3960X + 680 3-Way SLI cooling help

^JP^

^JP^

^JP^

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3960X + 680 3-Way SLI Watercooling

I currently have an H100 on my CPU and that is OK up to around 5ghz but its really maxing it out even with push/pull fans.

The three 680s are with stock coolers right now:

3waysli.jpg


Its been may be 10 years since I have done watercooling (eheim pond pump and swiftech peliter for gpu while cpu was under vapochill phase change) and things have changed a lot!


I have put together this shopping list:

btbwc.jpg


Still need to add the EK bridge (serial or parallel?) and some fans (GT 1850s) but you get the general idea.

Do I have enough rad and enough flow?

I am not against running two loops, may be a dual pump res and use the 240 for cpu and 360 for gups?

Some help, ideas and suggestions would be great!

Cheers

JP

PS

This picture on the NZXT website is the kind of thing I was thinking of.

1990ey.jpg
 
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Looks good to me

Serial or parallel, completely up to you

You do have enough raddage, yes. And the D5 is easily capable of that loop :)

ps- your sig is 2 lines too big :)
 
Thanks Cleeecooo,

Am I good with the tube and fittings or would it be better going for 7/16ID and 1/2 barbs?

Going to get a few of the 45 and 90deg adapters also to make things go smoother.

Just need to wait for the new EK CSQ stuff to come in now!
 
minty said:
you could even put a 120 rad on the back where the exhaust is like on that picture.
Click to expand...

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that might not be possible, doesn't look to be a whole lot of room between the top 360 and rear 120 in that picture, factor in the OP will be using a 54mm thick SR1 it could be a bit of a squeeze to get it in.
 
pgi947 said:
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that might not be possible, doesn't look to be a whole lot of room between the top 360 and rear 120 in that picture, factor in the OP will be using a 54mm thick SR1 it could be a bit of a squeeze to get it in.
Click to expand...

Not with SR's, EX rads should do it though :)

note, that 120 in the pic is using push/pull
 
Yeah, at a guess I'd say anything below 45mm + 1 set of 25mm fans should give you room to the rear 120, but I'd sooner have a nice thick 360 in the roof and nothing in the rear :D

If you want even more rad coverage, just bolt a 1080 to the side of it :rolleyes:
 
Cleeecooo said:
Barb vs compressions - its really down to looks and whichever you think looks better :)
Click to expand...

Cheers I think I will give the compressions a go.


Just to confirm, the SR1 360 with one set of GT 1850s will be enough for my system? I don't think Push/Pull will fit as there is only 90mm of internal top space and I didn't want to run thin rads.
I may be able to run two sets of fans on the bottom SR1 240 if required?

Cheers!
 
You won't get any real benefit from going push/pull, the only thing you are likely to gain is a higher system noise.
 
^JP^ said:
Cheers I think I will give the compressions a go.


Just to confirm, the SR1 360 with one set of GT 1850s will be enough for my system? I don't think Push/Pull will fit as there is only 90mm of internal top space and I didn't want to run thin rads.
I may be able to run two sets of fans on the bottom SR1 240 if required?

Cheers!
Click to expand...

You'll need a 360+240 ideally for your system

I suggest you go for 1450 GT's as they're quieter and will wokr just as well (presuming youll be keeping them at low rpms)
 
Sorry, I didn't mean to be confusing!

I wasn't going to skip out the bottom 240 but was just wondering about fan configuration on the top 360.

Ill run only push on both rads with GT 1450's then.
 
Cleeecooo said:
that would be perfect :)
Click to expand...

Thanks!

Here is the current basket:

jpwcx.jpg


Only thing missing I think is the EK Bridge as the new design is not up for pre order yet.

Sorting out the cables on my Seasonic Platinum 1000 is going to be the next problem, sleeving it will be a nightmare :mad:
 
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Does your mosfet get warm? (mine does)

If so it might be worth adding a block for it at the same time? EK make one.
(nice build)
 
If you are going for a bay res anyway why not just get the D5 Bayres and skip the top, shoud leave you a bit more room in the case and save you the price of the top :)
 
wissel said:
Does your mosfet get warm? (mine does)

If so it might be worth adding a block for it at the same time? EK make one.
(nice build)
Click to expand...

To be honest I haven't noticed the mosfet temperature at all, I have the H100 sucking air into the case and over the mosfet/cpu socket/memory as per JJ at Asus recommendation.

I will run some benchmarks in a bit and check the temps.

Update: Max temp I could read on the mosfet heatsink while running IBT is 47C using an infrared thermometer.
I think I will stick with the stock heatsinks for now.

Biffa said:
If you are going for a bay res anyway why not just get the D5 Bayres and skip the top, shoud leave you a bit more room in the case and save you the price of the top :)
Click to expand...

How do they work sound wise? My only concern with having the pump attached to the res is the way its hard mounted with no foam or sound dampening material of any kind.

Been having a look on youtube and damn the spin res waterfall sound is horrid so that is off the list!

The main reason for a bay res was easy filling and monitoring of fluid level but I am now put off the idea.


How about a pump top res for the D5?
 
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