Philips 42PFL6907T 3D HDTV Review
Warning:
This is a LOOONG post. If you're not interested (even in the slightest) in using a HDTV as a computer monitor, then I'd suggest you skip this thread...
I know HDTVs don't get that much attention with computer users (and for a good reason), but I thought I would give my point of view on this matter. Enjoy!
==========================================
Regarding the 6907 in general:
From what I've gathered around the net, the panel used in the 6907 is actually a 100Hz panel. But I'm a little reserved with stating this as a fact. It would seem the source knows the difference between panel specs and marketing hype (like misleading motion interpolation figures), and realizes that TVs don't accept more than 50/60Hz signal. But the same sources also quote 200Hz panels on some of the top-end models (£1500+). I haven't done that much research to confirm, so I don't know if TV tech is indeed so much ahead of computer monitors, who knows. But I highly doubt it.
The set is bought straight from a random e-retailer (also has a regular brick-and-mortar store), no sponsors or discounts. I did this review purely out of my own curiousity. I'm mostly focusing on using the set as a computer monitor. I'm also following the wisdom that if I don't clearly see something wrong, I try to refrain from looking for it with a magnifying glass.
The 42PFL6907T I have was released in the latter half of 2012, so it's still relatively new. I think 6907 is categorized as a higher mid-range product. Cost is about 800-1000€, so it's not actually cheap, especially if you don't even intend to use all the features (for example SmartTV functionality is pretty much useless if using the set with a computer, like I do). And remember, with HDTVs you always have to make compromises. HDTV "low input lag" etc. is not the same as PC monitor "low input lag". PC monitors have their own purpose, HDTVs have theirs. If you mix-and-match, the end result will never be "perfect".
1) 4:4:4 subpixel sampling, picture quality
I can't seem to get it to 4:4:4 mode. I thought/hoped Computer mode + Unscaled picture would do the trick, but apparently it doesn't. Fortunately it is able to give a 1:1 pixel match, though. It might also be a side-effect of the pixel structure being BGR, instead of the often-seen RGB. I haven't yet managed to find a way to tell the computer to take notion of this. Now don't get me wrong, the text is very clear and the contrast is good. But if I put a red text on a blue background (which is the most obvious downfall of non-4:4:4), then the text seems a bit smudged.
Unfortunately, there also seems to be something wrong with the Computer and Game mode; if either one is enabled, the set starts to show color banding. There also seems to be some kind of syncing error in them, too. The television exhibits quite a bit of screen tearing, which is quite annoying especially on videos. Possibly even dropped frames.
SD material (like regular non-HD TV broadcasts) is quite good if you turn down the sharpness to 0. For some reason, with PC it's better to use sharpness at 10 (max). Default is 5, which I thought would give the best result.
2) Size, resolution and distance
I'm looking at a 42" TV from a 1m distance. And I still have to use zoom on websites. Indeed, the "low" resolution isn't a problem for me. If I were to move any closer, it would be too "immersive", as I would have to move my head too much from side to side. At about 50-60cm I begin to be able to separate the pixels from each other.
But do note, the usual 3D viewing distance requirement is not an empty claim. You need at least 2-3m distance from the 42" TV to enjoy the 3D effect properly. Also, if you are using the HDTV from a close distance, you might see that the edges are missing few pixels, cutting the image somewhat (about 1-2mm). They aren't actually gone, you can see them if you watch the particular portion directly or from a greater distance. But if you look at it from an angle, you won't see the full picture.
In any case, I'm so glad I didn't go for 32" (or 27" monitor, for that matter). But yeah, I think my eyesight isn't what it used to be, so each to their own.
3) 3D in general
The few sample videos I found around the net (mostly LG promotionals) look very good. They were all 1920x1080 SBS, so not sure what the lower resolutions would look like.
The glasses themselves are VERY light plastic. There were 4 of them with this set. They cost about 3-10€ per piece, if bought separately. Not very stylish, but better than for example LG's default glasses, I think. And considerably better than ANY active shutter glasses.
4) Input lag
At first (for 4-5 days) I got the lowest input lag in the range of about 50ms. Too much for first person shooters. But then "something" happened. First I wasn't sure what I did that changed it, but it seems it was the Vsync that was throwing me off. Now, with the Vsync disabled and Computer mode enabled, the input lag is a generally tolerable 30-40ms.
Note: "Tolerable" for non-pro and non-hardcore gaming.
To get the above numbers, I used a clone mode between a CRT (VGA) and HDTV (DVI-HDMI), both at 1920x1080@60Hz, and a stop-watch and cellphone camera (Nokia Pureview 808).
For general impression I used Unreal Tournament and FarCry demo. For quick-and-dirty test, I used Human Benchmark Reaction Time Test (http://www.humanbenchmark.com/tests/reactiontime).
5) Surface
Glossy. Glossy. Glossy. Glossy. Glossy.
Not sure if the "official" term is semi-glossy or what. It's not 100% glossy I think, like my laptop seems to be. Or maybe the laptop isn't 100% either, maybe glass fronts are 100%. But in any case, it's still TOO glossy for my taste. Though I've seen Philips' weird implementation of "matte" on some of their 2011 TVs, so this is probably better than that.
6) Backlight
I don't have fast/good enough camera to measure the PWM flicker, unfortunately. The hand-waving and fan tests are noticeable at about 30% backlight intensity (Philips calls it "Backlight contrast"). At 50%, the strobo effect disappears completely to a naked eye. Still, I use mine at 100. For reference, I can notice the strobo effect of those tests with a 100Hz CRT (though can't see the flicker without the tests), so it should be at least better than that. The most obvious contributor to PWM was "Dynamic Backlight". For everyone having issues with flicker causing headaches or tired eyes, I would advice to leave this feature disabled.
There's a VERY slight hint of backlight bleed on lower-left and upper-right corners, when viewing it in a completely dark room in the middle of the night. But do note, this bleed isn't actually observable from the normal viewing position/scenario, as the IPS glow and especially the reflections caused by the glossy surface are much more noticeable.
7) Ambilight
Ambilight projects a light on the wall on the sides of the TV. You can set it as a static color, or make it adjust to the action on the screen. You can change the reaction speed on a scale of 1-10 (I use 10). You can even manually set the color of the wall, so that the TV can calculate the optimal light output. But I think the LEDs use PWM, so I don't enable it all the time. Unfortunately I have no idea how to measure this to confirm it.
But in any case, it certainly is a nice feature. Before I got the input lag in check, I was about to return this set, but because Philips is the only company offering the Ambilight, I already decided to stick with it. And now that the input lag is no longer a problem either, there's no way I'm returning this.
8) 3D gaming through computer
Yes, it should be possible with Tridef 3D. From around the web I got the impression that with passive 3D (FPR) you should select the interleaved reverse mode. My rig consists of GeForce GTS250 (2008) and Core2Duo E6400 (2006), so I don't have that much of a brunt to try it succesfully, as mostly only new games are supported by the software. Well, I tried FarCry demo on XP, and it was great.
9) Misc notions about "enhancements"
Philips' take on motion compensation feature, called "Natural Motion", is quite good. I think Philips was the first company to actually implement this in televisions, so they certainly should have the experience. But there's undeniably something wrong with the 2012 algorhithms, which causes some unwanted artifacts in fast-moving material. This particular feature is probably also the biggest single contributor to input lag.
I think Clear LCD is supposed to be a feature which strobes the backlight to decrease blur. I'm no expert in blurring, so I don't know if it's any good in that regard. It does blur a little, but at least it doesn't bother me enough to look more into it. And I don't notice the feature affecting the blur in any way, so I leave it OFF. Also, I couldn't notice any difference with regards to PWM. For what it matters, I didn't notice "Clear LCD" doing ANYTHING.
10) Bezel, design, interface, wow-factor
The bezel is about 26mm at the bottom, 12mm on sides and top. Don't believe the marketing pictures, they apparently use the same pictures for every model between 55" and 32". Nevertheless, the bezels are not "thick" by any means. I just don't like the false marketing. The depth is about 35mm. The on-screen interface is slow. And I mean slooow. They are trying to improve it, but the results are lackluster. The stand is far from "standard" or boring, but nothing remarkable. Though I have a hard time imagining anything that would qualify for "remarkable". Ambilight makes a very nice impression.
A friend of mine came over a few days ago. He seemed to be impressed. Mostly about the size and clarity, but also the Ambilight. He also asked about the price, which I then told him. He didn't comment on that, and I didn't implore further.
11) Other notes
Be sure to update the firmware, it brings few important fixes. Or at least one. Mine is 0.150.87.0 (released 10/04/2013). New update was released last week, though it doesn't seem to fix any of the issues I'm having, so I'm in no hurry to upgrade. Also, they've had quite a while to fix things, but have only made mostly non-critical fixes. So don't get your hopes up on any of the issues being fixed in the "future" updates. Assume WYSIWYG.
===========================================
General notions regarding HDTVs:
I've always emphasized the 4:4:4 and low input lag, when considering different HDTV options. But for what it's worth, I'm beginning to have serious doubts regarding the importance of 4:4:4 sub-sampling compatibility. Either I'm not identifying it correctly, or then it's basically a non-issue. Low input lag, on the other hand, I still deem very important. The issue that I consider to be a greater concern is screen tearing. There's definitely something wrong with the sync times, and I'm not sure if it's only for this model, or if it's a general issue with all HDTVs when used as a PC monitor. I tried some custom modelines on Linux, but I couldn't get them to override the EDID ones. nVidia control panel for some reason simply wouldn't allow them.
End notes:
And thus my quest for a new "computer monitor" is over. It is a little glossy and the color banding and screen tearing are clearly an inconvenience, but it should do just fine for me. I've been studying the little nuances of monitor and HDTV technologies for at least three years now. If I would calculate the time I "researched" for this purchase and factor in the average salary/wage, I would probably end up crying. Though I don't regret it. I always want to understand why something is a good purchase, so I can value it accordingly.
At some point (once the technology matures), I might re-purpose this into a dedicated TV, and see what's the current trend in the computer monitors.
I put my own setting values (with added notes and analysis) in the spoiler at the end of the post. If you have any question that weren't answered in the wall of text above, then feel free to ask them, I will try to answer them to the best of my knowledge.
Thank you and good night, everyone.
Warning:
This is a LOOONG post. If you're not interested (even in the slightest) in using a HDTV as a computer monitor, then I'd suggest you skip this thread...
I know HDTVs don't get that much attention with computer users (and for a good reason), but I thought I would give my point of view on this matter. Enjoy!
==========================================
Regarding the 6907 in general:
From what I've gathered around the net, the panel used in the 6907 is actually a 100Hz panel. But I'm a little reserved with stating this as a fact. It would seem the source knows the difference between panel specs and marketing hype (like misleading motion interpolation figures), and realizes that TVs don't accept more than 50/60Hz signal. But the same sources also quote 200Hz panels on some of the top-end models (£1500+). I haven't done that much research to confirm, so I don't know if TV tech is indeed so much ahead of computer monitors, who knows. But I highly doubt it.
The set is bought straight from a random e-retailer (also has a regular brick-and-mortar store), no sponsors or discounts. I did this review purely out of my own curiousity. I'm mostly focusing on using the set as a computer monitor. I'm also following the wisdom that if I don't clearly see something wrong, I try to refrain from looking for it with a magnifying glass.
The 42PFL6907T I have was released in the latter half of 2012, so it's still relatively new. I think 6907 is categorized as a higher mid-range product. Cost is about 800-1000€, so it's not actually cheap, especially if you don't even intend to use all the features (for example SmartTV functionality is pretty much useless if using the set with a computer, like I do). And remember, with HDTVs you always have to make compromises. HDTV "low input lag" etc. is not the same as PC monitor "low input lag". PC monitors have their own purpose, HDTVs have theirs. If you mix-and-match, the end result will never be "perfect".
1) 4:4:4 subpixel sampling, picture quality
I can't seem to get it to 4:4:4 mode. I thought/hoped Computer mode + Unscaled picture would do the trick, but apparently it doesn't. Fortunately it is able to give a 1:1 pixel match, though. It might also be a side-effect of the pixel structure being BGR, instead of the often-seen RGB. I haven't yet managed to find a way to tell the computer to take notion of this. Now don't get me wrong, the text is very clear and the contrast is good. But if I put a red text on a blue background (which is the most obvious downfall of non-4:4:4), then the text seems a bit smudged.
Unfortunately, there also seems to be something wrong with the Computer and Game mode; if either one is enabled, the set starts to show color banding. There also seems to be some kind of syncing error in them, too. The television exhibits quite a bit of screen tearing, which is quite annoying especially on videos. Possibly even dropped frames.
SD material (like regular non-HD TV broadcasts) is quite good if you turn down the sharpness to 0. For some reason, with PC it's better to use sharpness at 10 (max). Default is 5, which I thought would give the best result.
2) Size, resolution and distance
I'm looking at a 42" TV from a 1m distance. And I still have to use zoom on websites. Indeed, the "low" resolution isn't a problem for me. If I were to move any closer, it would be too "immersive", as I would have to move my head too much from side to side. At about 50-60cm I begin to be able to separate the pixels from each other.
But do note, the usual 3D viewing distance requirement is not an empty claim. You need at least 2-3m distance from the 42" TV to enjoy the 3D effect properly. Also, if you are using the HDTV from a close distance, you might see that the edges are missing few pixels, cutting the image somewhat (about 1-2mm). They aren't actually gone, you can see them if you watch the particular portion directly or from a greater distance. But if you look at it from an angle, you won't see the full picture.
In any case, I'm so glad I didn't go for 32" (or 27" monitor, for that matter). But yeah, I think my eyesight isn't what it used to be, so each to their own.
3) 3D in general
The few sample videos I found around the net (mostly LG promotionals) look very good. They were all 1920x1080 SBS, so not sure what the lower resolutions would look like.
The glasses themselves are VERY light plastic. There were 4 of them with this set. They cost about 3-10€ per piece, if bought separately. Not very stylish, but better than for example LG's default glasses, I think. And considerably better than ANY active shutter glasses.
4) Input lag
At first (for 4-5 days) I got the lowest input lag in the range of about 50ms. Too much for first person shooters. But then "something" happened. First I wasn't sure what I did that changed it, but it seems it was the Vsync that was throwing me off. Now, with the Vsync disabled and Computer mode enabled, the input lag is a generally tolerable 30-40ms.
Note: "Tolerable" for non-pro and non-hardcore gaming.
To get the above numbers, I used a clone mode between a CRT (VGA) and HDTV (DVI-HDMI), both at 1920x1080@60Hz, and a stop-watch and cellphone camera (Nokia Pureview 808).
For general impression I used Unreal Tournament and FarCry demo. For quick-and-dirty test, I used Human Benchmark Reaction Time Test (http://www.humanbenchmark.com/tests/reactiontime).
5) Surface
Glossy. Glossy. Glossy. Glossy. Glossy.
Not sure if the "official" term is semi-glossy or what. It's not 100% glossy I think, like my laptop seems to be. Or maybe the laptop isn't 100% either, maybe glass fronts are 100%. But in any case, it's still TOO glossy for my taste. Though I've seen Philips' weird implementation of "matte" on some of their 2011 TVs, so this is probably better than that.
6) Backlight
I don't have fast/good enough camera to measure the PWM flicker, unfortunately. The hand-waving and fan tests are noticeable at about 30% backlight intensity (Philips calls it "Backlight contrast"). At 50%, the strobo effect disappears completely to a naked eye. Still, I use mine at 100. For reference, I can notice the strobo effect of those tests with a 100Hz CRT (though can't see the flicker without the tests), so it should be at least better than that. The most obvious contributor to PWM was "Dynamic Backlight". For everyone having issues with flicker causing headaches or tired eyes, I would advice to leave this feature disabled.
There's a VERY slight hint of backlight bleed on lower-left and upper-right corners, when viewing it in a completely dark room in the middle of the night. But do note, this bleed isn't actually observable from the normal viewing position/scenario, as the IPS glow and especially the reflections caused by the glossy surface are much more noticeable.
7) Ambilight
Ambilight projects a light on the wall on the sides of the TV. You can set it as a static color, or make it adjust to the action on the screen. You can change the reaction speed on a scale of 1-10 (I use 10). You can even manually set the color of the wall, so that the TV can calculate the optimal light output. But I think the LEDs use PWM, so I don't enable it all the time. Unfortunately I have no idea how to measure this to confirm it.
But in any case, it certainly is a nice feature. Before I got the input lag in check, I was about to return this set, but because Philips is the only company offering the Ambilight, I already decided to stick with it. And now that the input lag is no longer a problem either, there's no way I'm returning this.
8) 3D gaming through computer
Yes, it should be possible with Tridef 3D. From around the web I got the impression that with passive 3D (FPR) you should select the interleaved reverse mode. My rig consists of GeForce GTS250 (2008) and Core2Duo E6400 (2006), so I don't have that much of a brunt to try it succesfully, as mostly only new games are supported by the software. Well, I tried FarCry demo on XP, and it was great.
9) Misc notions about "enhancements"
Philips' take on motion compensation feature, called "Natural Motion", is quite good. I think Philips was the first company to actually implement this in televisions, so they certainly should have the experience. But there's undeniably something wrong with the 2012 algorhithms, which causes some unwanted artifacts in fast-moving material. This particular feature is probably also the biggest single contributor to input lag.
I think Clear LCD is supposed to be a feature which strobes the backlight to decrease blur. I'm no expert in blurring, so I don't know if it's any good in that regard. It does blur a little, but at least it doesn't bother me enough to look more into it. And I don't notice the feature affecting the blur in any way, so I leave it OFF. Also, I couldn't notice any difference with regards to PWM. For what it matters, I didn't notice "Clear LCD" doing ANYTHING.
10) Bezel, design, interface, wow-factor
The bezel is about 26mm at the bottom, 12mm on sides and top. Don't believe the marketing pictures, they apparently use the same pictures for every model between 55" and 32". Nevertheless, the bezels are not "thick" by any means. I just don't like the false marketing. The depth is about 35mm. The on-screen interface is slow. And I mean slooow. They are trying to improve it, but the results are lackluster. The stand is far from "standard" or boring, but nothing remarkable. Though I have a hard time imagining anything that would qualify for "remarkable". Ambilight makes a very nice impression.
A friend of mine came over a few days ago. He seemed to be impressed. Mostly about the size and clarity, but also the Ambilight. He also asked about the price, which I then told him. He didn't comment on that, and I didn't implore further.
11) Other notes
Be sure to update the firmware, it brings few important fixes. Or at least one. Mine is 0.150.87.0 (released 10/04/2013). New update was released last week, though it doesn't seem to fix any of the issues I'm having, so I'm in no hurry to upgrade. Also, they've had quite a while to fix things, but have only made mostly non-critical fixes. So don't get your hopes up on any of the issues being fixed in the "future" updates. Assume WYSIWYG.
===========================================
General notions regarding HDTVs:
I've always emphasized the 4:4:4 and low input lag, when considering different HDTV options. But for what it's worth, I'm beginning to have serious doubts regarding the importance of 4:4:4 sub-sampling compatibility. Either I'm not identifying it correctly, or then it's basically a non-issue. Low input lag, on the other hand, I still deem very important. The issue that I consider to be a greater concern is screen tearing. There's definitely something wrong with the sync times, and I'm not sure if it's only for this model, or if it's a general issue with all HDTVs when used as a PC monitor. I tried some custom modelines on Linux, but I couldn't get them to override the EDID ones. nVidia control panel for some reason simply wouldn't allow them.
End notes:
And thus my quest for a new "computer monitor" is over. It is a little glossy and the color banding and screen tearing are clearly an inconvenience, but it should do just fine for me. I've been studying the little nuances of monitor and HDTV technologies for at least three years now. If I would calculate the time I "researched" for this purchase and factor in the average salary/wage, I would probably end up crying. Though I don't regret it. I always want to understand why something is a good purchase, so I can value it accordingly.
At some point (once the technology matures), I might re-purpose this into a dedicated TV, and see what's the current trend in the computer monitors.
I put my own setting values (with added notes and analysis) in the spoiler at the end of the post. If you have any question that weren't answered in the wall of text above, then feel free to ask them, I will try to answer them to the best of my knowledge.
Thank you and good night, everyone.
My own rig:
Intel Core2Duo E6400
Palit nVidia GeForce GTS250 512MB
2GB DDR2 RAM
Linux Korora 19 / Windows 7
(some old 19" HP CRT monitor)
DVI-to-HDMI cable used
================
Picture settings
================
Picture style: Standard (though can be anything, as it shouldn't have any hidden effects)
Backlight Contrast: 100 (affects PWM)
Colour: 60
Sharpness: 10 (0 for SD material)
Noise Reduction: Off (Can't see much of a difference, anyway)
MPEG artefact reduction: Off (Can't see much of a difference, anyway)
HD Natural Motion:
Off (if Computer/Game mode enabled, HDNM will be OFF by default)
Minimum/Medium/Maximum (for smoother video playback, opinions vary)
Clear LCD: Off (the manual promises miracles, though I can't see any concrete changes)
Advanced Sharpness: Off (while On, it actually makes red-text-on-blue-background even worse)
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Dynamic Backlight: Off (greatly affects PWM)
Colour Enhancement: Off
Light Sensor: Off
Gamma: 0
Colour Temperature: Normal
Video Contrast: 40
Brightness: 45
Game or Computer:
Off (no color banding, 100ms input lag)
Computer (color banding, 30-40ms input lag, clear/sharp text)
Picture Format: Unscaled (for 1:1 pixel compatibility)
Picture Shift: -
Note:
For better calibration test results, it seems that "Video Contrast" and "Brightness" are better to be set on 50/55.
Intel Core2Duo E6400
Palit nVidia GeForce GTS250 512MB
2GB DDR2 RAM
Linux Korora 19 / Windows 7
(some old 19" HP CRT monitor)
DVI-to-HDMI cable used
================
Picture settings
================
Picture style: Standard (though can be anything, as it shouldn't have any hidden effects)
Backlight Contrast: 100 (affects PWM)
Colour: 60
Sharpness: 10 (0 for SD material)
Noise Reduction: Off (Can't see much of a difference, anyway)
MPEG artefact reduction: Off (Can't see much of a difference, anyway)
HD Natural Motion:
Off (if Computer/Game mode enabled, HDNM will be OFF by default)
Minimum/Medium/Maximum (for smoother video playback, opinions vary)
Clear LCD: Off (the manual promises miracles, though I can't see any concrete changes)
Advanced Sharpness: Off (while On, it actually makes red-text-on-blue-background even worse)
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Dynamic Backlight: Off (greatly affects PWM)
Colour Enhancement: Off
Light Sensor: Off
Gamma: 0
Colour Temperature: Normal
Video Contrast: 40
Brightness: 45
Game or Computer:
Off (no color banding, 100ms input lag)
Computer (color banding, 30-40ms input lag, clear/sharp text)
Picture Format: Unscaled (for 1:1 pixel compatibility)
Picture Shift: -
Note:
For better calibration test results, it seems that "Video Contrast" and "Brightness" are better to be set on 50/55.
