306 ICE project stage 2

355F1512TR

355F1512TR

355F1512TR

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Since I finished Stage 1 (Pioneer DEH77MP and some Rockford Fosgate comps) about a year ago, I figure it's now time for stage 2, which is an Amp and small (probably 10") sub. Only one problem - being French, my doors rattle like mad even with the comps only powered by the HU.

I've been browsing CAD and the range of deadening is pretty confusing. Anyone know what I need to be looking at???

Cheers
 
or save yourself a packet and get the same sort of thing from wickes etc for 1/5th of the price, Price of dynamat is extortionate and all the max flower lads are stupid enough to pay it.......... and even that roller i have a Tooling mag infront of me here and exactly the same roller is £2.99 in that. I am planning to sound deaden my whole car next summer ready for when i do my install with the car pc (currently making a fibreglass housing for the screen)
 
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Brown Bread is OK, get about a roll for each door. Make sure to clean the door with alcohol before applying to get rid of any grime for a better stick.

Questions:

What comps did you put in? Linky?
How did you get them in? My pug 306 has very little speaker depth.
How are you amping the fronts?
Sub / Amp - budget?
 
Malachy said:
or save yourself a packet and get the same sort of thing from wickes etc for 1/5th of the price, Price of dynamat is extortionate and all the max flower lads are stupid enough to pay it.......... and even that roller i have a Tooling mag infront of me here and exactly the same roller is £2.99 in that. I am planning to sound deaden my whole car next summer ready for when i do my install with the car pc (currently making a fibreglass housing for the screen)
Click to expand...

Is that the flashing? Does it work well? Cause well i work at Wickes so i get 20% off aswell. ;)
 
If you use flashing tape you will need around 4 layers to have the same effect as proper sound deadening like dynamat / BB / etc.

Keep that in mind. Personally i'd never go near flashing tape.

If you do go for flashing tape Aquaseal is the brand you're after.
 
Vanilla - I used some of these
to get the extra depth required, but even then I had to modify them slightly to get the width required. Bit of a botch, I'll probably make my own MDF spacers sometime. Oh, it says non-electric window models only on the site, but they didn't interfiere with mine, maybe depends on the year, mine's a phase 2.

Not sure of the exact model of comps. All I know is that they went for about £160 on CAD at the time and they are Rockford Fosgate. I had originally ordered some co-axials that were about 50 quid less, but I wasn't complaining when these turned up instead :D

I haven't thought about what Amp/Sub I'll be putting in there yet, want to get the sound proofing done first. No point sticking more power through the fronts yet when they already rattle my doors off their hinges! However, if anyone has some suggestions, they would be welcome. I want to spend no more than £200 really on sub/amp/wiring. The amp would need to be capable of amping both fronts and sub.

Due to the type of music I listen to, I'm after a setup that will give me nice punchy bass rather than huge rumbling. Doesn't need to be excessively loud, just need a little more depth to the sound. Perhaps 10" is best for this?
 
www.deadmat.com I got a massive 25' by 2.5' roll for about 45 quid if I remember correctly. Exactly the same as dynamat (alu backed stuff). Works really well, my doors sound like mercedes doors when they close now.
 
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