Would or Have you ever bought a bike CAT C/D?

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IC3

IC3

IC3

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So has anyone ever bought a bike ABI Salvage category: D or C?
If yes, what did you have to do to make it road worthy?
How much did you save up on buying a salvage?
How much more is the insurance on a salvage bike? (Rough idea)

I'm looking at bikes and the price difference on some salvages compared to non-salvage is ridiculously big, I can do most of the fixes myself.
 
If you can do the fixes yourself and still save cash and you plan on keeping it till it dies of natural causes then why not save yourself some money, if you're worried about resale value then stay well away.
 
depends if the frame or forks are bent,idk if that comes under cat c/d (you would have to put it on a jig and see if it was out of alignment) could be dangerous handling/cornering wise

they do write off bikes at the blink of an eye nowadays,they can be put back on the road safely and cheaply with second hand parts
 
IIRC, Cat C/D basically means it's not economical to repair.
However, this assessment usually comes from the assumption of the insurance company hiring a professional mechanic to repair EVERYTHING, using only OEM parts.

My bike was a Cat C write-off last November. £3800 to repair.
A friend and I fixed it up for under £600, including purchasing the salvaged bike, using second-hand parts and doing the work ourselves (although he is a genius mechanic for a living anyway).
Insurance remained utterly unchanged.

If you know what you're doing and can get the parts, I say go for it!
 
By what you are all saying, I will be better off staying away from write off bikes. I want to spend 2 years on 125cc to gain some NCB years and then go on something bigger, I guess no point in buying salvage.

P.S
Is it possible to buy CG125 or YBR 125 for around 600? Its only for commuting so it doesn't have to be the newest/prettiest bike. I was looking at RS125 2009-2011, but they're quiet expensive and most of them are all scratched up...
 
IC3 said:
By what you are all saying, I will be better off staying away from write off bikes. I want to spend 2 years on 125cc to gain some NCB years and then go on something bigger, I guess no point in buying salvage.

P.S
Is it possible to buy CG125 or YBR 125 for around 600? Its only for commuting so it doesn't have to be the newest/prettiest bike. I was looking at RS125 2009-2011, but they're quiet expensive and most of them are all scratched up...
Click to expand...

I considered it but like you I don't plan on spending a long time on a 125 so rather than save a few hundred quid and then get spanked when it comes to sell it on I just bought a tidy one that will pretty much get me exactly what I paid for it when I come to sell it in 6 - 12 months.

You'll struggle to get anything less than £900, in much the same way small cars demand a premium because most first time drivers want one these bikes demand a premium because they're bomb proof and perfect for someone who's just passed their CBT.
 
tom_e said:
I considered it but like you I don't plan on spending a long time on a 125 so rather than save a few hundred quid and then get spanked when it comes to sell it on I just bought a tidy one that will pretty much get me exactly what I paid for it when I come to sell it in 6 - 12 months.

You'll struggle to get anything less than £900, in much the same way small cars demand a premium because most first time drivers want one these bikes demand a premium because they're bomb proof and perfect for someone who's just passed their CBT.
Click to expand...

Did you already buy a 125? If yes, which one (make&model)?
The insurance is so expensive, 3rd party 387, TPFT 513
Still playing around with the options to see if I can get it down, the price seems quiet high especially when my postcode is Cat B (low risk).
 
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get an older machine,the older usually = less to insure

you'll always pay high anyway when you first start out,avoid Italian/ and two strokes imo they simply don't last,the 2 stroke oil is expensive aswell (you might be ok if your not planning on keeping it long)
 
looks alright to me,you want to shop around a lot aswell for insurance

mce
bennetts
carol nash seem to be the best ones
 
wazza300 said:
looks alright to me,you want to shop around a lot aswell for insurance

mce
bennetts
carol nash seem to be the best ones
Click to expand...

Bennetts won't even do a quote for me, carol nash is double what I get on confused.com. I don't think I'll find cheaper insurance than 380 ;)
 
IC3 said:
Did you already buy a 125? If yes, which one (make&model)?
The insurance is so expensive, 3rd party 387, TPFT 513
Still playing around with the options to see if I can get it down, the price seems quiet high especially when my postcode is Cat B (low risk).
Click to expand...

Yep Yamaha ybr 10 plate paying £227 for tpft with 0ncd and no previous driving experience from rampdale.
 
My bike is a cat C, busy repairing it, with hopes of it being back on the road by the 14th of this month. Given the obscene pricing of genuine new Yamaha parts, I can understand fully why the bike and many other bikes are written off. The swing arm which was slightly scuffed up on the slide costs £600 to buy new from the cheapest place on line, the front nose cone costs £200. I would buy a Cat C/D bike provided I checked it out OK, and that I could insure it alright. Got paid market value for the bike, second hand parts are cheap enough, and I don't even think the bike is technically registered as a Cat C, so I'm looking at relatively cheap motoring until it dies.
 
Dependant on how it was written off, I wouldn't be fazed about buying a write off, as in if it was chucked up the road it wouldn't bother me at all, on the other hand if it was bounced off a car, that might give me some pause for thought. As long as the frame wasn't banana shaped ide be ok about it.
 
I would worry about any damage that wasn't immediately obvious, such as stress in the frame or suchlike. Also, it'd massive affect resale values, and I'd like to be able to change when the time comes with minimal hassle.
 
I'd happily buy a Cat C/D provided I could inspect it first and the saving was worthwhile. Bikes can be written off for absolutely negligible damage, e.g. a scratch on the frame because the parts are so expensive to replace. Anything with a mangled frame should be a Cat B, but I'd avoid something that's clearly had a hard impact into something.
 
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