure if required also!

temps are -15 Degrees C lower than using a Corsair H100 (cost is double too though!) - I'm now getting 55Degrees C using IBT standard (8Threads) and 61Degrees C using IBT Maximum (again 8 threads).

Overall a very satisfactory result as I will be adding a GPU block once the new gen graphics cards are available so it should all stay in check otherwise I can add a 120mm radiator to where the rear fan is for extra cooling ;)
 
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Nice Bro!


The Raystorm the block looks sweet! - Hoping the AM3 version looks half as good!

How is the 2700 clocking under that block? I've seen the reviews on just how good it is for the chip.
 
I ain't been bothered to try pushing it again beyond 4.6 tbh. Even though I can get it 200% stable at 4.8 I have problems booting due to the mainboard I think.

Sticking with 4.6 - preliminary tests (without letting the IC Diamond stuff time to set) is IBT Standard (8 threads) - 54Degrees C, IBT Maximum (8 threads) goes to 61 Degrees C. I'm sure thats about 2 degrees less than what I was getting before with a Supreme HF and a 120.3 Thermochill rad!! :)

Once a newer BIOS comes out to address booting issues I'll push up further maybe. To be honest I'm waiting for the newer 7xxx series of GPU's then will throw that into the loop for complete silence.

The Apaches are a tad noisey at full whack - but I've got em throttle using the mainboard fan control so they only ramp up when CPU goes above 45Degrees C - Can hardly hear them now! - meesa happy :)
 
Did you have any problems fixing the res in place with the toolless drive mounting things? I wanted a bay res in my 650D but went for a pump res combo in the end.
 
Are you using a 120mm Apache at the back?

Yup 120mm Apache at the back mate - Leaving this as is for now until I get maybe another 120mm rad when I add graphics to the loop.

Did you have any problems fixing the res in place with the toolless drive mounting things? I wanted a bay res in my 650D but went for a pump res combo in the end.

Nah mate, no problems other than A)- it doesnt fit through the front panel so has to be installed with the front panel in place! and B)- The screw holes didn't line up - but with it being such a snug and tight fit I didn't need to screw it in. ;)
 
2 questions.

1) What the **** have you done with the front panel cables? I had to thread mine through the oblong gap, and that was on an air build! :p

2) Why not go for a 200mm rad at the front? I see you have a megaflow, so you could have a nice clean setup with better cooling than the 120mm rad at the rear.
 
Hey Zoomee,

Nice job there mate - looks good. Got my setup done as well with the same rad/block, and believe it or not I am getting 2-5 degrees better temps - so happy with that.

Mark
 
@@ Tipes - Thanks dude! - Think thats what I'm finding too that compared to the Supreme HF with a 120.3 - I'm getting about 2-3Degrees less temps which is pretty much what i was aiming for. :D

@@EVH - lol, i passed all the front panel cables through a slight hole between the top drive bay and side of the case - I'll take a pick tonight if I get time dude. Front panel cables were the easy stuff - it was the darn power cables with extensions that caused me problems! - Right side of my case is well bulging out at the back.

I didn't want to spoil the air intake from the front fan - If we stick a phobya 200mm rad on it - then thats just hot air coming into the case and out the top - making temps high on graphics cards, memory and mainboard which I'm not keen on. That front intake is the best way of getting cool air into the case - this way the top rear intake can easily be used as an outake aswell ;)
 
@@ Tipes - Thanks dude! - Think thats what I'm finding too that compared to the Supreme HF with a 120.3 - I'm getting about 2-3Degrees less temps which is pretty much what i was aiming for. :D

@@EVH - lol, i passed all the front panel cables through a slight hole between the top drive bay and side of the case - I'll take a pick tonight if I get time dude. Front panel cables were the easy stuff - it was the darn power cables with extensions that caused me problems! - Right side of my case is well bulging out at the back.

I didn't want to spoil the air intake from the front fan - If we stick a phobya 200mm rad on it - then thats just hot air coming into the case and out the top - making temps high on graphics cards, memory and mainboard which I'm not keen on. That front intake is the best way of getting cool air into the case - this way the top rear intake can easily be used as an outake aswell ;)

I suggested it, with a view to cooling the gfx cards too ;)

1 rear exhaust should be plenty (if everything is on water), I'm not sure if there's enough room to do push/pull on a 200mm rad at the front with 2x megaflows... If I get the money together in the new year I'd like to try.
 
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