2pac painting at home

jpaul

jpaul

jpaul

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1 Mar 2010
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Does anyone have advice on 2 pac epoxy paint for extra durability on exposed car chassis parts and probably bikes, too. ?
was it easy to mix in right proportions and apply with paint brush application, just smaller parts, and I don't have any means of spraying.

was considering EM121 EPOXY RUST PROOFING PAINT – NEW DARK GREY
on parts that had been primed with phospheric acid, and keyed.

painting would be outdoors and well ventilated, but maybe I should get

6300L Large Reusable Half Face Mask Respirator, 6000 Series, Low Maintenance​

3M™ Organic Vapour Filter 6059, ABEK1 for 6000 and 6500 series, 1PR/PK​

I understand cellulose thinners should work on the brushes.
 
Needs a Priest and a Pope.

20fdc1451bc3464ddeb8f7836b771721.jpg
 
OK - I'll look into that, superficially the COSH data sheet for the one I linked doesn't show isocyanate, which I had thought they all had, and was the dangerous ingredient,
the linked product page doesn't explicitly say whether it is compliant or not, but, perhaps they only sell compliant.
e: I also already have xylene thinners for old hammerite paints, that this cosh includes ... so it's not more malevolent


epoxy resin (MW ≤ 700) REACH #: 01-2119456619-26
EC: 500-033-5
CAS: 25068-38-6
≥25 - ≤50 Skin Irrit. 2, H315
Eye Irrit. 2, H319
Skin Sens. 1, H317
Aquatic Chronic 2, H411
[1]
Epoxy Resin (700<MW<=1100) CAS: 25036-25-3 ≥5.0 - ≤10 Skin Irrit. 2, H315
Eye Irrit. 2, H319
Skin Sens. 1, H317
[1]
xylene REACH #: 01-2119488216-32
EC: 215-535-7
CAS: 1330-20-7
Index: 601-022-00-9
≥1.0 - ≤5.0 Flam. Liq. 3, H226
Acute Tox. 4, H312
Acute Tox. 4, H332
Skin Irrit. 2, H315
Eye Irrit. 2, H319
STOT SE 3, H335
Asp. Tox. 1, H304
[1] [2]
Hydrocarbons, C9, aromatics REACH #: 01-2119455851-35
EC: 918-668-5
CAS: 64742-95-6
≥1.0 - ≤5.0 Flam. Liq. 3, H226
STOT SE 3, H335
STOT SE 3, H336
Asp. Tox. 1, H304
Aquatic Chronic 2, H411
EUH066
[1]
reaction mass of N, N'-
ethane1,2-diylbis(hexanamide)
and 12-hydroxy-N-[2-[(1-oxyhexyl)
amino]ethyl]octadecanamide and
N, N'-ethane-1,2-diylbis
(12-hydroxyoctadecan amide)
REACH #: 01-0000017860-69
EC: 432-430-3
CAS: SUB102035
Index: 616-200-00-1
≥1.0 - ≤5.0 Aquatic Chronic 4, H413 [1]
2-Propenoicacid,
2-ethylhexylester,
reactionproductswithethylenediamineethyleniminepolymer,compds.
withpolyethylenepolypropyleneglycolmonoBuetherphosphate
CAS: 398475-96-2 <1.0 Skin Irrit. 2, H315
Eye Irrit. 2, H319
Aquatic Acute 1, H400
(M=1)
Aquatic Chronic 1,
H410 (M=1)
[1]
Fatty acids, C14-18 and
C16-18-unsatd., maleated
REACH #: 01-2119978273-29
EC: 288-306-2
CAS: 85711-46-2
≤0.30 Skin Irrit. 2, H315
Eye Irrit. 2, H319
Skin Sens. 1B, H317
[1]
maleic anhydride

I'd assume 2-pac was formerly a robust graffiti artist, or was missing 4 pacs at birth, but the paint is always what he reminds me of.
 
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I've used the rust buster epoxy paint. It's good, but takes ages to fully harden/dry and I found it brittle in certain circumstances. Good for impacts, but I had chunks chip off when eg tightening a bolt up against it.

I weighed it to get the proportions right and applied it by brush. It becomes quite difficult to brush more quickly than youd expect as it thickens up when the hardener gets to work and the thinner evaporates.
 
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unfortunately not the class of a chevy impala.

jellybeard999 said:
I've used the rust buster epoxy paint. It's good, but takes ages to fully harden/dry and I found it brittle in certain circumstances. Good for impacts, but I had chunks chip off when eg tightening a bolt up against it.

I weighed it to get the proportions right and applied it by brush. It becomes quite difficult to brush more quickly than youd expect as it thickens up when the hardener gets to work and the thinner evaporates.
Click to expand...
thanks - ages to harden doesn't sound good , I expected as quick a turnaround like powder coating, likewise if painting in summer shade may limit working time.
- Did you go for a respirator ?
 
jpaul said:
unfortunately not the class of a chevy impala.


thanks - ages to harden doesn't sound good , I expected as quick a turnaround like powder coating, likewise if painting in summer shade may limit working time.
- Did you go for a respirator ?
Click to expand...
I was painting outside so no, I didn't bother. I wasn't spraying it and I was only doing small amounts at a time.

If you check the table at the bottom of the link you shared in the op, it quotes 7 days to fully cure. It's a chemical reaction, rather than drying, so as long as it's above the recommended temperature (i.e. not winter) it shouldn't matter too much re shade etc.

To be fair, the curing time is common to all epoxy paint. None cure in hours as far as I know, they're all measured in days.
 
I have 2k raptor epoxy primer and 2k raptor tintable bed liner to go over the top which I will be doing my Celica with.

I think it was around £40 for a litre. Mix 4 to 1 with hardner.

The mask you need is by Gerson which will protect you from the nasty stuff in the hardner and is the only thing on the market outside of a respirator that will. I would also buy full spray suit, goggles and gloves even if applying by hand as 2k is nasty stuff.

If you have access to cheap portable convector radiators that will help the hardner go off in no time. You ideally need around 55 degrees for paint to go off quickly in about an hour.
 
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Thanks yes raptors another option, since I want grey/silver would also need that 2nd bed liner coat (versus rustoleum), which makes application more difficult but second coat improves resilience&uv protection

third option : two layers starting with white jotun 87 winter grade primer, looks like it reduces drying time
& existing heat gun I have, seems like it could help cure on smaller surfaces.

[

jotun 87
https://shop.chastheboat.co.uk/prod...-j87w-b-1?variant=39900839116858&gad_source=1


image.png

]
 
preparation - first venture into silicon carbide stripping versus steel / brass-coated wire brush

haven't decided on paint yet, will probably put some phosphoric acid primer in interim.

53917105137_2f923ce4e6_b.jpg
 
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